DIY Plumbing mains to plant room

[crispy_wafer]

I'm procrastinating again! 

 

This time over how I ought to plumb the incoming mains to the plant room.  Originally I was thinking copper 22mm, take off a couple of reducing T's for Sink and outside tap, up the wall, through the web joists and down into the plant room, which then got me onto thinking about chasing the wall out so the dot and dab will go over the pipe nicely, then what about covering/protecting the pipe from the adhesive blah blah blah I'm heading down a rabbit hole. 

 

Or should I just HEP20 it, same route plan, just add metalized tape over the pipe where it will be behind plasterboard?

[crispy_wafer]

Adding a few for decisions into the mix...

 

I could do this

A

or

B

 

There is a likelyhood there will be cabinets covering the bulk of the pipework, except for in pic 1 where pipe goes past the wash m/c feed.  Pic 2 I'm looking at concealing the pipe in a chase, And/Or behind D&D

 

What do you reckon, Route A, or Route B? leaning towards A as its's simpler and less pipework

 

 

[Dave Jones]

more incorrectly installed windows failing building regs. They need to be set back into the cavity so 70% of the frame is overlapping the insulation. Straps to fit. Not too late!

 

[crispy_wafer]

Cheers @Dave Jones is this 2022 regs or the older regs? 

[Dave Jones]

i believe since 2020, doesnt matter though you dont want a crap job on your own place right ?

[jayc89]

What's your hot water system like? Considered a manifold solution?

[crispy_wafer]

Yeah @jayc89, hep manifolds are made up ready to rock and roll for cold and hot feeds to the rest of the build, just the colds in the utility where the main rises may aswell take feeds direct rather than bring pipes back in.  Just waiting on some 3/4*22mm fittings to complete the manifolds, then I can work out a bit of placement in my plant cupboard.

 

 

[Super_Paulie]

I'm in a similar situation, going to chase a wall this weekend. It does mean a transition from plastic to copper under the floor which I'm not keen on and I've decided to have my check valve at the manifold end instead of buried in a wall. I was planning on a flat metal bar to cover the chase incase I drill into it in the future. Which I will when I forget its there.

 

I'm aware that's no help at all to you, but just to say that we are both gunna be chasing block, so good luck to ya.

[Big Jimbo]

what ever you do don't put the washing machine valve behind the actual machine. Better behind a cupboard next to it with an access hatch.

[Nickfromwales]

Ok, so what about softening the water? Should the mains not just be picking up the kitchen / utility sink and outside tap, and then go into a pressure reducing valve, and then into a softener?

 

Is Lincolnshire water hard or soft?

 

 

England and Wales

Northumberland, Tyne & Wear and Lancashire down through the Midlands tend to have slightly hard to modrately hard water. Lincolnshire, the Home Counties and the south east have hard to to very hard water.

[Nickfromwales]

On 01/06/2023 at 08:37, crispy_wafer said:

Cheers @Dave Jones is this 2022 regs or the older regs? 

As long as the material that lines the reveals doesn't contact the outer leaf, the detail that you have there will be perfectly fine.

 

Oh, and option A defo not B (minus picking up the appliance).

[crispy_wafer]

8 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Ok, so what about softening the water? Should the mains not just be picking up the kitchen / utility sink and outside tap, and then go into a pressure reducing valve, and then into a softener?

 

Is Lincolnshire water hard or soft?

 

Cheers @Nickfromwales  Seemed I was getting a bit excited about plumbing, but must board the area first.  Always something to stop me having fun!  

 

So, Yeah, mains in, a feed to the sink, and outside tap with DCV, a run to the utility (cylinder control group), with a PRV, and a Tee for the Washing machine in an accessible location, I'll include isolators, or shut off valves at each leg too.

 

Been living on this water main and site for 30 years, and honestly never had an issue with the water, last washing machine lived to a grand old age, and the kettle is fine - These are my not so scientific instruments of water hardness 🤣.  Did discuss a softener with Mrs, but just seemed an unnecessary  expense/luxury.  However on the other side of Lincoln (Washingborough) at work the kettles need de scaling every couple of weeks, the water is terrible stuff.

[Nickfromwales]

6 hours ago, crispy_wafer said:

 

Cheers @Nickfromwales  Seemed I was getting a bit excited about plumbing, but must board the area first.  Always something to stop me having fun!  

 

So, Yeah, mains in, a feed to the sink, and outside tap with DCV, a run to the utility (cylinder control group), with a PRV, and a Tee for the Washing machine in an accessible location, I'll include isolators, or shut off valves at each leg too.

 

Been living on this water main and site for 30 years, and honestly never had an issue with the water, last washing machine lived to a grand old age, and the kettle is fine - These are my not so scientific instruments of water hardness 🤣.  Did discuss a softener with Mrs, but just seemed an unnecessary  expense/luxury.  However on the other side of Lincoln (Washingborough) at work the kettles need de scaling every couple of weeks, the water is terrible stuff.

Yes, a lot of my clients say they've managed to date, but the issue becomes problematic when installing new equipment and expecting the warranties to be honoured. Most manufacturers will swab when there is a failure, and if the PPM is above what they accept, then bye bye warranty.

Your call of course. WS's are around £600 for an entry level unit, others may have found cheaper units that they are happy with.

 

Incoming rising main needs to be,

1. Stopcock
2. Double-check non return (installed immediately after stopcock)
3. Drain off cock