How best to cable for Washer and Dryer ?

[Spinny]

I plan to put a w/machine and dryer alongside each other in a utility room. They will be under a worktop but not integrated. There will be a wall cupboard above the worktop. There will be one double power socket above the worktop and appliances.

 

Sparky originally advised there was no need for any fused spurs or remote switch, a double socket could be installed under the neighbouring sink unit and the appliances plugged in there.

However the more I now think about this the less I like it - appliance cables may not be long enough - may restrict pulling an appliance out - will restrict under sink cupboard space - not good if integrated appliances are fitted later etc.

 

What is the best or normal layout of sockets, spurs, switches etc for this situation ? Do I need to put some more cables up and down the wall now before the plasterer gets there ? Put switches inside the wall cupboard ?

 

Thanks.

[Super_Paulie]

ive put a single plug on the ring in the neighboring unit. Single socket so nothing else can be plugged in the other side, its solely for that individual appliance. I defo wouldnt use a double socket for 2 thirsty devices at the same time. You could split the ring where it is and add in a cable between the new 2 single sockets.

 

If the cable isnt long enough then you could use an unswitched socket directly behind the appliance and that switch running from an isolator elsewhere convenient. Thats what i was going to do, but turns out the cupboard next door was always applicable for me. 

[Kelvin]

Socket behind each appliance fused switch above the worktop. The utility room is wired back to the CU. In fact nearly  all our rooms are wired individually back to the CU. 
 

To confuse the future owner of our house the fridge in the open plan kitchen has its socket behind it and the fused switch is in the utility room. 

Edited July 31 by Kelvin

[Nickfromwales]

If you have the plug behind the appliance then you'll need to pull that out to change the fuse, so if these are integrated appliances defo put a single socket in each adjacent cupboard and make life easier/fit & forget. 

36 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said:

I defo wouldnt use a double socket for 2 thirsty devices at the same time. You could split the ring where it is and add in a cable between the new 2 single sockets.

Same I did.

[Spinny]

Pictures...

 

Silver circle is approx position of waste pipe to come through the wall from the u/stairs basin. Silver square approx location of water pipes to go through the wall to the basin.

two wooden sticks show approx position of the washer bay and the dryer bay extent.

Cables down wall are switched live and live for switch in the wall cupboard for the extractor fan.

So need to 'solve' routing for the plumbing and for electrical sockets for the washer and dryer - drain is located underneath the sink.

I think a grid switch to turn the washer and dryer sockets on/off somewhere would be nice - would have to come off the ring main ? A washer seems to be up to around 2.5kw or 11A, and a dryer either 12A for a condenser or 4A for a heat pump.

Do people still use a stand pipe for the washer plumbing, or directly connect it into a waste pipe to the drain ? And should the same waste pipe be used for washer and the u/stairs basin ? waste pipe would occasionally block with gunge on our old one.

[Spinny]

 

Still wooden head scratching on this one.

 

Came up with this proposal, but now I find some manufacturers put the water inlet in the top corner where I thought to put the washer unswitched socket.

 

Is there any 'safe zone'/'unfouled' area anywhere behind a washing machine that the manufacturers respect where you can site a socket and plug ?

 

Without chasing into the single course brick wall, will have 25mm surface box (half covered with 12mm wet plaster, then  a cover plate and plug seems to add another 30mm. This then totals 13+30 = 43mm mm clearance from the plaster line required - machine is 600mm - so the minimum would seem to be say 650mm deep worktop. And only that if I can find a socket position that doesn't foul with the drain hose or the inlet hose or the top cover, or the back of the drum.

 

[Mike]

I'd put the sockets in your 'sink cupboard', so you need no additional depth behind the machines. It's what I'm doing and I only have a 350mm width unit below my sink to squeeze everything you have into (plus the waste & overflow from a water conditioner).

 

If the appliance cables aren't long enough - they probably will be - then replace them (or get your sparky to).

[dpmiller]

WMs generally have a bit of overhang on the rear of their "worktop", the actually chassis is a bit shallower...

[Spinny]

6 hours ago, Mike said:

I'd put the sockets in your 'sink cupboard', so you need no additional depth behind the machines.

Not keen on this for the washing machine because it then means if you need to pull the washing machine out you have to take the plug out first under the sink, then somehow fish the plug back from under the sink to behind the washer before you can pull it out - bearing in mind you have no access behind the dryer or behind the washer. So you end up having to pull the dryer out first just to get the plug across to pull the washer out.

 

33 minutes ago, dpmiller said:

WMs generally have a bit of overhang on the rear of their "worktop", the actually chassis is a bit shallower...

Increasingly not the case as they seem to keep increasing the drum size to increase capacity by both - extending the drum backwards as far as possible - and extending the drum forwards by pushing the front loading door forward so it sticks out well beyond the supposed 60cm machine size. Marketing madness.

 

Areas with a recess seem inconsistently positioned and often taken by the manufacturer to run a hose or site their own connections. It is a maddening thing.

[Kelvin]

We fitted a slightly deeper worktop and moved the cabinets out very slightly too which took up some of the extra depth of the washing machine reducing it sticking out which also meant we didn’t need to try and push as far back as possible. It helped that we had the washing machine on-site before buying the utility room cabinets and work top so were able to put it in place then plan around it. 

