Russ P Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 36 minutes ago, bassanclan said: Looks good. why did you choose that pipe layout? Generally going in ever decreasing circles is better for temperature evenness and less tight bends on the pipe Mainly because of the awkward layout of the room i ran the different layout options in loopcad and the method your talking about had 3 very tight bends in it. So I opted to have two runs in the chosen method and both or around 50-60m in length Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 6 hours ago, Russ P said: I wish there was trickery involved lol I wouldn't be so f#cked! ??? You've done well there. The re-bar should be off the deck but I'll let you off. Mix the concrete a little wetter to let it get right around the mesh and pipes, and don't forget the fibres to make the mix flexible . Luckily your on a forum populated with experts so NOBODY here would forget something like adding fibres to the mix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 31 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You've done well there. The re-bar should be off the deck but I'll let you off. Mix the concrete a little wetter to let it get right around the mesh and pipes, and don't forget the fibres to make the mix flexible . Luckily your on a forum populated with experts so NOBODY here would forget something like adding fibres to the mix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 42 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You've done well there. The re-bar should be off the deck but I'll let you off. Mix the concrete a little wetter to let it get right around the mesh and pipes, and don't forget the fibres to make the mix flexible . Luckily your on a forum populated with experts so NOBODY here would forget something like adding fibres to the mix The mesh will be off the deck when concrete is poured ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 44 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: You've done well there. The re-bar should be off the deck but I'll let you off. Mix the concrete a little wetter to let it get right around the mesh and pipes, and don't forget the fibres to make the mix flexible . Luckily your on a forum populated with experts so NOBODY here would forget something like adding fibres to the mix Oh I've also ordered concrete with 10mm gravel with fibres. I work for the concrete company so hopefully have a nice discount lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 3 hours ago, Russ P said: Oh I've also ordered concrete with 10mm gravel with fibres. I work for the concrete company so hopefully have a nice discount lol What mix are you going for? And how about your company giving buildhub members some discount too??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 9 hours ago, Russ P said: Oh I've also ordered concrete with 10mm gravel with fibres. I work for the concrete company so hopefully have a nice discount lol Any chance of posting me a couple of buckets full for my shower tray? So that's 10mm maximum aggregate size? Similar to what I was thinking, to use a 3:2:1 pea shingle/sharp sand/cement mix maybe. I need to decide on the mix and an additive to "toughen" it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 7 hours ago, oranjeboom said: What mix are you going for? And how about your company giving buildhub members some discount too??? C30 will be more than enough with added fibres. And it's not a big company yet they've only been trading 6years so still a local based company around Shropshire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 1 hour ago, Onoff said: Any chance of posting me a couple of buckets full for my shower tray? So that's 10mm maximum aggregate size? Similar to what I was thinking, to use a 3:2:1 pea shingle/sharp sand/cement mix maybe. I need to decide on the mix and an additive to "toughen" it up. Yeah maximum 10mm aggregate. I've only been in the job 5months and we don't supply screed so couldn't advise on a shower tray mix unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Well had to delay the concrete until 3pm due to plumber not turning up so decided at midday to pressurise it myself. Now sat at 3bar concrete laid and trouled! Not fussed with finish off concrete as got some free self leveller which will level the finish 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 I saw the pressure rise as the concrete set. How out of level do you think it is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Digging out on Monday, and walking on the tested, dry slab on Friday. I'll buy the beers. That's good going mate ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjeboom Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Digging out on Monday, and walking on the tested, dry slab on Friday. I'll buy the beers. That's good going mate ! I'm just bloody glad the wife doesn't read this.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 10 hours ago, Onoff said: I saw the pressure rise as the concrete set. How out of level do you think it is? ill re do it shortly when I get up. It's not being connected to the boiler until next week so I've only done it from the mains just so it wasn't empty. I don't think it's too bad to be fair will just be a few bumps where I very quickly troweled it at the end but it's not being tiled!! It's having golden fossil paving slabs so will be laid on a bed of compo over the winter when I can afford it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: Digging out on Monday, and walking on the tested, dry slab on Friday. I'll buy the beers. That's good going mate ! I gave myself a target and luckily I met it. Was hoping to get away for a long weekend to the coast but wife was too late booking it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Nick's buying the beers? He could be drinking 10 year old malt if he waits for me to finish! I dustproofed mine (as tiling hasn't been done yet) with thinned down SBR rather than PVA. Something to do with if you use normal PVA and any water gets through the grout it can lift the PVA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 3 hours ago, Russ P said: It's not being connected to the boiler until next week What boiler is it? Make / model? If your connecting the one zone of Ufh to it, you'll need to keep it connected to the whole house radiator system so that acts as a buffer. Don't fit a 2-port valve to make the Ufh independent or the boiler will short cycle