Studbox?

[Barney12]

There are a number of threads on here about the pro's and con's of metal back boxes vs dry line boxes. I'm still undecided.

However, I did stumble across these: http://www.studbox.co.uk/

They seem like the perfect middle ground and seem to be available for circa 60p more than an Appleby box so not bank breaking considering the time saving?

The little sticky out nipples to aid the boarders is a great idea (well I thought so).

[Nickfromwales]

They seem so stick out proud of the studs?

[Barney12]

1 minute ago, Nickfromwales said:

They seem so stick out proud of the studs?

 

Not sure I understand your question?

The surface I guess might be 1-2mm proud due to the mounting tongue but you'd not see that on a skimmed wall?

The nipples in the corner are so you can push your board against them to mark your cut out.

[jamiehamy]

Just now, Barney12 said:

 

Not sure I understand your question?

The surface I guess might be 1-2mm proud due to the mounting tongue but you'd not see that on a skimmed wall?

The nipples in the corner are so you can push your board against them to mark your cut out.

When screwing the board in, it makes a difference as the screws will pull through further - not an issue if skimming but would possibly be noticeble if taping and filling. 

 

I don't think we could have used them - we did all the boarding first and just punched a 12mm hole where the socket was to go and pulled the wire through - spark then fitted the box and wired it in one go - this way would need the spark to be onsite during boarding too? Nice idea, probably a doddle for a team always using them but for me, plastic boxes worked a treat. 

 

 

[ProDave]

Didn't we discuss these recently?

 

As shown, I can't see what supports the inboard end. Nothing? So they will disappear away from you as you try to engage the screw?

 

If you really really want metal back boxes, fit dwangs (noggins for the southerners)

 

If you want dry lining boxes, fit appleby, nothing else. They are the only ones I know that reliably stay latched in position, and the nut inserts don't jam and spin (the main complaints against using plasterboard boxes in the first place)

 

Re Jamies point. There is nothing wrong with the boarder cutting the back box holes as he goes if he wants to, as long as he gets them at the right height and level. But most joiners I see that board the wall and just drill a hole can't even get that right, with the hole sometimes being above the finished box height and sometimes below it.

[Barney12]

Just now, ProDave said:

Didn't we discuss these recently?

 

I must admit I thought I had found them and posted before but searched and found nothing. I do have a habit of repeating myself though :).

[Barney12]

1 minute ago, ProDave said:

As shown, I can't see what supports the inboard end. Nothing? So they will disappear away from you as you try to engage the screw?

 

The video seems to demonstrate no real movement.

 

 

 

[Jeremy Harris]

Yes, we did mention them about 5 or 6 months ago I think. 

 

Personally I'm not convinced, I prefer metal back boxes that are securely fixed and that are spaced so they project into the plasterboard.  Holding the board in place and then tapping it against the box marks where it needs to be cut.

[Barney12]

3 minutes ago, JSHarris said:

Yes, we did mention them about 5 or 6 months ago I think. 

 

Personally I'm not convinced, I prefer metal back boxes that are securely fixed and that are spaced so they project into the plasterboard.  Holding the board in place and then tapping it against the box marks where it needs to be cut.

 

My memory is rubbish

 

Out of interest what did you do on the external walls with the 38mm service batten? Just pack the boxes out slightly? Or use a 45mm box screwed straight to the back?

[Jeremy Harris]

Our service void battens are 50mm and I just glued and screwed 12mm spacer boards to the internal skin and fitted 45mm boxes.  The boxes ended up coming about half way through the plasterboard.