RobertW Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Dear Forum, I have a bit of a problem and I hope someone could advise. I've had a garden building built but there is a problem around the doors - basically the corners of the inside walls next to the door are wet/damp and I think it is due to water collecting on the step which is then soaking into the cladding, under the cladding, into the inner frame and through to the inside. The idea was to have a slate step. The door ended up being too low so they added another slate step above that. This seems to have created a problem whereby the water can rest on the slate step and even though they have used sealant around the edges, the sealant has come away which means more water is being able to get in. I could really do with some advice or suggestions which is where I hope you can help. Thank you, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 The damp patch certainly appears to line up with the lower step/plinth. Do you have any pics before the door went in? What is the wall build up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundtuit Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 I think I'd want the cladding cut shorter to leave a 10mm gap to let the end grain dry after rain and reduce the risk of capillary action. As above; wall build details would be useful. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Hi Markc + Roundtuit, I appreciate your replies. From front to back you've got cladding, batten, a very nifty multi-layer damp-proof membrane and insulation and then the internal frame. Very good idea about creating a gap between the bottom of the cladding and the slate - thank you. I've been through my snaps and I've found a variety that show various stages of construction to help show you. Thank you again. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oliwoodings Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Is the door frame sitting on top of the slate, or is the slate butting up against the side of the frame? The choice to not have a cill seems really odd - how is water meant to drain out of the frame? If you're not aware, no matter how well a pvc door is made and installed, water can still end up entering the frame. To handle it, the frame has drainage holes which leads down to the cill. It then either drains over the top of the cill or through it and out the bottom. Something like this: With your setup, I don't see how any water that enters the frame can drain out. That, plus capillary action on the cladding, seems like a likely cause. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 @oliwoodings I assumed the slate went under the frame and the frame would (should) have been drilled on the front face to drain. also the slate appears to slope towards the door instead of away but this may just be an optical illusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted February 19 Author Share Posted February 19 @oliwoodings Thank you for your reply and your detailed image. @markc Thank you also for your observation. The bottom slate rests on the concrete base and the top slate rests on the bottom slate to elevate the door (to make up for the mistake involving ground clearance) the door frame then rests on the top of the top slate. They have used sealant underneath the door frame threshold as well as sealant between the slates and around the edges of the slates. I've drawn a little diagram. I think you're right though. The water is soaking into the wood and there appears to nowhere for the water to from out from. Also the slates do seem to be level which means the water rests on the slates rather than running off. We can't (easily) take the door out without causing damage to door edging and the internal plasterboard so my current thinking, rather than try nearly cut away the cladding is to actually take away the problem, the slate. If I were to chisel it away then the water would have somewhere to run and then we can worry about how to make it look neat and tidy later. What you have said is really helpful though. Thank you. What is even more soul-destroying is that we got the builders to build two buildings and the other one has a larger slate step but exactly the same problem - so I can see why now. even though they have put loads of sealant all around it, the water is clearly soaking into the wood but then has nowhere to go. I may have to cut away the slate underneath and then make a channel for the water to run out of and off to the side and either a channel underneath or remove some of the cladding. Either way, i have a better understanding of the problem now. Thank you. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 You can't have the cladding touching the cill or ground. It will wick up lots of water and rot out in a matter of months. Best practice is at least 150mm gap at the base of cladding. Often this is in brickwork. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 @RobertW have you identified the frame drain holes? The bottom of the frame should have some, just thinking if any water getting into the lower frame has no means of escape (usually into the cill) then it could find its way out at the end of the mitres - effectively inside the building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oliwoodings Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 6 hours ago, markc said: @RobertW have you identified the frame drain holes? The bottom of the frame should have some, just thinking if any water getting into the lower frame has no means of escape (usually into the cill) then it could find its way out at the end of the mitres - effectively inside the building. That's exactly my thinking, I don't see how water can drain anywhere unless there are front drainage holes, but I don't see any in the pictures. @RobertW why don't you get the builders back to sort their dodgy job out? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundtuit Posted February 19 Share Posted February 19 @RobertW Apologies if I've missed it, but what are the doors? Upvc or timber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 Thank you all again for your replies. @RoundtuitThey are UPVC doors. You've all hit the nail on the head and you have all been incredibly helpful and I appreciate it. I will go back to the builders and now I have a better understanding of the problem, I can't be fobbed off and I can tell them exactly what we want. Many thanks, Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 58 minutes ago, RobertW said: a better understanding of the problem, I can't be fobbed off and I can tell them exactly what we want I've just seen this and the advice is very good. I'd just advise that you approach the builder in friendly fashion. Every building is different and challenges do present themselves. No builder knows everything. This is an easy one to sort, with the expert advice above, and a smile. Cut back the timber (and perhaps add a drip). Add protection to the raw cut end. You are left with some exposed concrete which perhaps paint in bitumen. Add weep holes to the frame. They need to be a decent size or the water will stick there. Will the water run away from it even then, if the slate is level? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 @saveasteading Thank you for your reply also. It is a shame as the builders are lovely guys who are really passionate about their work and I do think it was an oversight or a lack of realisation of the implications of the step causing an issue. The not being 'fobbed off' bit is about raising it as a concern and them saying that sealant around the bottom will be sufficient, when clearly it is not. I am sure we can get it sorted and by knowing what I know now, we can discuss the issue and the solution, diplomatically and proactively. Thank you, all. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saveasteading Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 38 minutes ago, RobertW said: diplomatically and proactively. and then let us see the finished product please. Looking at the last picture again, has the sill been closed of at the end? If that was opened up, any water escaping wouldn't be sitting on the step. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 I just wanted to let you all know that this project is still pending. With rain every day for months and no time to do it, it could be another few weeks yet before it's done - but I will keep this thread updated with the outcome. Thanking you again for your help and contributions of ideas. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 (edited) I'm thinking you need to reduce the width of the bottom slate so it's no wider than the door then replace the membrane and cladding either side of the door so it extends lower down to match the rest of the build. But I'm not sure how to deal with the door frame. The waterproofing should be done behind the frame/cladding with ventilation at the bottom so the end grain isn't standing in water. I allowed about an inch on mine. Edited April 25 by Temp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertW Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Thank you, Temp. I appreciate your input. I hope to be able to do this in a few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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