Great_scot_selfbuild Posted yesterday at 19:11 Posted yesterday at 19:11 This feels a bit high - what’s the opinion here? Just before receiving this, I’ve been looking at running the pipework from plant room to the end points, then this came in (I’m now definitely considering running the pipework myself). Approximate scope: First fix plumbing pipework install. Only installing a mains connection point in the plant room (leaving the UFH / DHW / ASHP to others). 260sqm, 4 bed house with kitchen sink, dishwasher, freezer with water/ice dispenser, downstairs WC, washing machine, family bathroom & 2 en-suite. Doesn’t include bathroom installation (just pipes to the correct positions in the wall). Labour cost £2,750.00 for all pipe installation (not bathroom install) Materials cost £1,780.00 For all materials as above based on 28mm copper main to plank room plus fittings and stop cocks plus 22mm hep2o pipe and fittings for the hot and cold runs with 15mm hep 20 and 15mm copper spurs. Also, isolation valves to toilets, sinks, bath and showers. Thoughts? Experience elsewhere?
crispy_wafer Posted yesterday at 19:42 Posted yesterday at 19:42 If you have the time and inclination then it’s doable, work out the pipe runs to minimise crossovers and interference from other services if space is tight, go buy rolls of said pipe and clips to keep it tidy and go for it. Many of us have trod this path, and history shows that we do like a good plumbing thread if you are so minded to let others have their 2p worth. Biggest minor issues are how to bring the pipe work tidily into plant room if having individual runs, you can end up with 20 or so individual pipes. And the various wall plate elbows and terminations at the end point. I’m not sure it’s 4 and half grands worth of work in total, but in this day and age where labour costs mucho money then I’d diy it.
Great_scot_selfbuild Posted yesterday at 20:00 Author Posted yesterday at 20:00 16 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said: If you have the time and inclination then it’s doable, work out the pipe runs to minimise crossovers and interference from other services if space is tight, go buy rolls of said pipe and clips to keep it tidy and go for it. Many of us have trod this path, and history shows that we do like a good plumbing thread if you are so minded to let others have their 2p worth. Biggest minor issues are how to bring the pipe work tidily into plant room if having individual runs, you can end up with 20 or so individual pipes. And the various wall plate elbows and terminations at the end point. I’m not sure it’s 4 and half grands worth of work in total, but in this day and age where labour costs mucho money then I’d diy it. @crispy_wafer thanks - we do like some of the more doable DIY and are in need of controlling the budget, so doing this is very much worth our time! I also think I am more focussed on tidy routing of services…
JohnMo Posted yesterday at 20:16 Posted yesterday at 20:16 59 minutes ago, Great_scot_selfbuild said: based on 28mm copper main to plank room plus fittings and stop cocks plus 22mm hep2o pipe and fittings for the hot and cold runs with 15mm hep 20 and 15mm copper spurs. Also, isolation valves to toilets, sinks, bath and showers. My comments 22mm main run for DHW, will take an utter age to get hot water out the tap. You really want a manifold system. Mine is DHW cylinder - 15mm to manifold central location, then from manifold 15mm run to each wet room and spur from there. No comment on price 2
Nickfromwales Posted yesterday at 21:26 Posted yesterday at 21:26 22mm backbone is fine if there’s a hot return. Otherwise, just painfully slow to get hot water from basin taps. Avoid.
FarmerN Posted 14 hours ago Posted 14 hours ago Our kitchen sink is far corner of house to DHW cylinder, half run in 22mm pipe, can nearly fill a washing up bowl before hot arrives. Manifold system sounds good to me.
Great_scot_selfbuild Posted 9 hours ago Author Posted 9 hours ago 4 hours ago, FarmerN said: Our kitchen sink is far corner of house to DHW cylinder, half run in 22mm pipe, can nearly fill a washing up bowl before hot arrives. Manifold system sounds good to me. @FarmerN sorry - what do you mean by ‘half run’?
FarmerN Posted 9 hours ago Posted 9 hours ago 1st half of the pipe length is in 22mm before going down to 15 mm.
