About to fix render board...

[Pocster]

Hey all!

 

Just want to check I've got this correct before proceeding!

 

using http://www.resistant.co.uk/render-carrier-multi-rend/ 

 

So!; horizontal 50x50 battons. Infill with 50mm PIR

vertical 50x75 battons (no more than 600mm apart) ; infix 50mm PIR

 

dpc run just down each vertical batton? ; not DPM across the whole lot??

 

render board onto battons (will have a 25mm cavity for air circulation behind). Render board fittings all with a 4mm gap between (so no butting together). 4mm gap at edges (e.g. soffit etc)

 

Rodent mesh at top and bottom

 

Timer and render board ends above timber frame DPC.

 

Was going to make sure a vertical batton is at the edge of any doorways/windows.

 

Anything else I could consider or have missed???

 

OH!; I assume the 'printed surface' is the facing out surface yes? (with company logo/info etc. on it....)

Edited October 23, 2017 by pocster

[dogman]

Try not to joint board at corners of windows and doors.  It wastes loads but will minimise cracking risk. Batten round any ducts etc. and batten where you want to hang anything on the outside such as lights or sky dish

[Pocster]

My wife wants the cedral board mounted vertically  - which causes issues 

at the moment I have vertical timber with pir infill then horizontal  with pir infill ( infill not done yet )

so my insulation is 100 mm

I guess I need to now do vertical again and then do horizontal again on top - so I have the required air gap behind the boards . Timber alone adds up to 200mm of thickness 

is this correct ? . Of course if the board was mounted horizontal it would save the final horizontal  run .....

Edited October 29, 2017 by pocster
A picture is worth a thousand words

[Pocster]

This front section is more complex because it’s a mix of render board and cladding .

the rear is just cladding - vertically I guess ?

 

im guessing you aren’t meant to fix timber against a structure horizontally first ? ( water sitting on it ?? )

Edited October 29, 2017 by pocster

[Pocster]

Or ! A vertical timber for every vertical clad ?

limits the air flow but better than nothing and provides strength . Did think of some c stud metal - but as no board to make it rigid - not so sure on it .

[PeterW]

If your cladding is going vertical, you need a horizontal batten to fix it to. This needs to be attached to a vertical batten over the insulation to give you the airflow. 

 

Or am I missing something with your build up ..?

[Pocster]

46 minutes ago, PeterW said:

If your cladding is going vertical, you need a horizontal batten to fix it to. This needs to be attached to a vertical batten over the insulation to give you the airflow. 

 

Or am I missing something with your build up ..?

I’ve confused myself 

I have vertical with horizontal on top both In filled with insulation ; so no air gap 

so then I need vertical again , but also horizontal for the cladding to fix vertically if that makes sense !!

Edited October 29, 2017 by pocster

[Mr Punter]

It is recommended that you have a breather membrane to protect the Celotex.

[Pocster]

21 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

It is recommended that you have a breather membrane to protect the Celotex.

Ok

somwtimes i see this and sometimes I don’t 

 

you mean the same as a breathable roofing membrane ??

Edited October 30, 2017 by pocster

[Pocster]

Did membrane anyway 

[Pocster]

First board on 

 

 

[Pocster]

More board up

some of my ‘ expansion gaps ‘ are a bit wider than the recommended 4mm . If the guy rendering complains I’ll fix them .

no zooming in !!! ?

[Mr Punter]

The gaps should be fine.  Good to see that you have a stagger at the door heads which should reduce the risk of cracking.

 

What render are you using?

[Pocster]

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

The gaps should be fine.  Good to see that you have a stagger at the door heads which should reduce the risk of cracking.

 

What render are you using?

No idea !

the board spec seems to cover pretty much everything- k rend or similar