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Stepped outer damp course….


G and J

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Our design has a completely flat floor throughout the ground floor, which we like.  The plot slopes down a bit towards the back of the house so we have a FFL which is 150mm above ground at the front and 420mm at the back.  So we have to have two steps down onto our patio if we don’t build up the patio itself, and we aren’t keen on being able to see into each neighbours’ garden.
 

We are having a brick plinth with two bricks showing at the front with the damp proof on top of these bricks, then a bell drip and render on a block skin.  If we keep the damp course at the same level throughout then we will see 6 plinth bricks which methinks will be too much.  
 

Can we leave the FFL and all associated membranes as is, but step down the damp course on the outer leaf?

 

This in places the outer leaf damp course will be lower than the FFL.

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49 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

Are you thinking to drop the render down by 300mm as well?  Draw it on the elevations and see what you prefer.

Yes, so that, for instance, the rear elevation has 2 or 3 bricks visible in the plinth before the cladding, rather than a clumsy looking 6 bricks.  But that would put the outer damp below the inner one and I was under the impression that they should be at the same level.

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So by accepting a bit less of a difference between FFL and the outside ground at the front of the house I can reduce the difference in level between the rear of the house and the patio.  I like that idea.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Following much head scratching I conclude that I'm not sure about where what goes.  So I went back to the drawings from our architect and read around a bit and here's my understanding so far.  I'd like to get this clear in my head before I think about variations to it.  What have I got wrong or could be improved....

 

IMG_3014.thumb.png.77c1315ed799049aa021192405585779.png
 

In case it helps here's a bit of the drawing the architect provided - sadly he made the assumption that I had a clue....

IMG_3015.thumb.png.f5bb8f9ca491ef7e81eed771b51a23b1.png

 

Edited by G and J
Put up pics properly
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I've been searching and reading and, I hope, learning.  I think I've sorted some of the issues with my b&b damp proofing detail. I'd be grateful for a steer on what else is wrong with it....

 

image.png.d401abb322e2484b5364c20dbbc53283.png

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>>> we will see 6 plinth bricks

 

We have a similar situation with levels that go down towards the back and to one side. The plinth has a level top and, yes, you can see more bricks from some sides. Not a problem visually for me, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Feel free to check this aspect out at my gaff if you need.

 

IMG_7562.thumb.jpg.2348de7ee97ba2f1b34eec1549859a70.jpg

Edited by Alan Ambrose
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Sometimes, on some rhings, before the building work actually starts it’s hard to know what bits one needs to worry about and which ones one doesn’t.  Me bring me I want to understand me options in advance.   
 

It can be a pain but it’s helped me a lot in the past. 

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1 hour ago, ETC said:

Where is your floor DPM?

The location of the DPC in the cavity will be hard to build/co-ordinate.

My razor sharp wit has detected that your question indicates that I have something wrong.  Bugger.  

 

Where is my DPM supposed to be?

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I dont see any reason that the dpcs need to be at the same level in each leaf. Basically what you originally proposed sounds fine but im no BCO or technician. Just run it by them. Its only an issue because you've got render iff it was all brick you could keep the dpc level or put 2 in, one above splash course at 150mm above ground and one level with dpc internally 

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A DPM is normally placed above the slab and is linked to the DPC in the inner leaf and internal walls. There are numerous sources online - check out TRADA - who will help you with your detailing.

 

The DPC in the outer leaf can - as others have said be placed at a different level to the DPC in the inner leaf - it will be where doors are located.

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Interesting, no DPC under the block and I assume under the beam ends.  So the block and beam are ok being damp?  
 

Or is that relying on the blocks or beam ends not absorbing water and hence the majority of the beams stayed dry.  I had assumed as the beams were steel reinforced then they should be kept dry with their ends covered.  

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