Omnibuswoman Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 I have been working on the bathroom carpentry stuff recently, and yesterday fitted the plasterboard to the shower cubicle walls. Having decided to create a niche, I cut out the plasterboard flush to the edges of the battens. However I now think I should have allowed a 12mm lip all the way around the niche so that the cut edge of the plasterboard lining butts up against it. It’s not too late to take the PB off and redo it, but is there an alternative? Is it a fatal error, or will tanking the wall (which I plan to do in any case) seal the cut edge and mitigate the error?? itself) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrymartin Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 You'll need to tape it prior to tanking so it should be fine. How are you creating the niche? There are some pre-formed ones you can buy that sometimes pop up for reasonable cost on ebay... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell griffiths Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 I always think of these things from the finished article backwards. what is your wall finish, will you end up with a slither of tile in that corner or are you hoping the tile from the other wall floats into the niche, I personally think further from the corner would look better. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omnibuswoman Posted June 20 Author Share Posted June 20 Good point @Russell griffiths I had entirely followed the existing spaces made by the wall frame and didn’t think about the possibility of adjusting that to suit the tiling pattern. Hmmm, fortunately I’ve put up the PB in three sections so I can easily remove the middle section and redo it with a different niche location. Any suggestions as to where it would better go? I’m using standard metro tiles (100mm x 200mm) in a brick pattern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 (edited) Think in terms of whole tiles and plan it back from there. These are ours. Are you tiling it yourself? If not my tiler didn’t want me to make the alcoves all he asked was for enough space be left behind roughly where it was going to allow him to dwang it and give him some leeway when making it. Remember it needs a fall to drain any water. Our tiles were all 600x600 Edited June 20 by Kelvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvin Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Hi @Omnibuswoman Recesses or niches in shower areas (especially with strong / power showers) are prone to leaks. If you considering tiling the niche, then, as @Kelvin shows its best with whole tiles. If I was using brick tiles and brick tile pattern I personally would look for some bigger tiles of the same colour, using one to cover each on the three sides and top and bottom surfaces. Personally, after grouting, I would seal the join between the tile and the tile edging and the internal corners with clear sealant and make the bottom slope towards the shower tray. Good luck Marvin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvin Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 Ours are formed from Jakoboard. It was hard trying to find formed alcoves to fit the space. They are taped, tanked, sealed then tiled and sealed again. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 (edited) I started tiling first and made the Niche fit between whole tiles, used Hardie backer board and some tanking. Takes some planning but no cut tiles. Should work with your Metro tile size. Edited June 20 by JamesP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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