Radiator tears off a layer of wall!

[LLL]

Hello,

 

I found a radiator tears off a layer of the wall from the left side, the metal brackets/hooks from the right side are partially off from the radiator but the wall is fine. The radiator works fine but I worry about the leaning angle getting bigger and bigger so will finally break the pipe connecting to the floor - since it might be the only support of the radiator.

 

I am even fine if it is just off from the wall, should be able to be fixed. What really worries me is that the layer of the wall, as you can see is quite thin but looks hard not a plasterboard, probably only 15-20mm? what is the material of this layer? where are the bricks? I thought this is a double-layer brick wall. 

 

thanks 

 

[Russell griffiths]

That’s the plaster, normally 12-15mm thick. 
the plumber hasn’t used a long enough screw, so it hasn’t reached the blocks/ bricks properly. 
will need taking off at the valves and the radiator laid down then the brackets re fixing. 

[saveasteading]

I did that recently. I 'just' leaned on it to help me up.

The removal and reconnecting of the plumbing is more work than the fixing.

Are you planning to do this yourself or get a handyman in?

 

[Marvin]

8 hours ago, LLL said:

will finally break the pipe connecting to the floor - since it might be the only support of the radiator.

 

Don't hang about. Carefully put suitable wooden chocks either end of the radiator between the bottom of the radiator and the floor. Don't force them in, just use enough thickness to be firm. If your really worried squeeze silicone in where the fittings are off the wall as a temporary measure as well this will help to stop it wobbling.

 

M

 

 

[marshian]

 

 

[Russell griffiths]

1 minute ago, marshian said:

 

 

I was going to suggest that, but thought it was dicing with death. 

[marshian]

Just now, Russell griffiths said:

I was going to suggest that, but thought it was dicing with death. 

 

I do it all the time when decorating no leaks or issues - obviously only works with conventional rads (fed bottom in bottom out) and not towel rails or vertical rads but that's life

 

Only one rad in the house has no pull up clearance so I can't on that one but all the rest have a good 5 - 10 mm of "pullupability"

[Marvin]

Depends of amount of pipe available. 

Not easy if pipes go into screed but often easy when timber joisted floor.

 

 

[LLL]

Thank you all for your kind and quick responses, the video is very helpful and I never thought it could be turned in this way without even remove the water inside the radiator. 

 

The new issue is tonight I found a very very tiny leakage at the left side (the connecting with the floor pipe, see the picture), maybe 1 drop in a few mins. so my question is can i turn off the radiator completely and stop the leakage (no one leaves in this room at the moment)? It seems this pipe is not controlled by the valve.

 

Is it still safe to do following the video but i think I still need to fix the leakage issues even though I can safely hang the radiator back to the wall? 

 

thanks 

 

[MJNewton]

That joint is under pressure from both sides so even if you were to close down either/both radiator valves it'd still be subject to water being pushed up from below. The nut might just need ever so slightly nipping up. And I do mean slight - being overtightened is just as likely to cause a leak as being undertightened (and can be a more difficult situation to reverse back from).

[LLL]

1 hour ago, MJNewton said:

That joint is under pressure from both sides so even if you were to close down either/both radiator valves it'd still be subject to water being pushed up from below. The nut might just need ever so slightly nipping up. And I do mean slight - being overtightened is just as likely to cause a leak as being undertightened (and can be a more difficult situation to reverse back from).

thank you very much. It seems not leaking anymore, it was only a very tiny leakage. But I worry that the weight on the pipe can finally make the pipe bend/break and then could be a disaster since I have no way to turn it off so all water in the boiler will be out to the floor/carpet. I have no idea the weight of the radiator with water, how long I can leave it, i was thinking of fixing it when gets warm in March or later. 

 

If I call a plumber to do the job, it seems not a single-day job because they have to repair the wall and wait for it to dry before can put the radiator back into the wall, it is something only a plumber can do (or willing to do)?

 

[LLL]

On 14/01/2025 at 08:43, saveasteading said:

I did that recently. I 'just' leaned on it to help me up.

The removal and reconnecting of the plumbing is more work than the fixing.

Are you planning to do this yourself or get a handyman in?

 

thanks! I was thinking of doing it myself when I saw the video below, but I then saw the pipe is a bit leak so I probably have to find someone to do it. but does the plumber do the job since the wall needs to be repaired as well, it could be a 2-day job since has to wait for the wall to dry? Do you know roughly how much it will cost, i am not in London BTW. 

[saveasteading]

4 hours ago, LLL said:

but does the plumber do the job since the wall needs to be repaired as well,

I think things are improving, but plumbers can be  a little precious in the SE, and want somebody else to do anything that isn't pipes. You have to watch out for them wanting 2 visits.

 

I could do this all , with some clumsiness, in about 4 hours with the right kit all to hand.

The wall repair is just filler and is hard in an hour, then you might paint it (or not). 

1 hour to remove the rad

1 hour fix the wall and fit the brackets

1 hour fit the rad

 

half day: £150. parts £20.  £170 .. add for overheads and add vat... £250?????

(x london  money = £400.)

 

[LLL]

I made a few calls, some local plumers&heating from Google near me. No one wants to take the job! either said would be a very long waiting time or just said this needs many different people to deal with the wall, plumbing etc. Very surprising! Does anyone suggest where I should find such a company to deal with this?