flanagaj Posted June 1 Posted June 1 I am trying to put together a door and window schedule and am struggling to understand whether for a 2.4m high ceiling, I need to limit the height of the frames to a standard size. I don't want them to look too oversized or cause an issue with regards to lintels, so I was thinking that 2.1m would be a suitable size. I suspect that as we are going timber clad, they just manufacture to what ever size you want and there is no 'standard' size.
Iceverge Posted June 1 Posted June 1 You'll want lintel, the depth of these depends on your construction and spans. Then you'll want some curtains etc above the windows. 100mm would be minimum but 300 would be more usual
crispy_wafer Posted June 2 Posted June 2 I set all mine on stud walls to be 2.1m high rough, after 25mm floor covering, and 35mm frame and 10mm gap at bottom, there is plenty of room…. To be honest for a standard door i probably made them too tall, but, the remaining gap is nothing that wont be covered with architrave. Door openings is something I should have asked more questions about rather than bumbling through, as it confused me greatly. 1
Super_Paulie Posted June 2 Posted June 2 im onto door linings now and i took advice from someone on here, i forget who now, but i got one of the doors and built the linings around it, which allowed me to get exactly 2mm clearance all round. Then i simply removed the door to attach after plastering. Long winded but i know the door will fit bang in the lining when the time comes. 2
crispy_wafer Posted June 2 Posted June 2 38 minutes ago, Super_Paulie said: im onto door linings now and i took advice from someone on here, i forget who now, but i got one of the doors and built the linings around it, which allowed me to get exactly 2mm clearance all round. Then i simply removed the door to attach after plastering. Long winded but i know the door will fit bang in the lining when the time comes. good idea, can you talk us through the method as this is one of those jobs where having a good repeatable method pays dividends, especially when 9/10/11 doors to play with
flanagaj Posted June 10 Author Posted June 10 (edited) I am now contemplating actual floor to ceiling patio doors. I think these look really nice. The only question I have is around how you go about having a blind. I assume it has to be concealed in the ceiling void? Edited June 10 by flanagaj
Super_Paulie Posted June 10 Posted June 10 On 02/06/2025 at 14:42, crispy_wafer said: good idea, can you talk us through the method as this is one of those jobs where having a good repeatable method pays dividends, especially when 9/10/11 doors to play with missed this notification, apologies. What i do is: lay the door down on a sheet of PIR or something similar to protect it lay out the header and the the jams/uprights around it, all my jams are the correct height from the off so thats not a concern. Make sure any bowing wood has the bow pointing inwards towards the door Use 2mm plastic shims on the header/door top and immediate sides. Mark off and route out the rebate if its out. Glue and screw in, this gives you the exact 2mm gap either side at the top put the frame into the rough opening, as it is the correct height already, i use a laser and secure one of the jams in the rough opening with packers so i know its bang on put the actual door into the opening, shim off the deck until you get the 2mm gap at the top and shuffle it across to the secured jam and pack that out with 2mm as well. Can use a batten to stop the door falling or have a helper secure the header shim out the far side with 2mm packers and record how deep the shims are at each location. Remove the door screw in the far jam with the shims recorded above works for me, no doubt it is not the best way to do it and you do need the door to do the above. I guess you could just do it by measurements but i like to see the actual door in there so i know its going to be close. 1
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