Foundations & Drains

[Spinny]

A couple of queries regarding foundations and drains - see pics.

What is best practice and what is acceptable practice for fixing broken clay drain pipes ? (What would building control expect ?)

Pipe in pic one has a hole, and part of the collar on another piece of pipe has broken off. Pic shows current repair (which may perhaps be temporary)

I now have concrete on my land, can this be cut back/removed, and if so when is the best time to do it ?

 

Edited September 18 by Spinny

[-rick-]

Not answering your question but looks like a good job on the boarding. Did you do it in the end?

[saveasteading]

29 minutes ago, Spinny said:

fixing broken clay drain pipes ? 

Have your neighbours broken them?  You should get a formal proposal for the repair and have it supervised by their building inspector. Clay pipes are still available so a like for like replacement is better than repair.

Alternatively there are adaptors from clay to plastic, and a plastic pipe could be inserted. 

 

34 minutes ago, Spinny said:

concrete on my land, can this be cut back/removed,

That is trespass. 

The best time to remove it is now, before it reached full strength. Concrete gets hard in a few hours but increases in strength for about  a month. Doing it asap will be easier and cause less damage to the foundation.

 

Are you allowing them to work from your side?  nothing should cross the boundary line so a wall on that line is likely to have  a fascia at the top which will cross it. ie the wall should be set back.

 

 

[saveasteading]

I've just realised that you are the correspondent who distrusts science on principle, and purveyors of knowledge and expertise, as you think they always seek personal advantage. You may therefore prefer to disregard my advice , in case I have links to the pipes manufacturers,  or the construction industry in general.

 

[Spinny]

saveasteading - cor blimey, I just consider it a healthy scepticism/realism developed over 60 years. TBH people on a forum don't generally have a commercial interest to push. I value experienced input but reserve the freedom to politely discuss or disagree with anyone. Ever had a misdiagnosis from a medical professional ? I have but it doesn't mean I disbelieve anything and everything a medic tells me. People are only human even experts, even moi.

 

I sincerely thank you and appreciate your input.

Edited September 18 by Spinny

[Mr Punter]

It is tricky doing any groundwork near clay pipes.  I would replace with plastic.  Regarding the concrete you will need to cut it back before it cures, so this evening or early tomorrow.

[Spinny]

Builders have gone for the day, and won't return until monday now.

Annoyed because I went out this afternoon to find the trench wider and the kerbing removed in that section in the photo. I am told some of the trench side collapsed today and so they decided to remove the section of kerbing - presumably to avoid the risk of it falling into their concrete pour. At that point the concrete lorry arrived. I made the point that they were now putting concrete onto my land, was told they could cut it back later and  to please move back away from the trench/work area. Then they filled the trench.

Annoyed because clearly they could have knocked on the door and told me about the trench problem earlier in the day but must have deliberately chosen not to.

I have already written to the neighbour (currently away) stating they may not build on or over my land. They are making a 40mm setback only for an alu capping on top of the wall.

Yes they have access to my land to do the work under a party wall award.

[Spinny]

1 hour ago, -rick- said:

Not answering your question but looks like a good job on the boarding. Did you do it in the end?

No. They did it, and yes a good job done, content with it. It is only possible because I don't have roofline fascia's on yet and of course it will now prevent that, or even measuring up, for many weeks. They have had to screw into my edge timber.

[Spinny]

A walk behind concrete saw ?

[Spinny]

Grateful for any further views or advice on this. 

Clearly I cannot remove any concrete and have no means to do so, and it has now been going off for 16 hours. I am waiting to hear back from the builder, who has previously said he doesn't work on site on friday's.

[saveasteading]

Where it is surface only, an inch or so, first a simple tap with a hammer and skinny spillover bits may break off.

Next a run down the line with a masonry saw to an inch or so deep then the hammer tap.

Anything that goes deeper is better left alone.

[Spinny]

Builder is saying it is because kerbing at edge collapsed in on the day of the pour and had to be removed. Says trench is therefore angled out to the top of the concrete. Also says stones in the side of the trench broke out when digging out the edges. Therefore when he is back on Tuesday he plans to mark the boundary line down the top of the concrete with a string line and angle grinder, and then cut down and breakaway the angled edge with the expectation this will fix the problem.

