LED strip causing MCB tripping! Reason?

[markharro]

At the moment we only have our ASHP and solar PV connected to our 3phase consumer unit. Other than that we have 4 temporary power sockets energised. We are using these to power our internet router/switch and MVHR from time to time and a couple of lights etc. Also power tools from time to time.

 

I am currently installing a 2.5m external LED strip. I checked carefully with the supplier that the strip and driver are compatible. You will see the specs in the photos. I cut the 5m strip down to the 2.5m required. I added a plug to the mains end of the driver and connected to the strip as a dry run in the house and it lit up as expected.

 

I have now fitted it outside. However on wiring up again to test each time I plug in the MCB trips. The strip doesn't light at all.

 

I am totally puzzled - why would it work first time around with the strip lit and no tripping but now not at all? 

 

I have googled and most answers are talking about inrush current but these seems mainly connected to multiple drivers etc. 

 

Any other ideas what might be going on? thanks

[ProDave]

It's an rcbo that is tripping, so you don't know if it's tripping on over current or earth leakage.

 

Do you have another socket anywhere, even in a different property, that has rcd and mcb separate, plug it in there and see which one trips.

 

You mention cutting a longer LED strip short.  Did you cut it where shown and are you sure it was a clean cut with no whiskas that could short out?  I would expect some form of cap to go over the cut once done.

[markharro]

Thanks Dave. First question is how do I tell between mcb and rcd? Once I know that I can check what I have connected to our external power sockets on our shed. Then I might be able to run an extension cord from there.

 

Yes def cut in the correct spot and then sealed with special silicone glue I bought. The thing is after I did all this and mounted the strip in a metal housing and then clipped on the diffuser and then siliconed the end caps I tested it in the house and it worked fine. It was plugged in to the exact same power socket. 

[ProDave]

An MCB only has the "switch" not the little test button as well.  A consumer unit with just those, should have one or 2 big RCD's at the end of the row with the test button on.

[markharro]

In the end it turned out that the (brand new) driver was the issue. I got send a replacement and now all is well!

[markharro]

So this has got me thinking. If this new driver lasts a similar time to the one that failed how do you plan to be able to replace these things? I assume you normally fit them in the circuit behind plasterboard. Once hidden away and the wall finished and plastered and painted what do you do if/when the driver fails? should you design in some sort of access hatch?

[ProDave]

2 hours ago, markharro said:

So this has got me thinking. If this new driver lasts a similar time to the one that failed how do you plan to be able to replace these things? I assume you normally fit them in the circuit behind plasterboard. Once hidden away and the wall finished and plastered and painted what do you do if/when the driver fails? should you design in some sort of access hatch?

Do NOT build it into an accessible space.  It has to be accessible somehow e.g in a kitchen, on top of a wall unit etc.  Or even build it in behind the light switch and run dc to the light strip?

[Kelvin]

I don’t have that many LED strips and those I do have are under cupboards with the driver easily accessible. The recessed LED in the kitchen was a little harder so I extended the cables through a flexible duct (cable tidy) and fitted the driver in the cupboard behind the kitchen behind a wall plate. 

[zzPaulzz]

I’m intending to build a wall box for drivers and other bits into a quiet corner of each room that needs it. 

[Mike]

On my current project most drivers will be tucked into the corners of cupboards. Where that's not possible they'll be in a secondary consumer unit, next to the main one, with one conduit for the main voltage cables between the switch and the driver, and another carrying 24V to the LEDs.