Nickfromwales Posted July 9 Posted July 9 Ah, pyramid roof no gable end wall....? First pic I saw up top, I thought was a gable. Still doable with some steelwork or a bloody good chippy, assuming a dual cylinder platform could be formed to sit on the masonry wall. Depends on how badly you want the accumulator, as the minimum I'd recommend without pumps is a 300L. To be honest, these are the kinds of jobs I used to love doing, especially when someone told me it can't be done . 1
Nickfromwales Posted July 10 Posted July 10 3 hours ago, saveasteading said: Gasp. They built that brick to support the roof? Purlin, or purlin struts have to sit on something that connects the roof to the founds? This is normal.
saveasteading Posted July 10 Posted July 10 2 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: This is normal. I mean the single brick on edge and simple (minimal)? contact of purlin to brick. Any tiny movement will rock that brick. All I'd suggest is 2 bricks instead of one, laid flat, and a timber sole plate. 1
Nickfromwales Posted July 10 Posted July 10 1 minute ago, saveasteading said: I mean the single brick on edge and simple (minimal)? contact of purlin to brick. Any tiny movement will rock that brick. All I'd suggest is 2 bricks instead of one, laid flat, and a timber sole plate. Being a pyramid roof, linear movement is unlikely. Most purlin struts I've seen have been a max 100mm wide timber, sat on a single skin masonry wall. Next to zero dynamic movement here other than wind-shear, so doubt it's an issue.
Nickfromwales Posted July 10 Posted July 10 41 minutes ago, saveasteading said: and simple (minimal)? contact of purlin to brick. Yes, I'd improve that with a cut timber, birds-mouthed to accept the purlin so the flat side of the timber rested on the final laid course of brickwork, but I expect this has been there for multiples of decades without a single issue.....
saveasteading Posted July 10 Posted July 10 18 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: multiples of decades without OK I have misunderstood and thought it was new. 1
Gus Potter Posted July 10 Posted July 10 (edited) On 05/07/2025 at 12:10, Wolfman310 said: Need some advise regarding the following please… It would be a good idea to get an SE in to have a look at this. One thing that you need to look out for is when you muck about with the roof you can change the load paths on the floors below / any old beams and so on. This can become an issue. As a domestic Client you have a good bit of protection under the consumer protection act, the building regulations, CDM regulations and the HSE act 1974. Write to Oso and say that in the interests of fairness it would be appropriate to get a independent opinion. Say you are seriously concerned about the safety of the structure and give them 48 hours to respond. Point out that you have observed excessive deflections. Do this right away, don't delay! I agree with the other posters.. It does not look rosy as things stand and seeing the standard of workmanship gives me concern in terms of safety. You need to take the long view. At some point you will want to sell the house so best to get all your ducks in a row. Edited July 10 by Gus Potter 1 1
Nickfromwales Posted July 10 Posted July 10 7 minutes ago, Gus Potter said: It would be a good idea to get an SE in to have a look at this. One thing that you need to look out for is when you muck about with the roof you can change the load paths on the floors below / any old beams and so on. This can become an issue. As a domestic Client you have a good bit of protection under the consumer protection act, the building regulations, CDM regulations and the HSE act 1974. Write to Oso and say that in the interests of fairness it would be appropriate to get a independent opinion. Say you are seriously concerned about the safety of the structure and give them 48 hours to respond. Point out that you have observed excessive deflections. Do this right away, don't delay! I agree with the other posters.. It does not look rosy as things stand and seeing the standard of workmanship gives me concern in terms of safety. You need to take the long view. At some point you will want to sell the house so best to get all your ducks in a row. OSO should concede and take full ownership of this (hopefully isolated) feck up. Would be good if they do this with the least amount of resistance. There's zero argument of like for like, or "there was one there before, we just replaced it" as the cylinder is larger than the original therefore it is a new and unique undertaking. 1 1
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 Hi all, so way of an update. Apologies for the slow reply, full on at the minute with going on holiday. No call back at close of play from Oso on Thursday, so before I left on holiday Friday morning emailed them as it had been two days. They chose to respond with a statement they didn’t realise they had a timeframe, and disappointingly they are adamant and keep pushing it back to the subby who did it all in the first place and have a view he should fix the mess he created. I asked for the original design and calculations that had been undertaken but they ignore this. I also asked on what criteria they can say it’s OK for the short term, also ignored. I think it is obvious they just tried to wing it. oso view is the sub contractor will do whatever is required to resolve, but I think Oso should take ownership and fix. I think I should push it out to a structural engineer at Oso cost to come up with the design that they install to take the weight. The main guy from Oso is on holiday so has just left it to the subby to pick up when I am back from holiday. the lack or urgency and accountability from Oso is really poor.
