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300mm timber rafters


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11 minutes ago, joe90 said:

And the council will never measure

We are advised that our planners will, rightly methinks, come out and measure if there is a complaint.

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45 minutes ago, G and J said:

if there is a complaint.

What oversize are we talking about? Mine was going to be 150mm above planned height, that would be difficult to see on a two story build. Mine was a hipped roof so difficult to measure ridge height anyway. As stated I reduced the slope by a couple of degrees which was not noticeable but reduced the ridge by that required.

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Architect just had a case where a 100mm over height was complained about and they had to re work..........one of our neighbours to be would notice.....they did a lot of measurement and comparisons in their objection and are peeved their objections were all ignored.......we may have this issue as alternative to a slight kick in the upstairs or lower ceilings in which case we'd do what @joe90 did and lower pitch very slightly .......for running of mvhr and cost we want to use 304mm posi joist, architect had assumed 200mm and we didn't check...... ho hum

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I wonder whether the valleys and complexity of our roof are making blown cellulose a difficult or suboptimal option? I keep

trying to work out whether there are going to be a lot of ‘nooks and crannies’ to fill with cellulose?

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1 hour ago, SBMS said:

cant really go much more than 300mm rafter depth

 

Rather than rafter thickness do you have an overall thickness of the roof please?

 

When considering 0.12 Vs 0.13 might be worth sitting down and doing some calcs to really get a handle on the little difference it will make. 

 

0.01w/m²K  will really pale into insignificance Vs a little better airtighess or improved COP on a heat pump. 

 

Say 100m² of roof, a pessimistic average delta T of 15deg for the heating season of 4 months. About 2900hrs x 0.01w/m²K  x 15⁰ = 435Wh or 0.435kWh.

 

Run it through a heat pump at a COP of 4 and it'll cost you about 3p per year. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Iceverge said:

 

Rather than rafter thickness do you have an overall thickness of the roof please?

 

When considering 0.12 Vs 0.13 might be worth sitting down and doing some calcs to really get a handle on the little difference it will make. 

 

0.01w/m²K  will really pale into insignificance Vs a little better airtighess or improved COP on a heat pump. 

 

Say 100m² of roof, a pessimistic average delta T of 15deg for the heating season of 4 months. About 2900hrs x 0.01w/m²K  x 15⁰ = 435Wh or 0.435kWh.

 

Run it through a heat pump at a COP of 4 and it'll cost you about 3p per year. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi @Iceverge

 

I have attached full roof makeup showing depth below. I suppose I felt that 0.1 would be a great target and so every point I move away from that is psychologically difficult! But your logic makes sense.

 

image.thumb.png.950a2a45fd5a8e5981bf54caf6e8c1aa.png

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390mm is the depth I'm adding up here from the plasterboard to the membrane on top. 

 

How about this. 

 

image.thumb.png.132deca6fe846b286c26984971f49229.png

 

 

 

Or a hybrid warm roof as shown below with 150mm above the rafters and 100mm between. You'd need to tape the bottom layer of OSB as airtightness here.

 

 

image.thumb.png.e1c78e665692c2a14b9e61c8dd9e5e6f.png

 

 

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36 minutes ago, Iceverge said:

390mm is the depth I'm adding up here from the plasterboard to the membrane on top. 

 

How about this. 

 

image.thumb.png.132deca6fe846b286c26984971f49229.png

 

 

 

Or a hybrid warm roof as shown below with 150mm above the rafters and 100mm between. You'd need to tape the bottom layer of OSB as airtightness here.

 

 

image.thumb.png.e1c78e665692c2a14b9e61c8dd9e5e6f.png

 

 

The first option is interesting - the staggered timbers looks good for thermal bridging. How would you go about connecting the 97x45mm To the 220s above?

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3 hours ago, SBMS said:

The first option is interesting - the staggered timbers looks good for thermal bridging. How would you go about connecting the 97x45mm To the 220s above?

 

Toe nail them to get them in place,  then 150mm screws would be my idea but I'm not a carpenter. I would run them at 90 Deg to the rafters. 

 

 

Alternatively you could just nail gun  45mm service cavity battens. And extend the 220mm rafter by the same on the other side of the membrane and use more cellulose and less mineral wool. 

 

 

 

Edited by Iceverge
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