Maths for working out door thickness vs clearance etc?

[YodhrinForge]

The modern enshittified search engines are worthless and just keep spitting out the same endless "hurr durr normal interior doors are between blah blah blah" nonsense no matter how I phrase this question so hopefully someone here has actual experience.

 

I want to build(or modify) a side-hinged 1/3-2/3 garage door because it seems like the choices on offer either don't meet the specs I want(all "insulated" garage doors seem to be the exact same set of ~40mm foam/aluminium composite panels no matter which company is selling them, which is woefully insufficient for a year-round-use workshop conversion) or are wildly expensive premium custom jobs, but what I don't have the knowledge to work out is exactly how thick I can make the final doors so they aren't colliding when I try to open them, or what potential relief angles I might have to incorporate. I'm aware the hinges have some impact on it but there must be a rule of thumb I can at least begin planning the project around.

[Oz07]

Generally 57mm is the thickest standard joinery. You can use a 3deg cutter in a 1/2" router for a leading egde

[Russell griffiths]

How cold is it where you are ?

I’ve built my workshop very well with high levels of insulation, I installed one of the 40mm panel doors, it’s pretty shit and I’m unimpressed for the cost. 
but the workshop isn’t cold, it sits at around 13-14 degrees all the time a simple fan heater for 15mins and it’s up to 16 -17 which is plenty for me doing woodwork stuff. 
it feels loads colder than the house but it’s not unpleasant to be in if working. 

[Nickfromwales]

Insulation means zero if there’s a draught.

 

As said, I use a pair of £15 2kw fan heaters, in increments of 1x 1kw, 1x 2kw, and then fire up the second to the max of 4kw of space heating. 6m x 3.6m totally uninsulated ‘shed / workshop’ and the last 1m x 3.6m (partitioned off) is my desk / pc / printer and man sanctity zone.

 

All the cost and faff of insulating it wasn’t high in my list as I only use it sporadically, or for planned days of Teams meetings with clients etc, and within 5-10 mins the space is plenty survivable.

 

If I’d have made the metal profile roof roof less draughty then I expect it would require even less heat, but hey-ho! Does what I need it to.

[craig]

Side hung garage door panels are usually 40mm, sectional garage doors can be 60mm. If you need any assistance, drop me a message. Remember that a good triple glazed door would be supplied with a panel or glass at circa 48mm (not including entrance style doors). 

[YodhrinForge]

Hi thanks for the replies but as I said I'm not really interested in the standard sizes, which I know are inadequate for what I want to do, but in the actual method of how the sizes/clearances are worked out so I can figure out something custom. I should probably have described the general plans to illustrate why: externally the garage will be clad in rigid insulation(probably high density rockwool or rigid wood fibre) then rendered, internally I will be building a "room-within-room" stud wall arrangement with a small air gap between it and the existing single block skin with a vapour control membrane on the back wall-facing side and flexible medium density rockwool between the studs on which will be fixed a double layer of 18mm ply for the interior face; the existing flat roof will be replaced with a timber framed pitched roof(primarily to carry solar panels) clad externally with PIR/aluminium composite panels and partially filled internally with more medium rockwool and lined with acoustic plasterboard with dampened washers. It will have a mini MVHR system with maze vents and I also intend to damp seal and insulate the concrete floor. There will be no glazing anywhere.

 

I want to have a workshop for wood and metal work I can use year-round in comfort, all day and into the evening if I want, and without disturbing my neighbours(one elderly lady, one family with a young girl, and two doors down a nursery) hence all the effort to reduce noise - ignoring the door with my planned buildup you could stand a couple of metres away from a box with someone inside using a metal saw to cut steel and struggle to hear anything at all. A standard door whether just steel skinned or composite foam panel would make most of that effort pointless, I need to be aiming for something more like 100mm thick with significant mass and layers of different materials to improve its ability to absorb different frequencies of sound plus a frame that allows for a double or triple seal. If the maths of it isn't widely known I guess I'll just have to make little mockups and experiment.

Edited 11 hours ago by YodhrinForge