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 On 10/07/2025 at 23:24, Gus Potter said: It would be a good idea to get an SE in to have a look at this. One thing that you need to look out for is when you muck about with the roof you can change the load paths on the floors below / any old beams and so on. This can become an issue. As a domestic Client you have a good bit of protection under the consumer protection act, the building regulations, CDM regulations and the HSE act 1974. Write to Oso and say that in the interests of fairness it would be appropriate to get a independent opinion. Say you are seriously concerned about the safety of the structure and give them 48 hours to respond. Point out that you have observed excessive deflections. Do this right away, don't delay! I agree with the other posters.. It does not look rosy as things stand and seeing the standard of workmanship gives me concern in terms of safety. You need to take the long view. At some point you will want to sell the house so best to get all your ducks in a row. On 10/07/2025 at 23:24, Gus Potter said: It would be a good idea to get an SE in to have a look at this. One thing that you need to look out for is when you muck about with the roof you can change the load paths on the floors below / any old beams and so on. This can become an issue. As a domestic Client you have a good bit of protection under the consumer protection act, the building regulations, CDM regulations and the HSE act 1974. Write to Oso and say that in the interests of fairness it would be appropriate to get a independent opinion. Say you are seriously concerned about the safety of the structure and give them 48 hours to respond. Point out that you have observed excessive deflections. Do this right away, don't delay! I agree with the other posters.. It does not look rosy as things stand and seeing the standard of workmanship gives me concern in terms of safety. You need to take the long view. At some point you will want to sell the house so best to get all your ducks in a row. Thanks. I will email them tonight and explain I want an independent to view and design the frame so they know what they are doing. they can’t be trusted.
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 On 10/07/2025 at 13:31, saveasteading said: OK I have misunderstood and thought it was new. 1950’s bungalow and is all original this section 👍🏻
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 On 09/07/2025 at 20:42, Nickfromwales said: Ah, pyramid roof no gable end wall....? First pic I saw up top, I thought was a gable. Still doable with some steelwork or a bloody good chippy, assuming a dual cylinder platform could be formed to sit on the masonry wall. Depends on how badly you want the accumulator, as the minimum I'd recommend without pumps is a 300L. To be honest, these are the kinds of jobs I used to love doing, especially when someone told me it can't be done . Yeh, sorry, pyramids all over! happy for you to complete if you want a challenge. LE10 on the edge of Leicestershire/coventry has its perks, a custard cream painted 1950’s bungalow and in need of someone competent!!
Nickfromwales Posted July 14 Posted July 14 1 minute ago, Wolfman310 said: Yeh, sorry, pyramids all over! happy for you to complete if you want a challenge. LE10 on the edge of Leicestershire/coventry has its perks, a custard cream painted 1950’s bungalow and in need of someone competent!! lol. Yea, done projects near Melton Mobrey and Lutterworth, one coming up possibly in Northants, so I do get around 🙃. See if OSO offer to put it all right, and explore options to make the plinth big/strong enough to take that plus an acc’r . If you get proper stuck let me know.