Oz07 Posted 6 hours ago Posted 6 hours ago If you have manifold close to hot water tank then presumably could use big pipe to manifold?
Nickfromwales Posted 5 hours ago Posted 5 hours ago Nobody series plumbs anymore, that I know, as it’s just inefficient and introduces bucketloads of hidden joints. 👎. “Radial ‘til I die”.
marshian Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Nobody series plumbs anymore, that I know, as it’s just inefficient and introduces bucketloads of hidden joints. 👎. “Radial ‘til I die”. When I re-do my downstairs circuit I'm still going to "reverse return" the flow and returns from all the rads ie FIrst Rad "flow" is last Rad "return" etc
Nickfromwales Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago Just now, marshian said: When I re-do my downstairs circuit I'm still going to "reverse return" the flow and returns from all the rads ie FIrst Rad "flow" is last Rad "return" etc You have way too much spare time mate. 😅
Oz07 Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 30 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Nobody series plumbs anymore, that I know, as it’s just inefficient and introduces bucketloads of hidden joints. 👎. “Radial ‘til I die”. What does that mean put in layman's terms
marshian Posted 4 hours ago Posted 4 hours ago 43 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You have way too much spare time mate. 😅 I need another hobby 1
JohnMo Posted 3 hours ago Posted 3 hours ago 33 minutes ago, Oz07 said: What does that mean put in layman's terms Series - long pipe from cylinder to last service off take, intermediate user tees off the long pipe. Generally all tees and other joints hidden in the building fabric. Radial, pipe from cylinder to manifold (with or without isolation valves) pipes go direct from manifold to user point. No hidden joints in the building fabric. A hybrid of this, is a radial system to each wet room and then in room go series.
Oz07 Posted 3 hours ago Posted 3 hours ago 39 minutes ago, JohnMo said: Series - long pipe from cylinder to last service off take, intermediate user tees off the long pipe. Generally all tees and other joints hidden in the building fabric. Radial, pipe from cylinder to manifold (with or without isolation valves) pipes go direct from manifold to user point. No hidden joints in the building fabric. A hybrid of this, is a radial system to each wet room and then in room go series. Ah I understand i had manifold in last place worked well. If your cylinder is in airing cupboard and you have a separate utility/ plant room i suppose you'd have hot manifold in ac and cold in utility/plant?
Nickfromwales Posted 3 hours ago Posted 3 hours ago 1 hour ago, Oz07 said: What does that mean put in layman's terms Point to point, multiples of continuous pipe from A - B, with a pipe for bath hot, a pipe for bath cold, a pipe for shower hot, another for shower cold, another for WC cold, another for sink hot, and cold, and so on until the whole house is plumbed. Each fed from a hot manifold and a cold manifold, so every individual pipe can be isolated independently for service. 2 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Ah I understand i had manifold in last place worked well. If your cylinder is in airing cupboard and you have a separate utility/ plant room i suppose you'd have hot manifold in ac and cold in utility/plant? I put them in the same place to simplify plumbing.
Spinny Posted 3 hours ago Posted 3 hours ago (edited) Yep I wish I had had this approach. Unfortunately like 99% of non-plumbers, and possibly 50%(?) of actual plumbers, had never heard of it. Likewise had never heard of hot return. Trouble is these things require more pipe length being run. Many domestic plumbers are never going to do it or offer it. They have quoted the job, now they, or the builder they are working for, want to maximise profit by minimising materials, not spend it buying the customer a manifold and putting in an inch of extra pipe. Find a mass market builder that does this type of plumbing - I bet they don't exist. Edited 2 hours ago by Spinny
JohnMo Posted 2 hours ago Posted 2 hours ago 17 minutes ago, Oz07 said: Ah I understand i had manifold in last place worked well. If your cylinder is in airing cupboard and you have a separate utility/ plant room i suppose you'd have hot manifold in ac and cold in utility/plant? My manifold is in the centre of the house cylinder at one end, just have 15mm pipe between the two. 14 minutes ago, Spinny said: Unfortunately possibly 50%(?) of actual plumbers, had never heard of it But that is just a sad reflection of the low skill levels in the UK and zero focus on professional development.
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