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Posted

 

 

Stupid question time

 

Presuming the yellow dots is the top as the female end of my flue pipe slides over it nice an snug. How do you attach the soot box cap?????? It wont slide over the bottom of the tee and theres no lip for the clamp to hook over. It slides over the yellow dot bit nice n snug but then the flue has to slide inside the tee if its used the other way up which cant be correct?

 

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Posted

Stove pipes go female up, so any condensation running down the inside stays inside.

 

Male up as your picture shows, and condensation could run out at a joint.

Posted
48 minutes ago, ProDave said:

Male up as your picture shows, and condensation could run out at a joint.

Condensation and tar. More primitive systems are male up and supposedly sealed with fire mastic, so I know this from experience.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

oh man, sounds like a bit of a tricky situation with that soot box cap! 😅 first off, it’s a bummer it won’t slide over the bottom of the tee, that's frustrating. 🙁 usually, you’d secure it with screws if there’s no lip for a clamp, have you checked for screw holes or a spot where you could drill some in? 🤔 it's crucial to ensure all joints and connections in your flue pipe are secure to prevent any leakages of those nasty flue gases. 😷 when dealing with the flue, considering the gas flow is super important, so ensuring it's connected the correct way is vital. 😬 might be worth double-checking the manufacturer’s instructions or reaching out to them directly. 📞 sometimes these components have a very specific assembly order or orientation that might not be immediately obvious. and hey, if you’re really stuck, maybe bring in a pro just to be on the safe side? 🧐 chimneys and flues are no joke and safety should always be the priority. 🚫

Posted

Got that all sorted now, next disaster was I assumed that as my roof is a 45 degree pitch a 45 degree bend would follow the trusses so had my vertical height sorted so top of flue 45 bend height was 60mm below bottom of the truss, plumbed it cemented it n secured it then went up into the attic to run the rest of the flue up to just below the ridge to discover that the angle needed was more like 50 degree so after putting on 2 meter of flue it was nearly touching the sarking. My flue make only does 15 30 an 45 bends so only way I can think to get the angle needed is to run the vertical of the plumb?
Realise I should of done a dry run first n checked angles etc. 

Posted

To check...  this is internal  and you are looking for 60mm?

 

How much does it wiggle at the joints?

If you can contrive more joints at corners or straights, then these will add up. You need just 5°, so 4 joints at 1.25°.

 

Or cut 60mm off the vertical.

All assuming your bits allow this.

 

 

 

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