Does an island need to be fixed to the floor?

[saveasteading]

Kitchen island going in now, using a fitter. I would like to screw the feet down, as we have one that moves if leant against.

But the new one is bigger, heavier and has plumbing so probably won't move.

The ufh pipes are omitted at the area.

 

Screw into 40mm screed? Or maybe stick it down with silicon or tape?

 

[Conor]

No need to fix down once you get worktops on and fill the cupboards.

[dpmiller]

a bead of gripfil around some of the feet, if you must...

[torre]

Our last kitchen came with a fix down bracket for the island and adhesive. 

 

If you've a lot of pan drawers on one side and a narrowish island then I'd say definitely. Less important if it's wide and cupboards below

[Nickfromwales]

I just bond a 2x2 to the floor and the bottom of the end panels, x2 minimum, using cheap silicone so it’s easy to remove if you want to. 
 

There’s too much play in the legs to fix just a couple of those. 

[saveasteading]

Thanks all. The feet look better on this (Howdens) than the moving one* (benchmarx) and it is much bigger. I'm just thinking... one chance / shouldn't stress or rely on the plumbing.

 

*It slides when leant on, then the legs snap or break off the base, then the kickboards have no support. 

 

I'll add some sticky stuff and have another look at it overall.

[Nickfromwales]

27 minutes ago, saveasteading said:

Thanks all. The feet look better on this (Howdens) than the moving one* (benchmarx) and it is much bigger. I'm just thinking... one chance / shouldn't stress or rely on the plumbing.

 

*It slides when leant on, then the legs snap or break off the base, then the kickboards have no support. 

 

I'll add some sticky stuff and have another look at it overall.

Lifting the legs up one at a time, and then setting them back down again into a blob of CT1 (10p piece sized is fine) will be ample over the number of legs. 
 

I’d say you’d be fine doing this with just the front legs, so easy to do / easy to reverse without going commando on your belly. 

[saveasteading]

1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said:

easy to reverse without going commando on your belly. 

Not a pretty sight. And then there is getting out again.

How did I know it would be CT1? Or Snibbo as it used to be called.

[Nickfromwales]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Not a pretty sight. And then there is getting out again.

How did I know it would be CT1? Or Snibbo as it used to be called.

1) Fit and forget

2) Never let me down

3) Tried and tested

 

CT1 or Ever build Stixall, which I think is the same stuff / different packaging, but as we realised on site 2 weeks or so ago, Ever build stuff is a 1/3 of the price if you hunt it down online; ergo I’m 2 of 3 boxes of EBSA down, 1 to go.

 

I failed to put up an argument for CT1 for bulk mastic work (such as topping up where the Norrsken fitters left off), but for the wetroom shower former / waste / trap etc I won’t use anything other than CT1; as I am employed by clients to do things, I cannot (point blank refuse) to compromise on stuff that my names going on (plus I am obvs then liable for too).

 

As principal consultant I could not, however, offer any good reason to use CT1 on the many large doors and double height gallery windows etc, as there was (still remains) a huge volume of ‘goop’ that is anticipated to be needed to complete that specific task, so calculated bean-counting had to be on the table for discussion.