Nickfromwales Posted July 14 Posted July 14 14 minutes ago, Wolfman310 said: Hi all, so way of an update. Apologies for the slow reply, full on at the minute with going on holiday. No call back at close of play from Oso on Thursday, so before I left on holiday Friday morning emailed them as it had been two days. They chose to respond with a statement they didn’t realise they had a timeframe, and disappointingly they are adamant and keep pushing it back to the subby who did it all in the first place and have a view he should fix the mess he created. I asked for the original design and calculations that had been undertaken but they ignore this. I also asked on what criteria they can say it’s OK for the short term, also ignored. I think it is obvious they just tried to wing it. oso view is the sub contractor will do whatever is required to resolve, but I think Oso should take ownership and fix. I think I should push it out to a structural engineer at Oso cost to come up with the design that they install to take the weight. The main guy from Oso is on holiday so has just left it to the subby to pick up when I am back from holiday. the lack or urgency and accountability from Oso is really poor. That’s quite shit. Didn’t spot this reply, so ignore my last. The bottom line is, you paid OSO so your contract/agreement is with them. They decided to feck you over by giving the job to a 3rd party contractor so they need to fix this. Reply to apologise regarding the timeframe, and say “you’ve got 7 days to respond with a plan to rectify before I look to seek losses via the courts. There’s your timeframe, you bellends”. Shocking way to treat you to be honest, and you’d probably have been better off using a good local plumber and probably would have been cheaper and better. Ffs. 1
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 40 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: lol. Yea, done projects near Melton Mobrey and Lutterworth, one coming up possibly in Northants, so I do get around 🙃. See if OSO offer to put it all right, and explore options to make the plinth big/strong enough to take that plus an acc’r . If you get proper stuck let me know. How interesting, I went to school in Lutterworth. I live just down the A5 by Hinckley so definitely doable and by in-laws are in Northants. once this is resolved if I can get the platform/plinth strong enough opens up the options to get an accumulator and/or pump. just emailing them telling them they should want to pay for a structural engineer in any case so they can be assured it is acceptable. Be interesting to see what they say. they really are utter shit 1
Wolfman310 Posted July 14 Author Posted July 14 40 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: That’s quite shit. Didn’t spot this reply, so ignore my last. The bottom line is, you paid OSO so your contract/agreement is with them. They decided to feck you over by giving the job to a 3rd party contractor so they need to fix this. Reply to apologise regarding the timeframe, and say “you’ve got 7 days to respond with a plan to rectify before I look to seek losses via the courts. There’s your timeframe, you bellends”. Shocking way to treat you to be honest, and you’d probably have been better off using a good local plumber and probably would have been cheaper and better. Ffs. Just saying that too actually so is a good point, paid Oso, it is their problem, they have accepted the install whether they want to accept it or not.
saveasteading Posted July 14 Posted July 14 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: giving the job to a 3rd party contractor so they need to fix this. They meaning Oso ? For clarity.
Nickfromwales Posted July 14 Posted July 14 1 hour ago, saveasteading said: They meaning Oso ? For clarity. I mean, if someone pays my company to do a job, and I take a profit and hand the change to a 3rd party contractor, I am still 100% responsible for that job being kosher. OSO is the company that is responsible here, as they took the clients money. What they did with that money afterwards is neither here nor there as far as a warranty claim is concerned. 1
Wolfman310 Posted July 19 Author Posted July 19 So, dealing with Oso was hard work again, but have finally got them to agree to cover the cost of a SE and will reimburse me on completion. The quote includes, Site inspection, beam design, deck design, and drawings, for £750+vat and they are visiting on Friday. Originally they agreed for a SE but then stipulated for a SE assess the existing platform which was pointless as they have accepted they have caused the issue. on another note, can start to think about what comes next. Nick. Do you have a brand of choice for an accumulator and pump at all? once everything all done and fixed. The platform will be suitable for everything so can start looking at this too and then come back to you. I wanted to say thanks to everyone for input, and comment. I hope it shows a record for others in the future that even companies you may expect to get things right don’t. 1
saveasteading Posted July 19 Posted July 19 I would hope that the brief includes that the remedial work, design and works, when finished, are not apparent in any way. In any future sale, a surveyor should not see any signs of problems, however well sorted structurally and functionally.
Nickfromwales Posted July 20 Posted July 20 On 19/07/2025 at 16:25, Wolfman310 said: Do you have a brand of choice for an accumulator and pump at all? You may not need a pump, and I’d avoid installing one with every fibre of my being. A lot of the plumbing would need to be altered to suit, needs a lot of planning / survey etc, and I’d need to know the static and dynamic pressure and flow rates you have there now before advising you on what kit to fit. Lots of people have these fitted and don’t get an improvement, because they’ve overlooked vital stages etc.
