The Car Port

[Jenki]

1 hour ago, ProDave said:

I was wondering how it worked.  If on 29th July they decide mine needs some work, I was hoping it would not go away immediately as that would be the rest of the camping season buggered.  Even if they supplied another pickup as a loan vehicle it would not have the electrics and tie down points needed to use it with the demountable camper.

 

Or had yours been for the inspection before 15th April?

 

I keep hearing stories of the truck being away for months, which would be fine if it was after October.

I think I first went mid Oct, it was 13 early December so needed to go in. I had to do some welding on inner sills, weld the DPF, and needed to change the Sump, as I'd already fixed with some plastic metal. Then just waited until I got the call early Feb. It went down and they failed it on a wheel bearing and a loose CV boot. So I brought it back fixed it and dropped it off in April

[ProDave]

1 hour ago, Jenki said:

and needed to change the Sump, as I'd already fixed with some plastic metal.

I keep hearing that.  Do you really mean the engine sump that holds the oil in the bottom of the engine?  I have never heard of an engin sump rusting through.  OR do you mean the sump guard, as in that usually rusty metal plate put there under the engine to protect it from knocks off roading?

 

Mine is only 10 years old so well inside the window and I was told it was the date it was logged into the process that mattered not how old it is when any work is done.

[Jenki]

On 17/06/2026 at 22:09, ProDave said:

I keep hearing that.  Do you really mean the engine sump that holds the oil in the bottom of the engine? 

Yep the engine sump, rotted from out to in, went in the lower corner that I fixed with plastic metal, but it was rough in several places. When I contacted Parks, he mentioned that this was a major area of concern, and suggested that it was replaced before inspection, as they would.more than likely fail it anyway if there was any sign of leaks. The clutch was ready for replacement, glow plugs intermittently errored, and timing belt was due, so I took out the engine replaced what was needed, cleaned up some rust in the engine bay and sent it for inspection.

[ProDave]

Thanks for that.

 

Back to the car port.  The final "test" today, demount the camper under the car port.  This involves jacking it up on it's legs clear of the truck then driving the truck away, this lifts it higher than in normal use and I had to be sure I had built it high enough to allow this.  And yes I have.

 

 

S next job, start looking at roof coverings.  It measures 602cm wide and 584 cm front to back.  Suggestions welcome.

[saveasteading]

2 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Suggestions welcome.

Standard single skin steel cladding and the right screws for timber.

There will then be considerable wind uplift so check the fixings to the posts. 

Likely to need some L brackets.

 

I think I'd leave a gap at the house wall and just let the weather through.

[ProDave]

The posts are each fixed to the ground with two M10 rawl bolts into the concrete base, and the garage side additionally bracketed to the garage wall.  I can't see what more I can do to hold it down.

[saveasteading]

9 minutes ago, ProDave said:

do to hold it down.

I meant beam to post.

 

[ProDave]

The bottom of each post sits in a bracket like this, bolted down into the concrete.

 

 

And at the top, each post attaches to the structure with 4 coach screws through into the post, and then two M12 threaded rods drilled right through with a nut and big washer each side.

 

 

Now I know the height is okay the tops of the posts will now be cut off.