[Super_Paulie]

as you have the 2 appliances side-by-side you are going to still have to remove the hoses if you need to pull one out, so its not a huge difference to have to pull the plug out as well as the hoses.

Id personally have the 2 single sockets under the sink. If you are worried about pulling the plugs for whatever reason then cut the plugs off and hard-wire to 2x FCU's and then all you have to pull through will be a skinny cable.

As for the plumbing i went a standpipe with a sealed top per appliance. Seems to work just as well as an open top one to be fair but there are no chances of any leaks from an overflow. I have noticed it makes an "air bomb" noise when emptying into the trap, but im happy with it. If this is a utility room then id probably just put both hoses into spigots from the sink and close the door. Im open-plan, so need it quiet. 

[Mike]

1 hour ago, Super_Paulie said:

as you have the 2 appliances side-by-side you are going to still have to remove the hoses if you need to pull one out, so its not a huge difference to have to pull the plug out as well as the hoses.

This.

 

Also, when you push the machine back in, you don't have a cable looping on the floor and getting in the way of the wheels - you can pull it through from under the sink.

 

Edited August 12 by Mike

[Spinny]

50 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said:

I have noticed it makes an "air bomb" noise when emptying into the trap

Presumably needs an air admittance valve added in somewhere ?

That looks amazingly neat and trim with grommets etc you must have a tidy plumber.

 

For the washing machine hose I am thinking to put a fixed drainage pipe in the washer bay, to run across behind the dryer, and into the undersink cabinet to the sink drainage pipework. Then the drain hose could attach to that directly behind the washer leaving the flexible hose slack for pulling out.

 

I am going to put a socket behind each appliance running to a grid/FCU under the sink.

 

I have other pipework going onto the same wall to pass through the wall and supply the u/stairs toilet basin taps and waste. So I think there is too much going on in that area to rely on pulling wires, plugs or hoses through two bays. And of course you cannot pull anything except by sliding the washer forward and using the fixings into the machine to pull the wires/hoses across. Bound to get snagged up and end up turning a 5-10 minute slide the machine out to check a possible leak into 2+ hours of messing about disconnecting and pulling the dryer out too to hand feed stuff through etc. with much cursing when(if) I get to 70 years old.

 

 

 

 

 

[Super_Paulie]

i couldnt get a plug behind my machines unless they are way down at floor level, my machines are like 5mm from the wall when pushed home.

[Super_Paulie]

3 hours ago, Super_Paulie said:

I have noticed it makes an "air bomb" noise when emptying into the trap, but im happy with it. If this is a utility room then id probably just put both hoses into spigots from the sink and close the door. Im open-plan, so need it quiet. 

i took guidance from @Nickfromwales so i dunno, any thoughts Nick? i assume when the machine discharges its airtight in the standpipe so has to push that air out. Only noticed it when its on the drying cycle, cant confirm it does the same on the washing cycle so im guessing its pushing hot air through the waste. Can easily remove the spigot and just push the hose in, but id like to understand.

 

When it exists the cabinet it goes directly into the stack.

Edited August 12 by Super_Paulie

[Spinny]

I will make the worktop deeper to around 650mm.

I am conscious this encroaches on floor space in the room, and makes it increasingly more difficult to reach over 650mm of worktop plus another 200mm of window reveal to reach the window handle and then push open the window.

 

Generally what I am finding is that you can plan your dimensions at the architect/design stage - but when you get to build everyone wants you to give up space. 1. Nothing is ever built 1mm larger than plan, but is often built 20-100mm smaller than plan. 2. then trades want to 'dot & dab' and board everything with 15mm of mortar on every wall 3. lintels get misaligned and protrude 8mm 3. Window installers want to allow 6-8mm on every side 4. Other installers want to allow 30mm packers at each end 5. Chippies want to 'batten things out' and don't want to rip things to size etc etc. Before you know it square feet leach away, books won't fit on bookshelves, etc etc. It is a constant battle to limit the impacts.

[Super_Paulie]

it really seems like its complicating matters and losing space for no real gain. It'll work for sure, but id prefer the space not be lost behind a cabinet and the socket in a neighbouring unit, its pretty standard stuff. Good luck to ya.

[Nickfromwales]

On 12/08/2025 at 13:35, Super_Paulie said:

i took guidance from @Nickfromwales so i dunno, any thoughts Nick? i assume when the machine discharges its airtight in the standpipe so has to push that air out. Only noticed it when its on the drying cycle, cant confirm it does the same on the washing cycle so im guessing its pushing hot air through the waste. Can easily remove the spigot and just push the hose in, but id like to understand.

 

When it exists the cabinet it goes directly into the stack.

 Not sure I’ve had that issue, but maybe we have and just nobody’s highlighted it or was bothered by it. 
 

I guess try it with the connection removed and with the discharge hose down to the bottom of the trap, so the end is submerged, and give it a test drive.

[Super_Paulie]

17 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

 Not sure I’ve had that issue, but maybe we have and just nobody’s highlighted it or was bothered by it. 
 

I guess try it with the connection removed and with the discharge hose down to the bottom of the trap, so the end is submerged, and give it a test drive.

i'll see if i can capture it in a recording. Doesnt bother me to be honest, its just a sound that id never heard before with an open-ended standpipe.