Levelling Compound in Drain !

[Spinny]

On 15/05/2026 at 14:04, saveasteading said:

It may be better to gently grind than use filler. It looks pretty good.

You are needing smooth rather than level.

 

On 15/05/2026 at 15:44, Nickfromwales said:

if it’s pretty good then maybe just a rub with a carborundum block may suffice, vs additional feathering with another compound. 

 

Have been too busy to comprehensively examine the whole floor - it is actually quite difficult to measure what is where as there seem to be some gentle level changes only in different directions. Levels look subtly different in dofferent directions. The worst point I found seems to be a high area which the level rocks on. So maybe that one would benefit from being rubbed, ground, or sanded in some way. How does that process normally work and will it produce clouds of dust all over my kitchen cabinets and appliances (being fitted from tomorrow) ?

 

Other questions I have are how long to wait before turning the under floor heating on, and how long to wait before any LVT goes down. The thickness of the latest layer of leveller - Bostik 955 Advanced - is up to 12-14mm. I gather the coumpound can take 7-14 days to fully harden. Drying can be slow but can't be accelerated. Leave the heating off for at least a week, then water temp only 15C and very gradually increase. So begins to feel like I should wait maybe 3-4 weeks or longer before LVT ?

(Although that said was hoping to get some LVT in the appliance bays this week ??, as the kitchen fitters will want to slot them right in now)

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

A couple of oscillating desk fans left on to blow across the floor will help a lot.

 

LVT is usually click lock, so you can’t randomly pre-insert sections, this needs to all go down in one hit. 

[saveasteading]

8 hours ago, Spinny said:

will it produce clouds of dust all over my kitchen cabinets

If you do it manually you can prevent dust. The screed is usually quite soft so it doesn't need a machine. You can get on hands and knees and use a brick. And it can be dampened first.

 

How much would be coming off,  and how thick would the remainder be?

[Spinny]

I have been propping the front door and bifolds open when I can to get a through draft.

It is Amtico spacia, so butt jointed and glued.

[Nickfromwales]

6 minutes ago, Spinny said:

It is Amtico spacia, so butt jointed and glued.

You'd still need to set out the whole floor, to get the joints / lines to marry up? Not seen the pattern or style, so it's difficult for me to reply 100%.

[Spinny]

1 minute ago, saveasteading said:

How much would be coming off,  and how thick would the remainder be?

Well one place seems to have a bit of a rise and fall creating a rocking point for a spirit level - maybe 3mm higher than the neighbouring areas at its peak.

 

There is another area that seems to rise about 5mm over a meter as you move towards the wall..

 

It is Bostik SL C955 advanced. Will it get harder to grind down when it is fully hardened.

 

There is plenty there, as it is around 10-14mm thick at one end and maybe 8mm at the other. (that is just the top coat)

[Spinny]

6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

can’t randomly pre-insert sections

Well they are telling me they can put some in the appliance bays - hidden under the appliance. Then when they lay the rest of the floor, cut the floor strips to meet what is in the appliance bay. It is a wood oak effect finish.

[Nickfromwales]

1 minute ago, Spinny said:

hidden under the appliance

Then it's not a problem.

[Spinny]

102mm wide by 940mm long strips. About 2.5mm thick.

 

https://grosvenor-flooring.com/product/amtico-spacia-featured-oak/