Pocster Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Thanks guys ! Panic over re the ridge / hip tiles . Onwards and upwards !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 Just beat the rain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 (edited) OK! Next set of pics! I realise I'm almost creating a blog here; but it means any of you guys can pick up on any mistakes and I sure hope someone else who hasn't got a clue doing a roof will find this useful in the future. So!. I got my first 2 battons on (not fixed properly yet) . tile over hangs by just about 50mm into what would be gutter. Batton over hangs too much at verge because I wanted the other end to land on a truss and not be in thin air. So I'll cut them back allowing for 15mm fascia and 50mm for the plastic verge clip things. You can probably see my little flags at the apex ; this was so I had a target to fire my laser measure at from the 2nd batton. I thought I was being clever! The distance from 2nd batton to apex target is 3.93m SO! minus 30mm from apex gives 363cm 363/26.7 (tile length) = 13.5 13.5 rounded up is 14; so 14 rows of battons 363/14 = 25.92cm So I *assume* my distance between battons is now 25.92cm If someone could just check my logic/math would be great! Oh yes!. I called proctor group technical support regarding the "too lap or not not" at the ridge. They said breathable membrane, so whether roof cold or warm doesn't matter LAP! Oh yes the photo's of fun!!! ....... Edited August 18, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 No no no no no ..!!! Subtract the minimum head lap (usually 75mm) from the tile length and then divide the gap plus lap by that. So in your case it's Tile (267)-75 = 192 gap plus lap = 3630 + 75 = 3705 That's 19.2 rows up to 20, pitch becoming 185mm make sense ..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Don't forget to keep checking your distances from the top as you go up. Use a chalk line to strike a line from side to side to give you a straight line to set the batten to. A hammer stapler will make your life a lot easier and quicker for putting the felt on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 15 hours ago, Declan52 said: Don't forget to keep checking your distances from the top as you go up. Use a chalk line to strike a line from side to side to give you a straight line to set the batten to. A hammer stapler will make your life a lot easier and quicker for putting the felt on. Yeah that's why I've got my laser and targets to check as I go ; so I do t drift . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 19 hours ago, PeterW said: No no no no no ..!!! Subtract the minimum head lap (usually 75mm) from the tile length and then divide the gap plus lap by that. So in your case it's Tile (267)-75 = 192 gap plus lap = 3630 + 75 = 3705 That's 19.2 rows up to 20, pitch becoming 185mm make sense ..?? Erm! Post first do actual work later!!! OK!; right (I would of checked my figures *honesty* before doing anything) My tile length is actually 420mm So! Max gauge is 345mm Distance from 2nd batton to apex - 30 = 3900 11 rows 3900/11= 354.55 420-354.55 = 65.45 Overlap 65.45 Guage = 354.55 This seems correct!!!??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Ok; At the ends of the verge as the batton isn't long enough is there a standard amount min the batton should be for that small section? Photo's make it clearer. On the 1st row it's a short run; I wasn't so happy with the same on the 2nd row so cut the full length batton back; so the extra bit had 3 fixings; this good practise ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Batten must go over 3 rafters unless it's a valley or hip and you can do two at the top. Tile guage is set by the manufacturer - they look like either Marley Modern or Sandtoft Calderdales. If so, put the details into this and it will tell you your spec for the tile fix and the minimum headlap. https://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Resources/Technical-services/TileFix.aspx From memory, 75mm is the minimum head lap on those tiles - you also need to nail every tile ideally but not too tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 My tile length is actually 420mm So! Max gauge is 345mm Min lap 75mm Distance from 2nd batton to apex - 30 = 3900 12 rows 3900/12= 325 420-325 = 95 Overlap 95 Guage = 325 Now this is correct!!! - please check! yes Marley modern tiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Looks ok - are you making a gauge block to set the battens or measuring it from a top batten ..?? If it's a block don't forget to deduct the depth off the batten ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 4 minutes ago, PeterW said: Looks ok - are you making a gauge block to set the battens or measuring it from a top batten ..?? If it's a block don't forget to deduct the depth off the batten ..! got there in the end. Notice in my first post on this I actually made a typo dimension error!! - that didn't help anyone including me. Yes will make a measuring batton; and yes will take batton depth off that. Also will change that first batton short end to fix to 3 trusses . Magic help! - thank-you!! Get ready for the next instalment!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Don't forget to nail every one ...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 And what are you nailing those battens on with ...?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 (edited) 12 minutes ago, PeterW said: And what are you nailing those battens on with ...?? AH! I think I';ve accidentally been using the tile clout nails...... erm; does it matter? - perhaps I should swap to the correct nails ...... What I have supplied doesn't seem to match the invoice... I have: 50mm clout nails (think I've been using these for everything!!); assume really they are for fixing the tiles though 35mm clout nails (guess they should of been for the felt??) 65mm round wire galvanised nail - these should of been for the battens ... Edited August 19, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Yep - just put a galvanised in every batten you have done so far .... are the 50mm clouts aluminium ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 50 mm clouts are aluminium!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Ok so they are for the tiles ..... Just nail over the clouts with a ring shank nail - don't start taking them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 1 hour ago, PeterW said: Ok so they are for the tiles ..... Just nail over the clouts with a ring shank nail - don't start taking them out. Ok ! 2 steps forward ; 1.9 backwards ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 OK! Next instalment. I have like a decorators step (the metal thing) and I planned to 'hook' OSB over battons so I could 'walk up' the roof. I'm poop scared of heights and need to take a few pairs of boxers to do this. This is as far as I got (stop laughing!) The problem is I think is the metal step thing it's just too ropey to use at this height whilst it's on scaffold boards. So! ; any suggestions of a nice and safe way to go from scaffold boards onto the OSB walk way (assuming the OSB idea is good also). I could make some wooden steps with a hand rail and bolt them to the scaffold boards. I know it's overkill - but better to be safe than sorry - I only need to fall/slip once.... The 'easier' issue is these verge end plastic things. They have a big 'L' inside them; so even I assume that means left. But no matter which way I put them they don't seem to fit!! Any help always appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 One of these please!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 (edited) Actually I might build some steps that take me to the correct height. I'm currently on trestles 4 boards wide; so the 'platform' could be almost that width too. Could put a handrail down the side and the 'front'. This sounds like a plan. Not 100% sure about walking on the OSB as 'flat' as it is so could make a long strip and add batten on the upper side to act as crude steps. Certainly can't find anything online that's similar to this. It's a good plan yes? Edited August 21, 2017 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oz07 Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 The whole point of graded batten is to use as a ladder. Give it an hour you'll get a feel for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted August 21, 2017 Author Share Posted August 21, 2017 5 minutes ago, Oz07 said: The whole point of graded batten is to use as a ladder. Give it an hour you'll get a feel for it Yeah I know. I think once I have safe access onto and off the roof I might feel a bit better. But I can just see me putting my foot in the wrong place and ripping the membrane. Also it's me on my own - can't see how I can get tiles up there easy with this method (apart from 1 at a time!). I know a roofer would just grab 5 and walk up it no issues - but he's a roofer. Access steps first I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted August 21, 2017 Share Posted August 21, 2017 Finish the batten work on the roof of first. Once your up there you will get the knack of walking on it very quickly. a You won't put your foot throughout the membrane unless you try to ballet dance on it. Take last 2 trestles of your run and put them on top of your ones that are left. Depending on heights you might need to take the tops of to get them level with your roof. Load out the higher area with osb and tiles when the time comes and do the roof in sections. Move your scaffold further along then once you are finished the first section. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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