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Juliet point fixing : could you review my design please?


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I've been avoiding this job for about a year. So far @Pocster hasn't seen fit to award me a Procrastination Biscuit though (😐 ) Never mind . 

 

Would you look at this drawing, and tell me what you think about the area highlighted in red ..... thanks.

 

This is a section through a Durisol Block: grey =  concrete (120mm) and the  lightbrown is Celotex insulation.  The block itself is a form of woodcrete

A threaded M10 SS bar is threaded through a 12mm hole (2mm for the resin chemical anchor)

 

SmartSelect_20240219_162800_Concepts.thumb.jpg.a283495a45b647f6a316ddfe0f0cadf0.jpg

 

The weight of the glass juliet screen  (90 lbs) is supported by 4 anchor points.

A Point Fixing 'grips' the glass.

That Point Fixing screws into a Threaded Spacer.

The Threaded Spacer sits on the M10 SS bar that's poking out of the wall.

The M10 bar is fixed into the concrete with some form of chemical anchor.

 

But that bar pokes through all that insulation - which gives the bar no support at all. 

 

My suspicion is that the weight of the bar will, over time ,  tend to push the threaded spacer into the wall. Ruining my render.

 

Should I fit a large SS washer between the spacer and the wall   (to distribute the force)   or should I use something more substantial?

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When I fixed my balcony to the wall, I had the same issue, soft EWI that i did not want to compress.

 

So the outer hole through the EWI was larger, then a spacer inserted so the fixing clamped up against (in my case) the timber behind the EWI.

 

Like this 

1591237950_fixingmethod.thumb.jpg.6cc37443472eee8fb64cdcf3e9c3c319.jpg

 

Final assembly, lots of sealant goo around the spacer as it was inserted, And a large penny washer over the end of the spacer tube.

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Do you have to cut out the inside of the block, where you show it recessed? That could be contributing to the strength, and as it's visible you will know it is doing something. Also you would have a conventionally fitted nut there,

absolutely preventing the bolt from puling outward.

If it can't pull out it won't fall down.

 

Then on the outside, yes use a substantial washer plate to spread the load.

 

The chances of getting any useful fixing on the middle fin of the block are very low.

However, I have seen a system of inserting a mesh tube, like  a stent, which is inserted into the hole and to which epoxy resin will adhere. It is much used in foreign climes where hollow bricks and blocks are the norm.

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https://rawlplug.co.uk/product/wire-mesh-sleeves/

 

sp-ce-r_product_technical_drawing_WebResFull.png

 

Seems to be readily available from specialist suppliers in UK too. this comes in kits or as 1m lengths.

I have never used it so it needs further research.

 

Even filling the gap to the insulation will provide a bit more stiffness.

If this worked it could glue to the inner face and not need a bolt inside the room .....Maybe

 

 

 

 

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