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Posted

I'm going round in circles with this!

 

I've contacted two manufacturers of plastic posts. One says you can't use their posts in raised decks over 1m and the other says you can with diagonal bracing. I just don't see any evidence of anybody using it which puts me right off.

 

 

The other issue that had come up is the balustrade. A manufacturer advised it may be better to fix into steel at that height. So, I've started looking at steel frames as you say Crispy.  This is all turning into a massive time waster!  I can see why the pros just concrete timber in the ground and let the home owner worry about it in a few years!

 

  On 08/06/2024 at 05:20, crispy_wafer said:

steel frame?  then clad it, if you want a timber look!

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Posted
  On 05/06/2024 at 17:11, JohnMo said:

A snippet of our drawings for our deck structure, we moved the hill about instead of a big support structure.  Fairy simple steel, galvanised and wood between.

 

 

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How did you attach your balustrade?  Seems that there are lots of ways to do it and some are a bit dodgy for raised decks.

 

I'm after this style of rail below but not sure if it's acceptable just to screw down into the frame at the bottom of those posts.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.c7ad330d51517e67f08e4de0ec094986.jpeg

 

 

 

The second half of this video shows some common issues:

 

 

 

Posted
  On 10/06/2024 at 15:54, Lift span said:

How did you attach your balustrade?

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You really need a proper design, depending on actual drop and wind load and infill type, will change things dramatically.

 

  On 10/06/2024 at 15:39, Lift span said:

I'm going round in circles with this

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Because you are trying to do a job a structural engineer needs to complete.

  • Like 2
Posted

I wouldnt put wood into the ground unless it's oak. Pressure treated softwood is barely OK but never use a strimmer near it. It cuts the pressure treated layer. I found out the hard way.

 

Our house has some external oak posts, typically holding up roof overhangs. We dug pad foundations filled to just below ground level, then brick piers (1.5 * 1.5 bricks, 4 courses high with the top course being 45 degree plinth bricks). The hole in the middle was filled with concrete with a Stainless Steel pin sticking out the top. Then a square of lead was put on top, dressed about 1" down the slope. Then the post drilled with a hole to take the pin.   

 

20240610_170309.thumb.jpg.26a0efdc3758eb8205d88adff7751940.jpg

 

You could also buy or cast your own concrete block pier to get the wood out of the ground...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275700203774?chn=ps&_ul=GB&var=577119817626&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1l_9kbZx_TFyjSM9PSQnmNw71&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=577119817626_275700203774&targetid=1647205089000&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006886&poi=1006818&campaignid=21194089662&mkgroupid=162053931300&rlsatarget=pla-1647205089000&abcId=9406426&merchantid=6995734&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyJqzBhBaEiwAWDRJVIW55VLnv0qmo2qIlY1t4Av1Unz35lGaM2bEf3tGRdE1ezBMKB1ZZRoCV-EQAvD_BwE

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 10/06/2024 at 16:07, JohnMo said:

You really need a proper design, depending on actual drop and wind load and infill type, will change things dramatically.

 

Because you are trying to do a job a structural engineer needs to complete.

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You may well be right! I'm a chartered engineer myself so I'm generally happy with the numbers and I've had mixed success with structural engineers in the past. With a timber build I'm happy all the information is out there eg. The TDCA Code of Practice  - Raised timber decks is pretty comprehensive. Yes, no timber is the ground thanks!

 

It's just the alternatives I'm looking at. No doubt I'll just end up with 150mm timber posts (probably oak) on steel brackets in concrete with a standard timber frame above with lots of cross bracing.

 

I will ask my local SE though to see what they say.

 

Different view points are always appreciated though!

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Well, in the end,  I built this out of timber with composite decking. The footings also tie in horizontally with the building footings.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.82027c9c9980c493dd3c3d2672eb71c7.jpeg

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.54f97d77151223cb29f5c4002249d389.jpeg

 

 

 

Next question. I'm looking to do some kind of DIY glass balustrade.  Something like shown below but with a handrail (drop>600mm). ie. timber posts (fixed properly in the frame), with stainless steel brackets. Anyone done this?

 

image.thumb.png.6d3f068dc462ad2ca538287221bc0ac1.png

Posted

>>> I'll just end up with 150mm timber posts (probably oak) on steel brackets in concrete

 

If oak, they probably want to be A4 stainless.

Posted
  On 31/03/2025 at 21:28, Alan Ambrose said:

>>> I'll just end up with 150mm timber posts (probably oak) on steel brackets in concrete

 

If oak, they probably want to be A4 stainless.

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Is that due galvanic corrosion?  I used treated pine in the end. But, depending on what they are treated with I suppose it's the same issue. My intention is to protect the bracket/timber from the electrolyte (water!)  somehow.

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