2*92.5 or 2*135's

[crispy_wafer]

I'm thinking about one of my waste runs from upstairs to a soil pipe, cock up, or the devils forward thinking with the placement of attic truss means it can't come straight down to the stub.  It does mean at least that the boxing for the pipe can be built into the back of a wardrobe in another room.

 

I'm going to bring the pipe down the wall about 150mm to the side of the stub. Would it be safe to use 2 * 92.5 angles, or should I go with shallower 135's?  The drop to the first bend would be about 2.4m, it's going to pass through a stud wall at the bend too.

 

 

  

 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2022 by crispy_wafer

[Nickfromwales]

Are there liquids / solids going through that zig-zag or is it just a rising vent?

[crispy_wafer]

sorry, tis waste from, toilet, shower, basin.

[PeterW]

Has to be a pair of 135°/ 45° and properly supported 

[crispy_wafer]

Great stuff, thx

[joe90]

12 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Has to be a pair of 135°/ 45° and properly supported 

Or a rest bend?

[Nick Laslett]

I have a few of my vent stacks that need to be closer to the corner of the walls. I assume I use 2x45° To achieve this. 
 

[PeterW]

17 minutes ago, Nick Laslett said:

I have a few of my vent stacks that need to be closer to the corner of the walls. I assume I use 2x45° To achieve this. 
 

You won’t get 90° elbows to get that close - and anything that has liquids passing down it needs to be 45° or 22.5° where possible.

 

Don’t forget most soil brackets stand off about 35-40mm and when you try and work in corners you need to leave space to get the fixings in ..!!
 

Saddles are sometimes easier to use than the fixings that have the captive screw/bolt and a single stem, Tesla’s are even easier as you can put the studs and the inner part on the wall and then move in and out to suit.

 

[Nick Laslett]

6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

You won’t get 90° elbows to get that close - and anything that has liquids passing down it needs to be 45° or 22.5° where possible.

 

Don’t forget most soil brackets stand off about 35-40mm and when you try and work in corners you need to leave space to get the fixings in ..!!
 

Saddles are sometimes easier to use than the fixings that have the captive screw/bolt and a single stem, Tesla’s are even easier as you can put the studs and the inner part on the wall and then move in and out to suit.

 

Peter, thank you for the advice. I will use 2 shallower angles and get the stack a little closer. I think it is about 150mm from the wall right now. I hadn’t considered how the fixing might affect this. I will take a look at your suggestions. 

 

I have a hole in the concrete ceiling above where the pipe needs to get to. Very hard to make the hole in the ceiling any larger because it is 100mm thick concrete with steel mesh. 
 

Is it a problem putting the stack at a 10° angle instead? The ceiling is 2.7m above the floor, so I can easily angle the stack. 

[PeterW]

4 minutes ago, Nick Laslett said:

Is it a problem putting the stack at a 10° angle instead? The ceiling is 2.7m above the floor, so I can easily angle the stack. 

it won’t seal into the fittings properly at 10° off centre.

 

Quickest way is a pair of 22° bends and a decent amount of proper silicone grease on the seals as that makes them rotate nicely so you can square it all up.

 

Is this a stack or a vent ..?? You can drop vents down in size if you speak to BCO. 

[Nick Laslett]

3 minutes ago, PeterW said:

it won’t seal into the fittings properly at 10° off centre.

 

Quickest way is a pair of 22° bends and a decent amount of proper silicone grease on the seals as that makes them rotate nicely so you can square it all up.

 

Is this a stack or a vent ..?? You can drop vents down in size if you speak to BCO. 

Yes of course that makes sense. This is a stack.
 

I’m not sure exactly how much off the ceiling hole is with the SVP stub in the floor. But between a pair of 22° bends, and some widening of the hole, I’m sure I can make it work.