Today's heat pump install questions!`

[MikeSharp01]

 

Making progress we are but have a couple of questions.

 

1. Can we install the fill / flush valve:  outside by the heat pump, much easier to get at if we can, just needs good insulation around it and I guess I will still need a filling loop inside to pressurise the cicuit.
2. Each of the UFH loops have a control valve at the bottom and flow meter at the top which way do the control valves work, unscrew to open or screw down to open. The rep from the company did not know but their technical guy has yet to get back to me, thought there is bound to be an expert here somewhere.
3. Do I need Non return valves (NRVs) in the return circuits, UFH and Cylinder, before they re-join to go back to the Heat Pump, I can't see why I would but I saw somewhere doing it.

 

 

[JohnMo]

28 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Can we install the fill / flush valve:  outside by the heat pump

I wouldn't - you need to insulate well - not an easy job. If you are running glycol they are useful (but why would you) if not they are not needed.

 

29 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Each of the UFH loops have a control valve at the bottom and flow meter at the top which way do the control valves work, unscrew to open or screw down to open. The rep from the company did not know but their technical guy has yet to get back to me, thought there is bound to be an expert here somewhere.

Thought you were running an open system, if don't bother installing at all. The control valves push pin down to close off loop. The flow meter screw out to increase flow.

 

31 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Do I need Non return valves (NRVs) in the return circuits, UFH and Cylinder, before they re-join to go back to the Heat Pump, I can't see why I would but I saw somewhere doing it

No, your 3 port valve does that job for you.

[MikeSharp01]

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

I wouldn't - you need to insulate well - not an easy job. If you are running glycol they are useful (but why would you) if not they are not needed.

Thanks, how do you put inhibitor etc in, no Glycol.

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

Thought you were running an open system, if don't bother installing at all. The control valves push pin down to close off loop. The flow meter screw out to increase flow.

We are but the manifold went in before we chose to go that way, only three loops no independent control of the loops other than by the flow meters which once set are left.

1 hour ago, JohnMo said:

No, your 3 port valve does that job for you.

That is what I thought.

 

[JohnMo]

17 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Thanks, how do you put inhibitor etc in, no Glycol.

I used an express can direct in to the normal filling loop. Adey MC1+ Rapide.

 

Just remove the actuators and put back on the decorator caps. You unscrew them anti clockwise to remove.

 

 

[SimonD]

2 hours ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Can we install the fill / flush valve:  outside by the heat pump, much easier to get at if we can, just needs good insulation around it and I guess I will still need a filling loop inside to pressurise the cicuit.

 

As per @JohnMo, not outside. I do however always install them on a new installation, just next to the cylinder on thd return before the mag filter/strainer close to the filling loop. That way I can connect my thorough flush kit within a moment as you ideally need to flush the system twice, once with old heating system in place (if you have one) and then after installation and the system has run warm for a while. 

 

You can get them here https://naturalgreenheat.co.uk/product/bastion-28mm-fill-and-flush-valve/  at under 20 quid.

 

I used to always install a couple of ball valves on tails in an accessible position on flow and returns until I recently found that some idiot plumber had used them to pipe in a new radiator in a bathroom and used the one on the mains to supply cold to the same bathroom!