A couple of Plasterboarding questions

[crispy_wafer]

I've a few areas where I think it's sensible to board horizontally, being mindful of getting funny looks from a plasterer, 

 

1) is it ok to have tapered edge boards horizontally, is it an issue with the tapered edge being close to the floor? 

2) Likewise, when I board vertically is it ok to have tapered edges into an internal corner?

[markc]

Horizontal boarding leaves unsupported butt joints unless you add noggins along the joint line (although I did once see a stud wall with the stubs running horizontal … very odd).

tapered edges are only there to get reinforced board to board joints without skimming the whole area. If you are skimming over then it makes no difference.

[Thorfun]

As above, just noggin if the board edge flaps. All depends on you stud spacing and board thickness!

 

I put timbers in every corner to support board edges. 

[crispy_wafer]

ok cool,

 

Walls will be skimmed.

 

Yes all walls have noggins at 1200 ish allowing for pb to be lifted slightly off floor, and corners too.  Sounds like I'll be ok then, I was just concerned about the practicalities of the plasterer when skimming a taper flat when tight to floor, or tight into a corner...  Really just trying to minimise wasteage and making best use of each board.

 

[Thorfun]

Spreads won’t plaster all the way to floor anyway and will be scrim tape in the corners. 
 

sounds like nothing to worry about to me!

[nod]

No they are absolutely fine horizontal 

[crispy_wafer]

Another question

 

I’ve got a small downstairs WC and shower room (2*1.4)  it’s going to be tiled from floor to ceiling on all walls, walls are studwork.  What’s the best product to use?  Backer board or MR Plasterboard.  Will likely use the same product on all walls to be consistent in my approach.  If backer board, is there any specific brand that is better than others?

[Onoff]

I used Knauf Aquapanel both 6 and 12mm. The face of your studs has to be dead level as it's not very flexible like pb. It can develop hairline cracks but it doesn't appear detrimental as it's made with loads of cross-linked fibres. 

[Thorfun]

7 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

Another question

 

I’ve got a small downstairs WC and shower room (2*1.4)  it’s going to be tiled from floor to ceiling on all walls, walls are studwork.  What’s the best product to use?  Backer board or MR Plasterboard.  Will likely use the same product on all walls to be consistent in my approach.  If backer board, is there any specific brand that is better than others?

if it's being tiles maybe use tile back board (the XPS stuff like Jackoboard or Marmox board etc rather than Hardie!). be aware though that if using 12mm tile backer board for the Jackoboard i used the manufacturer said 300mm centers so i had to noggin a lot to obtain that. i think 20mm Jackoboard is fine with 600mm centers.

[crispy_wafer]

Aah, my studs are about 400, so 20mm product would be fine I can lose a few mm.  

 

A couple of my stud walls now look like dogs dinners tbf, all because I built up my stud walls then decided (or discovered) things like concealed cisterns, or me deciding to turn a 100mm stud into a 150mm stud just to hide a soil pipe.  Next time, I promise I shall have a proper plan!

 

 

[markc]

13 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I used Knauf Aquapanel both 6 and 12mm. The face of your studs has to be dead level as it's not very flexible like pb. It can develop hairline cracks but it doesn't appear detrimental as it's made with loads of cross-linked fibres. 

I reckon i would use aquapanel, it’s easy, stiff and I hate cutting backer board.

[crispy_wafer]

Just reading the aquapanel data sheet and instructions, reads like it is quite a simple product to deal with and use!

[Onoff]

2 minutes ago, crispy_wafer said:

Just reading the aquapanel data sheet and instructions, reads like it is quite a simple product to deal with and use!

 

Use the proper screws for it.

 

I used Starretts to drill holes in it. To cut, then cheap carbide grit jigsaw blades from TS and an old circular saw. The dust is very abrasive btw. Some advocate the score 'n snap method.

[Thorfun]

54 minutes ago, markc said:

I hate cutting backer board.

i don't get this....tile backer board (not Hardie backer board) is cuttable with a Stanley knife (other manufacturers are available). it couldn't be easier and is in no way any harder than plasterboard to cut.

[markc]

1 hour ago, Thorfun said:

i don't get this....tile backer board (not Hardie backer board) is cuttable with a Stanley knife (other manufacturers are available). it couldn't be easier and is in no way any harder than plasterboard to cut.

My bad, mark, read the bloody post properly before assuming … I was talking about hardie backer board. 🙄

[Onoff]

Aquapanel is a rigid, solid, inflexible cement board. 

[Thorfun]

I used hardie board behind the toilet to reduce the risk of flex. But Jackoboard everywhere else in our wetroom/shower areas. Did so on the recommendation of the tiler and a good friend who’s been in the game for a long time. It was enough to convince me! Elsewhere in the bathrooms I used moisture resistant plasterboard