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What to replace lath and plaster with?


nostos156

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Doing a room where I recently tore down and insulated an exterior wall. Heavily considering tearing down all the ceiling and other walls as well because trying to stabilise some of the plaster is doing my nut in. Problem is, the lath and plaster is a very good sound absorber and I generally like how little noise reaches this room (loft room).

 

What could I do without killing interior space to closely replicate the lath and plaster walls?

Edited by nostos156
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Huh, from the reading I did it seemed those boards, even when double boarded, still had nowhere near the density of plaster?

 

Double boarding does seem the better option from those two choices because hauling full sheets of heavy sound stuff up a flight of stairs sounds like a good way to die.

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Is boarding over an option? House we bought the previous owners had done precisely that in half the house. Used something like 63x22mm battens.

 

Removing old lath and plaster ceilings isn't a nice job.

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28 minutes ago, Conor said:

Is boarding over an option? House we bought the previous owners had done precisely that in half the house. Used something like 63x22mm battens.

 

Removing old lath and plaster ceilings isn't a nice job.

 

It may be possible, but I'd have to skip the battens and screw the board straight into the plaster, and just have the plaster act as a batten/packer. The ceiling is barely 230cm high and to make matters worse, it's a sloped ceiling with bloody curves at the corners, so I'd have to chip them away and refill into straight edges to get this to work.

 

Edited by nostos156
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Previously, i just bonded out the dips using a long straight edge. Foam glued and screwed the plasterboard to the underside. Skimmed and painted. Bit of a pain, but better than pulling down lath and plaster ceilings. Even with a good mask you will be trying to get bits of crap out from between your teeth for days.

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12 minutes ago, Big Jimbo said:

Previously, i just bonded out the dips using a long straight edge. Foam glued and screwed the plasterboard to the underside. Skimmed and painted. Bit of a pain, but better than pulling down lath and plaster ceilings. Even with a good mask you will be trying to get bits of crap out from between your teeth for days.

 

One thing I'm not sure how to figure out is getting a good fixing for the PB at the corners, as mentioned. They're built out and curved at the slopes and ceiling, so I'd have to chip them back straight and hope the screws can find timber along the egdes there.

 

I've done removal before like with this wall and to be honest with a half face P100 it was effortless, it was just the sheer mess on the floor that was annoying.

Edited by nostos156
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By the way, if I go ahead with this, what should I use to add extra insulation? The wall I tore down I used PIR (wanted a wardrobe there so needed to ensure max performance and no cold bridging to the back of it), but it would be fairly expensive to do that on every other wall + the sloped ceiling. I'm also not sure if there are concerns about enclosing a cold roof loft room entirely within PIR when it comes to moisture. The insulation already up there is the fiberglass crap so likely doesn't offer much performance after probably 30 years.

 

Was thinking maybe cramming some rockwool up there would help, RWA45? if I go for that, can it freestand within the wall cavities that are exposed to the open eaves (like PIR can), or will I need to brace it with something on the eaves side to stop it slumping out?

Edited by nostos156
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