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Vertical cladding with gaps


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I found but have since lost a bookmark on this site about the above.

I am looking to do the cladding with Larch or Cedar but the architect has specified a good size gap between each timber.

As I said I had found a topic on it with regard to how thick the timber has to be for weathering the gap.

Is there a formula that you have to follow?

Thanks for any help.

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45 minutes ago, JohnMo said:

All I will say is get ready for lots of wasp nests.  Ours has lap joints and wire mesh everywhere and they still find their way in behind.

 

Interesting @JohnMo. I have the opposite experience. 8mm gap (which is now 12-14mm : shrinkage ) and not a wasp in sight. That doesn't mean there won't be any, but - to date - none. I asked a local pest-control guy (pub acquaintance) to come and look. He had an interesting take on the issue. If the gap is large enough there will be lots of air circulation -

 

"Wasps don't like living in a gale mate" was his memorable one-liner.

 

Our cladding is Siberian Larch (now contraband: you can't get it for love or money here) set on 2 by 2 battens on top of felt (Vent Pro Matt? £1500 for a 10m by 10m house. The felt is certified for a 30mm gap for about 30 years. Not sure I trust that but hey it's up and it works.)

 

PS the timber was 14mm ( now about 12-13mm) 

Edited by ToughButterCup
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On 31/01/2024 at 10:37, ToughButterCup said:

"Wasps don't like living in a gale mate" was his memorable one-liner

That's good to know, looks like I have made a nice cosy spot for them. No wonder they love it.

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This was one of these irrational decisions we made (well I did) I just couldn’t convince myself that leaving gaps directly exposing the membrane was something I could live with for 20-30 years. Therefore we did board on board which was an expensive decision. 

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If you use weatherboard or t and g it shrinks and distorts. If very well seasoned that can be minimal, but the slightest gap looks bad.

 

Hit and miss needs regular gaps and quite wide, to  make variable shrinkage a small proportion of the gap, hence not noticeable.

A black  membrane behind battens is effective and perhaps paint the battens black too.

Using big overlaps work too but is expensive.

I've tried all these, once having to strip and redo.

No problem ever with insects in the ventilated gap.

They do however love pir which they excavate to make a nest, but that shouldn't be accessible.

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