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Garage Door Foundation Detail


benben5555

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Hi,

 

Has anyone got a foundation detail through a garage door opening. The below is what I have come up with. We want block paving up to the garage door (which sits on the inside face of the garage wall) rather that seeing a 300mm wide strip of concrete. I've added an extra DPM (red line) to direct any water that falls in the doorway out to the sub base of the driveway.

 

The purple hatch is the beam and block floor with a 100mm reinforced concrete topping. The blocks on the outside of the trench block are a continuation of the footing for the brick plinth either side of the garage door opening. I thought I might as well leave these in rather than miss them out and then try and fill with tonnes of concrete.

 

Thanks

 

image.png.a8444c048224ae9707ffea9b8704ae85.png

Edited by benben5555
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Concrete run-on slab and a movement joint in the block paving. Basically what you'd normally do but set 100mm lower so you can block pave over the top of it.

 

Red = concrete

Green = steel mesh

Blue = movement joints

 

image.thumb.png.fbf23ea832661800d3cfad398d464739.png

 

I agree with running the foundation and blockwork through, too.

Edited by George
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  • 5 months later...

Just to continue this thread, does it not matter water can get behind the DPM at the door opening (as it's a garage) or does this need to be considered?  Appreciate the door is on the internal side of the reveal and likely also covered by the soffit at the eaves.

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what we are doing with ours. Concrete it to the outside of the pillar either side. When we ready to pave, cut a nice straight line (even with shuttering you wont get this straight to the mm) ready to take the paving. We also have a linear drain across the front. Can run a length of 900 dpc along the join if you really want to but cant see it doing much really, im not bothering with it as damp will never be an issue at that junction.

 

I would up the fall as well from your 1 in 60 which will be 1mm of fall over that 550/600 width. Id make it 5mm over such a short distance. Another case of an architect drawing utter nonsense.

Edited by Dave Jones
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I always assume that the rubber won't work and the wind will blow water under.

Therefore I continue the slope fior about 200mm past the door.

Then the wind struggles and the water just runs back.

 

I tried to patent this but was told it was too obvious.

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