like crazy trying to keep the Ufh fed via the blending valve on the manifold, so basically the flow and return for the manifold gets teed in like as if it was another radiator. Don't forget if you haven't got a dedicated bypass radiator somewhere on the heating circuit, one that doesn't have valves you can close by hand eg no TRV at the very least, ( usually the one at the bottom of the stairs / lobby / hallway etc and servicing the house room thermostat ) then you'll also need an automatic bypass valve across flow and return where the Ufh tees in. A stated above you'll need to set the heating to come on a little sooner, well with 100mm of concrete, compo and slabs I'd say at least and hour, so if you don't already have TRV's on the upstairs radiators your going to benefit from having them, so when the heating becomes on an hour early the bedrooms at least don't overheat. If you want independent control for the Ufh you'll need a buffer tank between the boiler and the manifold If you have a combi, then it's likely you've had the copper hot tank removed from the airing cupboard ( ? ) If so, then that would be a good place to fit the buffer so the heat from it gets used to air the clothes ( unless the combi was fitted so you could do away with the airing cupboard ( ? ). Typical size for the buffer would be ~80-100 litres. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 44 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: What boiler is it? Make / model? If your connecting the one zone of Ufh to it, you'll need to keep it connected to the whole house radiator system so that acts as a buffer. Don't fit a 2-port valve to make the Ufh independent or the boiler will short cycle like crazy trying to keep the Ufh fed via the blending valve on the manifold, so basically the flow and return for the manifold gets teed in like as if it was another radiator. Don't forget if you haven't got a dedicated bypass radiator somewhere on the heating circuit, one that doesn't have valves you can close by hand eg no TRV at the very least, ( usually the one at the bottom of the stairs / lobby / hallway etc and servicing the house room thermostat ) then you'll also need an automatic bypass valve across flow and return where the Ufh tees in. A stated above you'll need to set the heating to come on a little sooner, well with 100mm of concrete, compo and slabs I'd say at least and hour, so if you don't already have TRV's on the upstairs radiators your going to benefit from having them, so when the heating becomes on an hour early the bedrooms at least don't overheat. If you want independent control for the Ufh you'll need a buffer tank between the boiler and the manifold If you have a combi, then it's likely you've had the copper hot tank removed from the airing cupboard ( ? ) If so, then that would be a good place to fit the buffer so the heat from it gets used to air the clothes ( unless the combi was fitted so you could do away with the airing cupboard ( ? ). Typical size for the buffer would be ~80-100 litres. It's a Worcester combi Boiler but I leave all that to my cousin as he's a BG engineer. There is only 1 radiator downstairs now which will never be on due to a log burner being installed. And 3 upstairs 1 in each bedroom as bathroom is running electric ufh. I've taken 4 rads of the system but it will only really be 2 of the rooms on as I prefer a cool bedroom. But I am looking at installing a smart stat system throughout the entire heating system so I can control each radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 31 minutes ago, Russ P said: It's a Worcester combi Boiler but I leave all that to my cousin as he's a BG engineer. There is only 1 radiator downstairs now which will never be on due to a log burner being installed. And 3 upstairs 1 in each bedroom as bathroom is running electric ufh. I've taken 4 rads of the system but it will only really be 2 of the rooms on as I prefer a cool bedroom. But I am looking at installing a smart stat system throughout the entire heating system so I can control each radiator Your deffo going to need a buffer then. The boiler will modulate ( reduce heat output to the minimum ) but it'll short cycle like hell. That'll fatigue the boiler and seriously compromise it's longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Your deffo going to need a buffer then. The boiler will modulate ( reduce heat output to the minimum ) but it'll short cycle like hell. That'll fatigue the boiler and seriously compromise it's longevity. Hmm there's no room for a buffer so I suppose I could run it into the current heating system and the just control the radiators on the smart stats. I tend to leave my heating on all day during winter to be fair just on a very low heat all day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 18 minutes ago, Russ P said: Hmm there's no room for a buffer so I suppose I could run it into the current heating system and the just control the radiators on the smart stats. I tend to leave my heating on all day during winter to be fair just on a very low heat all day The very reason you'll need a buffer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 Just checked and your boiler if it's a green star will modulate down to 7kw. Way over what you'll be consuming at tick-over. That means all through the heating season your boiler will be far from condensing and running at its least efficiency , plus short-cycling its arse off. Not a good design for a system you intend to own, and be paying the bills for, for the foreseeable. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted August 25, 2017 Share Posted August 25, 2017 2 hours ago, Russ P said: and the just control the radiators on the smart stats. That means they'll shut off and leave no flowing volume of water. Having all the rads on smart stats / own zones / or even just TRV's will do nothing to help the situation, TBH they'll actually make it worse. Think long and hard now, whilst you still have the opportunity to do so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Central heating confuses the shit outta me that's why I leave it to my cousin lol. All I knew is it would be a ball ache to get enough radaitors in that room which is why I chose UFH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ P Posted August 25, 2017 Author Share Posted August 25, 2017 Them Buffer tanks ain't cheap are they ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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