Wolfman310 Posted July 21 Author Posted July 21 Thanks Nick. Trying to understand what my issue is and the reasoning behind it, first principles almost. I need to check tomorrow morning and I think the biggest issue is the en-suite the other end of the bungalow has a bad shower in the morning. It’s rather noticeable how bad it is versus at other times. so I got my cheapo weir cup, and cheapo pressure gauge out and got the following at 3.30pm today. Incoming water pipe was replaced a year ago for a new 25mm blue PE. Severn Trent state they expect circa 2.9Bar from the nearest logger they have. water comes in and straight in to 22mm copper up in to loft and hot water cylinder. Pressure Pressure standing = 2.9/3Bar. Kitchen Cold Tap on. Pressure drops to 1.9Bar. Bathroom Sink Cold on. Pressure also drops to 1.9Bar Both kitchen cold tap on and main bathroom sink cold tap on. Pressure drops to between 0.9/1.2bar. Water flow Kitchen Cold tap = 10/12Ltr Kitchen Hot Tap = 10/12ltr Both On = 20/22ltr Main Bathroom Sink Cold Tap = 10/12ltr Main Bathroom Sink Hot Tap = 10/12ltr Both on = 16/18ltr Bathroom Bath Cold Tap = 16/18ltr Bathroom Bath Hot Tap = 14/16ltr Both on = above 22ltrs En-Suite opposite end of the bungalow Sink Cold Tap = 11 ltrs Sink Hot Tap = 11 ltrs Both On = 20ltrs En-suite shower when on jet function and temperature you shower. 10/12ltrs. Same whether out the head of the tube directly. Turn on cold tap in en-suite and shower drops to 7/8 on jet function and out of the tube. the shower is the best it gets, will check tomorrow morning at 7am what flow and pressure as everyone on the road uses you can tell. For instance turning up the shower head now the water would hit the ceiling, in the mornings you are lucky if it reaches 2feet in height. Deciphering is the fun bit. 1
Nickfromwales Posted July 21 Posted July 21 6 hours ago, Wolfman310 said: Thanks Nick. Trying to understand what my issue is and the reasoning behind it, first principles almost. I need to check tomorrow morning and I think the biggest issue is the en-suite the other end of the bungalow has a bad shower in the morning. It’s rather noticeable how bad it is versus at other times. so I got my cheapo weir cup, and cheapo pressure gauge out and got the following at 3.30pm today. Incoming water pipe was replaced a year ago for a new 25mm blue PE. Severn Trent state they expect circa 2.9Bar from the nearest logger they have. water comes in and straight in to 22mm copper up in to loft and hot water cylinder. Pressure Pressure standing = 2.9/3Bar. Kitchen Cold Tap on. Pressure drops to 1.9Bar. Bathroom Sink Cold on. Pressure also drops to 1.9Bar Both kitchen cold tap on and main bathroom sink cold tap on. Pressure drops to between 0.9/1.2bar. Water flow Kitchen Cold tap = 10/12Ltr Kitchen Hot Tap = 10/12ltr Both On = 20/22ltr Main Bathroom Sink Cold Tap = 10/12ltr Main Bathroom Sink Hot Tap = 10/12ltr Both on = 16/18ltr Bathroom Bath Cold Tap = 16/18ltr Bathroom Bath Hot Tap = 14/16ltr Both on = above 22ltrs En-Suite opposite end of the bungalow Sink Cold Tap = 11 ltrs Sink Hot Tap = 11 ltrs Both On = 20ltrs En-suite shower when on jet function and temperature you shower. 10/12ltrs. Same whether out the head of the tube directly. Turn on cold tap in en-suite and shower drops to 7/8 on jet function and out of the tube. the shower is the best it gets, will check tomorrow morning at 7am what flow and pressure as everyone on the road uses you can tell. For instance turning up the shower head now the water would hit the ceiling, in the mornings you are lucky if it reaches 2feet in height. Deciphering is the fun bit. Good, so you're not got the very worst of problems there to be honest. I defo think an accumulator, and no pump, would get you over the line. Pumps add ballache, and need replacing, so KISS imho. Remember, if you want super-fast flow rates and a shower which exfoliates you then that potential has to come from somewhere. My 2 cents is be happy with a sufficient shower experience, ditch the pump idea, and just go for the uplift that a 300L acc'r will provide. I have had fantastic results adding a simple 300L or 500L acc'r into a domestic residence, and swear by them. The good news is you can fit the acc'r and trial it, see how that goes, and then add the pump set retrospectively if you think you need it. I'd say 99% sure that you don't/won't
Wolfman310 Posted July 22 Author Posted July 22 Cheers Nick. like you say, nothing too major a problem, isn’t terrible, a little help could be all the difference so will ditch the pump idea and look towards an accumulator only. Shall go read some more on the Stuart Turner Mainsboost. They seem expensive compared to the equivalent from global water solutions for instance, is it a case of get what you pay for on these? The morning peak seems to impact by a few ltrs, I think that morning peak demand is significant and is what I see most before going out to work. Do you think pipe work will need playing with? Thanks for all your time.
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