 

I appreciate trenching is not a millimetre activity, and shuttering would presumably have meant digging out on my side.

 

However he could have raised this with me when it happened of course and chose not to. 

 

I suggested a walk behind concrete cutter but he was not interested (My guess because that would cost money).

 

Pic of trench just before pour.

 

Wondering whether I should be seeking some restitution in the form of an addition to the PW Award stating owner of my property has the right to join any future boundary foundation into the one he is putting in ? Not quite sure how such an agreemnt would have to be formalised - PWA, Deeds, letter, covenant etc ? Also wondering whether a structural engineer and/or BC need to be brought in to make a formal statement about the structural integrity of the cut back foundation ?

 

Any more input very welcome from all the good peoples on this forum.

[Mr Punter]

4 hours ago, Spinny said:

I suggested a walk behind concrete cutter

 

These are better for flat surfaces like floors or tarmac.  No good in a trench.

[saveasteading]

what the builder has told you all makes sense. a shutter would have been tidy but has a thickness so he would have dug out more of your side. then when removed there would have been  a gap to fill.  Better with the concrete as it is not undermining your property.  The issues are small but annoying, other than the cheek of building right on your line, and then just beasting on without discussion. all a normal though.

 

Note the pegs in the trench sides.... that's what I was suggesting in another post recently, as level control. If the poster is seeing this, it is a good example of just how approximate the process is.... this is control yet will be rather approximate. Maybe that is just a guide and he put a level on it.

[Spinny]

Pegs were put in by measuring down from a laser level line I believe.They had to keep the concrete below the drainage pipes, otherwise I think they would have poured higher.

[Spinny]

48 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

 

These are better for flat surfaces like floors or tarmac.  No good in a trench.

Online photos seem to show the cutting wheel mounted at the side, so I imagined you could just walk it along the top of the foundation to cut on one side by walking in the appropriate direction. Top of the foundation is flat and level.

[saveasteading]

11 minutes ago, Spinny said:

foundation is flat and level.

Not flat and level enough. It's meant for floor slabs, roads etc. On  anything rougher it will wobble about and the blade will jam.

[Gone West]

13 hours ago, Spinny said:

Online photos seem to show the cutting wheel mounted at the side, so I imagined you could just walk it along the top of the foundation to cut on one side by walking in the appropriate direction. Top of the foundation is flat and level.

You could always get a big bugger like this, to show you mean business.   This was my raft being cut up after a crap installation.

 

[saveasteading]

57 minutes ago, Gone West said:

my raft being cut up

Was there a discussion on BH? I'd be interested to see it.  A date or other reference?

[Gone West]

1 hour ago, saveasteading said:

Was there a discussion on BH? I'd be interested to see it.  A date or other reference?

It was fifteen years ago and it was in my blog at the time. So as not to derail this thread I'll start a new post with the blog details.

 

[Spinny]

And how damaging is concrete dust please ?

If it is going to be cut by the builder seems likely to generate copious clouds of dust which will settle on our doors, windows, cladding, render, single ply roof, car etc ?

[saveasteading]

30 minutes ago, Spinny said:

copious clouds of dust 

They will only be cutting out a thin bit at the top, and with a hand held grinder. If the concrete is wetted beforehand  the dust will settle adjacent.

 

 

You appear to be a worrier. These things are minor. The builder seems to be competent. Relax.

[Mr Punter]

2 hours ago, Spinny said:

And how damaging is concrete dust please ?

If it is going to be cut by the builder seems likely to generate copious clouds of dust which will settle on our doors, windows, cladding, render, single ply roof, car etc ?

 

He may be using a petrol disc cutter with a hose attached.  Quick and no dust.

[Spinny]

Builder plans a 32mm coping and is building 40mm from the boundary.

What are the chances of building a 7m by 4m wall without deviating by 8mm on the front face ?

[Mr Punter]

36 minutes ago, Spinny said:

What are the chances of building a 7m by 4m wall without deviating by 8mm on the front face ?

 

Should be fine with a string line especially as they know it is important to you.