Annker Posted April 14 Posted April 14 (edited) I have a wall to suspended floor junction to seal and wondering if anyone can recommend a specific tape for it. As usual there appears to be a multitude of options available. The tape will be located well behind floor and wall finished surfaces so it need not be plasterable, however the wall has received a parge coat and is unevenness so perhaps some additional tube if sealant will be required. Pro Clima Contega Solido SL seems like it could be an option perhaps other less expensive options would be suitable. TIA for any recommendations. Edited April 14 by Annker
Annker Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 Just wondering if anyone can comment on EDPM performing as an air tightness tape/layer? I've used Illbruck EDPM membranes and associated adhesive for various external waterproofing details and found it to be a useful and adaptable solution. Its not the prettiest of solutions but for this detail aesthetics don't matter so it seems in my mind it may be a good option.
haythorn_1 Posted April 14 Posted April 14 not sure either of those are certified for airtightness. Probably would work but not been tested for it. For most tapes you need to use a primer on parge coat as it tends not to stick well. There are some exceptions that can go direct but they tend to be more expensive. I have been using a combo of me315 or PHS Modbau Internal Airtight Window Tape depending on whether I need it plasterable or not. Works out at ~£20 for 25m
Nickfromwales Posted April 14 Posted April 14 @Annker What are you trying to seal up in that picture? If you're planning to tape the top of those metal hangers then what about the gap on the other side of them? I think you'd be better off with a foam (FM330) here and get it in from the underside and over the top and down, to fully encapsulate the steel hanger where it is cut into the wall.
Annker Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 1 hour ago, haythorn_1 said: not sure either of those are certified for airtightness. Probably would work but not been tested for it. For most tapes you need to use a primer on parge coat as it tends not to stick well. There are some exceptions that can go direct but they tend to be more expensive. I have been using a combo of me315 or PHS Modbau Internal Airtight Window Tape depending on whether I need it plasterable or not. Works out at ~£20 for 25m Surely the Pro clima tape is certified for air tightness, AFAIK thats is their specific sector. The Illbruck and adhesive definitely is not a certified, its just a combination that I've had good success weatherproofing with, and rightly or wrongly extrapolating it would provide an air tight barrier at in this instance.
Annker Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: @Annker What are you trying to seal up in that picture? If you're planning to tape the top of those metal hangers then what about the gap on the other side of them? I think you'd be better off with a foam (FM330) here and get it in from the underside and over the top and down, to fully encapsulate the steel hanger where it is cut into the wall. Its a suspended timber floor inaccessible below. The build-up is similar to a warm roof build-up. (X-section below) The plan was to run a tape or strip of membrane say 3" along the plywood floor and 3" up the wall sealing any air coming up the perimeter of this room. Edited April 14 by Annker 1
Nickfromwales Posted April 14 Posted April 14 Then defo foam it all and let the foam ooze a little to the top. Leave to cure and cut back with a sharp knife or saw, with the cut benched up a little to leave you something to seal to. Wet the area thoroughly with a brush and some 50/50 PVA/water solution and install the foam whilst that is wet (it helps the foam to stick and also allows the PU (moisture cure) to cure without voids etc). Then get some brush on Passive Purple liquid airtight membrane; speak to Adam White of Intelligent Membranes to check if it's worth priming first, but IIRC you can apply that straight to the parge and the plywood. Use a sponge and clean water to rub any residual dust / contaminants off the plywood, do a good job of this, and then use a bit more of that PVA solution to size the plywood (leave it to dry this time). Use a good few coats of the PP where it crosses the foam and sits on the plywood, and leave to dry thoroughly before each following coat. It's really good stuff! 1
crispy_wafer Posted April 14 Posted April 14 I foamed with soudal foam and then ran a sticky internal window tape round the perimeter of my first floor junction, then parged over the top. 1
Iceverge Posted April 14 Posted April 14 That wide fit masonry tape is bungabunga party expensive. Cut a strip of normal airtight membrane, apply a bead of airtight sealant onto the ply floor and staple the membrane down over the top making sure the bead is continuous. Apply a thick bead to the wall then and press the membrane in place. A sausage tube will go a long way for £9. 1
Iceverge Posted April 14 Posted April 14 51 minutes ago, Annker said: The Illbruck and adhesive definitely is not a certified Don't get too hung up on certified. Long term flexibility and dimensional stability is what you're after. Look for a product that doesn't shrink or harden over time. 1
Iceverge Posted April 14 Posted April 14 Just reason back on Nicks suggestion. It's a good one. I just used a dilute solution of the airtight paint (soudal) as a primer. Going in with a neat first coat resulted in it not sticking very well unless everything was clean room decontaminationed.
Annker Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 40 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Then defo foam it all and let the foam ooze a little to the top. Leave to cure and cut back with a sharp knife or saw, with the cut benched up a little to leave you something to seal to. Wet the area thoroughly with a brush and some 50/50 PVA/water solution and install the foam whilst that is wet (it helps the foam to stick and also allows the PU (moisture cure) to cure without voids etc). Then get some brush on Passive Purple liquid airtight membrane; speak to Adam White of Intelligent Membranes to check if it's worth priming first, but IIRC you can apply that straight to the parge and the plywood. Use a sponge and clean water to rub any residual dust / contaminants off the plywood, do a good job of this, and then use a bit more of that PVA solution to size the plywood (leave it to dry this time). Use a good few coats of the PP where it crosses the foam and sits on the plywood, and leave to dry thoroughly before each following coat. It's really good stuff! Ah interesting you suggest Passive purple. I follow the Intelligent Membranes youtube channel and they have been posting up a lot of videos over the past few days showcasing PP. I have those video saved to watch later but I think it will be a product I will be using if not in this instance certainly somewhere in the house. @Iceverge I believe you had suggested sealing around joist ends in a similar manner when you were critiquing my IWI build-up, so a bucket of Passive Purple would certainly get used on the project.
Annker Posted April 14 Author Posted April 14 @Iceverge Yes certification isn't a concern in any event as the project is a renovation. And yes, I had been wondering if air tight tapes were essentially strips of air tight membrane, certainly a cost saving to be had if they are.
Mike Posted April 14 Posted April 14 I'd most likely foam it too, with Ilbruck FM330. If I really wanted tape, then I'd do as @Iceverge suggests and cut a strip of regular airtightness membrane, then fix it in place using Orcon F. I've used both techniques and they both work well. 2
Nickfromwales Posted April 14 Posted April 14 58 minutes ago, Iceverge said: Just reason back on Nicks suggestion. It's a good one. You didn't say how modest I am?!
Iceverge Posted April 14 Posted April 14 2 hours ago, Annker said: @Iceverge Yes certification isn't a concern in any event as the project is a renovation. And yes, I had been wondering if air tight tapes were essentially strips of air tight membrane, certainly a cost saving to be had if they are. Nope, different beasts. A membrane is normally 1.5m wide, just a sheet of fancy reinforced plastic. A tape is only 50-200mm depending on application and has adhesive included. 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: You didn't say how modest I am?! Along with your understated humility and bashfulness it's your best hidden quality. 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now