Air tightness Paints/Sprays

[PeterW]

I wouldn’t bother. Unless there is a reason, I would come back to the first truss and build a stud wall and make that the end of the airtight box. Easier and simpler to do too.  

[DeeJunFan]

There is an attic window in the other side so wouldn't be as easy there. 

[DeeJunFan]

The window side is where i would be having office space. 

[PeterW]

1 minute ago, DeeJunFan said:

There is an attic window in the other side so wouldn't be as easy there. 

Attic window in the gable wall ..?? You’re only talking about an extra foot or so - you could make the surround of the window flared as a feature. 

[DeeJunFan]

this one,

 

Dont have an internal pic

 

[Declan52]

39 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

Do you think it would be very sloppy?  My main concern is getting the plasterboard wet underneath and spoiling the skimmed ceiling

Am sure you won't be standing on the truss doing it using your ninja skills so if any falls it will hit the planks/sheets you will be standing on.

[Declan52]

28 minutes ago, DeeJunFan said:

this one,

 

Dont have an internal pic

 

Very nice looking Dee. It's Xmas dinner booked for yours!!!!

[Ferdinand]

1 hour ago, DeeJunFan said:

Do you think it would be very sloppy?  My main concern is getting the plasterboard wet underneath and spoiling the skimmed ceiling

 

Tape strong building plastic sheet across the first couple of joists before you put your planks or sheets down.

[Ferdinand]

17 hours ago, JSHarris said:

The sort of professional machine needed to run a nozzle of that size with a decent spray pattern is going to be around £600 to £800 to buy, and as the nozzles wear (and my guess is that this stuff will wear the nozzles faster than smoother paints) the hire cost might be a bit more than  few quid a day.  I bought my machine second hand from a local chap, who hadn't used it at all, for a couple of hundred and it was a real bargain, but it's only got a relatively small motor and pump, which is fine for spraying emulsion with around a 10" wide spray pattern, but it would probably struggle to deliver that sort of spray pattern width with a bigger nozzle, I think.

 

There's also a fair bit of clean up time with an airless sprayer - it takes a lot longer to prepare and mix the paint and clean out the spray pump, hose and gun, than it does to do the actual painting I found.  It is very quick though, and makes painting in awkward areas a bit easier.

 

For info my Wagner Project Pro 119, which is a £600 machine, runs at up to 200 bar and has a maximum specified nozzle size of 0.019".

 

For the job you are contemplating I wouldn't bother unless you are looking for an excuse to play. It will take most of a day to get used to it before you touch the job.

 

Given the area I would either use a roller or a wallpaper paste or dibbing brush.

 

[DeeJunFan]

aye it think a roller is the job, whichever product is going up there.  I'll see how it goes. 

 

Was hoping for Early enough in the new year, but unfortunately our plumbing team has been retired.  One guy lost his wife and decided to retire and the other has been hit with a chronic pain disorder and isn't able to continue working.

 

So i'm trying to sort a plumber out mid-job who is going to understand whats going on. 

 

 

 

[DeeJunFan]

@Declan52

 

If going the sand/cement/water approach what ratios would i need.  Obviously something quite wet that would roll on.  

[Declan52]

3 sand to 1 cement and it should be creamy rather than sloppy wet. Mix it up by adding small amount of water at a time and put a bit on the wall. If it runs down the wall it's too wet add more sand/cement to thicken it up or if  it doesn't spread  it's  too  thick. Medusa or even plasticiser will help in the mix.

 

 

 

[Ferdinand]

1 hour ago, DeeJunFan said:

@Declan52

 

If going the sand/cement/water approach what ratios would i need.  Obviously something quite wet that would roll on.  

 

If you are using sand/cement this chappie says sweeping brush. That looks like the texture for pancake mixture.

 

 

Edited November 27, 2017 by Ferdinand

[DeeJunFan]

Looks a handy enough job.  

 

Suppose the best way forward is just a good bit of prep getting the sheets and planks down and then being careful putting the gear on.

 

having looked at that i might do the timber joints with a brush and let them go off for a day or two and then do over again when doing the entire wall. 

 

Thanks lads.

 

[PeterW]

Oh and if you’re using a sweeping brush or roller, please please please wear eye protection ..!!! Cement and sand in the eye is not what you need..!!

[gravelld]

I think I would trust the airtight paint more than S+C for long term air tightness. Unless your work is the only S+C coat in history that doesn't crack.

[Ferdinand]

Can something be added to the S and C to make it more flexible etc.

 

Wondering about something as simple as PVA or Rubber Solution glue. I have used it mixed in as part of eg a hearth slab where a doc was difficult. I have no idea how effective it was but the suggestion was by a hoary old architect.

 

F