radiator - no balancing valve but an isolation valve

[Question]

I had a radiator installed (dual fuel with electric element).  There is a TRV on one side but no balancing valve on the other side.   There is an isolation valve on the other side.

 

Should I

 

(a) use the isolation valve as a balancing valve, or

(b) get the plumber back and ask him to put a balancing valve as he should done originally?

 

Thanks.  

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

18 minutes ago, Question said:

I had a radiator installed (dual fuel with electric element).  There is a TRV on one side but no balancing valve on the other side.   There is an isolation valve on the other side.

 

Should I

 

(a) use the isolation valve as a balancing valve, or

(b) get the plumber back and ask him to put a balancing valve as he should done originally?

 

Thanks.  

 

 

Do you have a pic of the isolation valve please? Do you mean they fitted a ballofix valve?

 

One of these?

[Question]

yes, here is a picture.  See copper pipes (ignore silver ones)

Edited October 16, 2022 by Question

[Nickfromwales]

Ah, OK  

The plumber has fitted the balancing valve, and you’re staring at it  Grab the circular chrome cap of the valve that side and unscrew it. Bingo  

[Nickfromwales]

The ballofix valve shouldn’t be of CH pipework though. I hate seeing them used. Should be ( if absolutely necessary ) full bore valves, not a ballofix, as they are very narrow bore and are usually used for isolating hot / cold feeds ( mains pressure ). 

[Question]

here is the photo when I remove the circular chrome cap.   Do I just turn the nut?

 

How does the ballofix affect the CH? 

 

How do you know that it is not full bore?  It has 15 written on it.

 

Edited October 16, 2022 by Question

[Nickfromwales]

51 minutes ago, Question said:

here is the photo when I remove the circular chrome cap.   Do I just turn the nut?

 

Turn the Allen head grub screw.  DON’T touch the nut! 
 

52 minutes ago, Question said:

How does the ballofix affect the CH? 

The seal wears out after a few years due to the ferrous particulate in the water eroding it.

 

53 minutes ago, Question said:

How do you know that it is not full bore?  It has 15 written on it.

30 years of fitting them  

[Question]

Thanks so much.  We have quite a few isolation valves on CH system.   Two recently installed ones are under wood flooring that would be difficult to access (see photo).

 

Some were recently installed.

 

What is the easiest way to sort this out?  Should I replace them with full bore ones? 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Jesus Christ! 
Get them all taken out. Ticking time bombs. 
Stinks of a lazy plumber who’s used those to save draining down properly. 
Seriously, they all need coming out.  

Edited October 16, 2022 by Nickfromwales

[Question]

Thanks very much.  It is the work of two plumbers.   The second one was supposed to sort out the problems created by the first one, but he didn't.

 

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

24 minutes ago, Question said:

Thanks very much.  It is the work of two plumbers.   The second one was supposed to sort out the problems created by the first one, but he didn't.

Fingers crossed for the third!!

[Nickfromwales]

Link

 

You’ll see the full bore isolations have a much fatter body than the poky little ones.

When they get removed, as to see inside one   You can’t fit a pencil through one. 
 

Edited October 16, 2022 by Nickfromwales

[Question]

Thanks.  Exhausted with dodgy cowboys, and one can't sue them as they have no assets.

[Nickfromwales]

30 minutes ago, Question said:

Thanks.  Exhausted with dodgy cowboys, and one can't sue them as they have no assets.

It’s functional, so no case anyhoo…..

Maybe chooses from recommendations from friends and family?

[Question]

Thanks again. 

 

They were recommendations from neighbours/friends, though I think they were not able to judge the quality of the work done (but the person seemed nice, and the final appearance looked good).

 

Many tradesmen are chancers, hoping their work will probably be alright.  That is not what a homeowner wants.   

 

  We are now trying Checkatrade,   (though I suspect most of the reviews are made up). 

Edited October 16, 2022 by Question

[Gone West]

1 hour ago, Question said:

We are now trying Checkatrade,   (though I suspect most of the reviews are made up). 

I have only used Checkatrade once and the experience was good. I had windows and a sliding door fitted and the sliding door wasn't working correctly. I asked the supplier/fitters to fix it but they were reluctant because it was a couple of hundred miles to my place. After trying everything I noticed they were on Checkatrade so gave them a bad review. Checkatrade got back to me, because the window company wasn't happy, and Checkatrade wanted all the details. They apparently told the window company that the review would stay up and they would be removed from the Checkatrade scheme if they didn't sort out my problem. I heard the next day from the window company and the problem was fixed quickly.

[TonyT]

Look on the positive side at least the pipework has been insulated to keep losses down

[Nickfromwales]

Bugger.

 

 

Just spotted the compression onto pushfit, which I despise, but here it is catastrophic. 
The ballofix isolation valve does t have enough depth to get the insert and the olive in far enough to be robust. 
That one, and any others like it, need cutting out ASAP. 
This is especially problematic if the pushfit is JG speed fit pipe , but I can see a hep2o elbow there so it’ll hopefully have the very thin stainless insert.

Sorry, but another issue to add to the rectify list……..

[Spreadsheetman]

6 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Link

 

You’ll see the full bore isolations have a much fatter body than the poky little ones.

When they get removed, as to see inside one   You can’t fit a pencil through one. 
 

Can you recommend particular full-bore valves? Any have compact actuators, or are they all large levers?

[Nickfromwales]

3 hours ago, Spreadsheetman said:

Can you recommend particular full-bore valves? Any have compact actuators, or are they all large levers?

For heating, I only ever use gate valves or suitable metal seated lever ball valves.

For potable, eg hot / cold water, see the link I gave a few posts back