Removing bricks from fire place to get more heat

[kestrel]

44 minutes ago, joe90 said:

If this were mine I would get rid of that brick hood completely , I think it dies not look nice ( just my  opinion), I would make a larger opening much higher, you could still have a brick arch if you want or an oak lintel (far enough away from the stove , this was mane on m6 last build and worked very well.

 

I agree. That looks good @joe90

Mine in comparison just feels way too restricted with the small recess and the hood. 

Also realised that the back of the box on mine is practically touching the wall so not a good air space

[joe90]

44 minutes ago, kestrel said:

I agree

Time to bite the bullet, can you lay bricks (neatly 🤣) or  find a local brickie and start a Plan, could look a lot better than what you have AND work much better 👍

[kestrel]

35 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Time to bite the bullet, can you lay bricks (neatly 🤣) or  find a local brickie and start a Plan, could look a lot better than what you have AND work much better 👍

I can plaster a wall neatly... (Hoping there's some transferable skill in there that helps with laying a brick properly!😂)

 

In all seriousness though I can at least do the dismantling part. Then if need be get a brickie in to do the bit requiring a bit more finesse

[joe90]

1 hour ago, kestrel said:

Then if need be get a brickie in to do the bit requiring a bit more finesse

The tricky part is not getting mortar on the front of the bricks, it’s a bugger (impossible) to get rid of it, mortar needs to be wet enough to “stick” but not run down the front of the bricks. 👍

[George]

The brick hood doesn't look very nice but I don't think it would severely impact on heat output over a long time period. 

 

As you are new to this stove I'll just point out what may already be obvious to you. A common user error is damp wood, I would ensure you've got sub-20% moisture wood and are properly closing the air flow to lessen the amount escaping up the chimney. 

[joe90]

17 minutes ago, George said:

The brick hood doesn't look very nice

That’s enough reason for me to change it 😇

[Crofter]

5 hours ago, kestrel said:

So I did some more investigation and thinking about how I might be able to pull the stove forward into the room a bit more.

The current install has a double bend flue connection pipe similar the one pictured 

 

 

 

Would it be possible to replace that with a double 90 degree bend?

The only thing is I don't have that 50cm gap shown in the image so not sure how I'd be able to get access in order to swap the parts.

 

 

Any ideas?

I definitely wouldn't do a double 90⁰ bend.

From memory you're only allowed something like 6" total horizontal run, and anyway it would become impossible to sweep the flue after that.

 

Are you absolutely sure there's no rear flue option? Your stove looks like a Charnwood. Mine came with the option of top or rear, but you won't see it without removing the lining bricks inside.

 

(If you do find a rear flue exit, I can sell you my genuine Charnwood rear flue adapter!) 😁

[Ferdinand]

Interesting thread. My comments.

 

1 - I would not do two 90 degree bends, as you may end up with standing moisture in the horizontal run. Plus sweeping may be more difficult.

 

2 - I don't see any way of reconstructing that without comprehensively removing the hood. Though taking out the arch and the triangle of 3 central bricks may work structurally (self-supporting - maybe) I think it would look clunky.

 

3 - Can you replace your stove with a rear entry one and bring it forward to the edge of the existing brick platform? I think there are regs around heat proof material needing to be X mm wide around the stove, but you do have those pavers there afaics.

 

4 - If you are redoing the fireplace, consider insulation behind the stove to stop heat escaping directly to outside (if it is outside). Probably rockwool to be heat tolerant.

 

5 - One of those infrared point-and-shoot thermometers may be a useful tool for investigations first top explore just where heat is going - they cost from about a tenner.

 

That would make a large difference to the amount of heat radiating directly into the room.

 

ATB 

 

F

[kestrel]

1 hour ago, Crofter said:

Are you absolutely sure there's no rear flue option? Your stove looks like a Charnwood. Mine came with the option of top or rear, but you won't see it without removing the lining bricks inside.

 

(If you do find a rear flue exit, I can sell you my genuine Charnwood rear flue adapter!) 😁

So it looks like I've got a charnwood C4 or C5(would have to measure up to confirm when I get a chance)

 

Yes it looks like it does support a rear flue adapter based on the info online. So that could be an option.

 

Given the super limited clearance ive got no idea how they managed to fit the existing flue pipe to the top of the stove and fit it all in. Feels like this was definitely fitted into an undersized recess

 

I think my first thing I need to do is get some of the brickwork out of the way and get a better idea of what I'm working with and my options.

Edited October 17, 2023 by kestrel

[Thedreamer]

5 hours ago, kestrel said:

So it looks like I've got a charnwood C4 or C5(would have to measure up to confirm when I get a chance)

 

Yes it looks like it does support a rear flue adapter based on the info online. So that could be an option.

 

Given the super limited clearance ive got no idea how they managed to fit the existing flue pipe to the top of the stove and fit it all in. Feels like this was definitely fitted into an undersized recess

 

I think my first thing I need to do is get some of the brickwork out of the way and get a better idea of what I'm working with and my options.

 Looks the same as my c4.