Flashing/detail for timber cladding

[eandg]

Not sure if this is the right section but can't find anything more appropriate. I'm trying to work out how best to finish timber cladding while allowing it to sit above the splashline (underbuild is currently blockwork to external ground level but intend on bricking up 2-4 courses of facing brick). Is there a fairly standard cill product that I'm missing?

[ToughButterCup]

Is this the problem you need to solve..... ? How to seal - waterproof - the gap between the bottom of the cladding and (probably) the path round the house

 

We used  Ubiflex. Its good stuff. Bit expensive, but cheaper than lead.

[eandg]

On 26/01/2023 at 09:53, ToughButterCup said:

Is this the problem you need to solve..... ? How to seal - waterproof - the gap between the bottom of the cladding and (probably) the path round the house

 

We used  Ubiflex. Its good stuff. Bit expensive, but cheaper than lead.

Ish, I think. More a proper cill product like this - not sure if it's just a case of replicating window dolls to sit above brick/blockwork at ground level. 

 

[Temp]

On 26/01/2023 at 01:13, eandg said:

but intend on bricking up 2-4 courses of facing brick). Is there a fairly standard cill product that I'm missing?

 

Plinth bricks? 

 

 

If the flat top is exposed as it will be I think the NHBC recommended lead flashing on top and 1" down the sloping face. At least that's what our builder said.

 

 

 

[eandg]

On 31/01/2023 at 16:40, Temp said:

 

Plinth bricks? 

 

 

If the flat top is exposed as it will be I think the NHBC recommended lead flashing on top and 1" down the sloping face. At least that's what our builder said.

 

 

 

We have a mix of facing brick and timber so was going to just run same facing brick. I'll look into whether we can just flash it/use a product like tough buttercup or need a cill (quite like the look of that but will be more expensive). 

[eandg]

On 26/01/2023 at 09:53, ToughButterCup said:

Is this the problem you need to solve..... ? How to seal - waterproof - the gap between the bottom of the cladding and (probably) the path round the house

 

We used  Ubiflex. Its good stuff. Bit expensive, but cheaper than lead.

I'm now looking at this - I've watched the install video for roofing but not sure the method is as applicable for this function. What did you do?

[Rishard]

I’ve seen it done in a few ways. Sail the cladding over the face brickwork. This avoids needing flashing (depending on cladding type) I’ve also used plinth bricks which need lead flashing to partially cover. This method looks more traditional however the plinth bricks can be quite expensive. I’ve also used aluminium flashings pre bent to replace both brick and lead and creates a modern looking detail. The aluminium lengths were round hot £30 for 3m bent to any detail supplied and plasticoated. My local brick company supply plinth bricks at £3.50ea + vat…

[markharro]

I have a similar question. On parts of our wall we will have open vertical cladding above a lower section of render. The top half of the wall has black waterproof UV resistant membrane fitted so that rain passing through the gaps in the cladding will drain down without soaking the timber frame. The issue is how to stop this water then draining down behind the cement boards that will take the render? I guess having permanent moisture behind this boards will be sub-optimal? Do we need some sort of metal cill to deflect the water out and over the face of the render? thanks

[ToughButterCup]

14 hours ago, markharro said:

...  On parts of our wall we will have open vertical cladding above a lower section of render

 

...The issue is how to stop this water then draining down behind the cement boards that will take the render? I guess having permanent moisture behind this boards will be sub-optimal? Do we need some sort of metal cill to deflect the water out and over the face of the render? thanks

 

Design the battening such that the lowest batten supports some sort of valence  (such as the one in the image above).

 

We were supplied with a special glue (but I suspect many other generic mastics will do ) that sticks the membrane to the valence. I'll dig around and see if I can find a spare tube.  It won't hurt to tape the membrane to the valence as well.

 

I'll look in our stillage to see if we've some left over.

[Temp]

21 hours ago, markharro said:

I have a similar question. On parts of our wall we will have open vertical cladding above a lower section of render. The top half of the wall has black waterproof UV resistant membrane fitted so that rain passing through the gaps in the cladding will drain down without soaking the timber frame. The issue is how to stop this water then draining down behind the cement boards that will take the render? I guess having permanent moisture behind this boards will be sub-optimal? Do we need some sort of metal cill to deflect the water out and over the face of the render? thanks

 

 Can you run the render board up behind the cladding a bit so the membrane can overlap it without being seen?

 

I used a strip of lead above a window on my outbuilding. The top edge of the strip goes behind the membrane, the bottom edge goes in front of the cement board (window head board in my case). 

 

There must be someone making aluminium sections that would do the same job.

[Temp]

This is the sort of thing I was thinking of. Its galvanised steel with a plastic coating..

 

https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/categories.html?filter_set[]=285,310&name=drip+flashing&type=simple&perpage=76