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Some advice on how to proceed self build


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Hi we’re extending 2 story to side and one across the back.

 

we’ve had walls and roofs done, boiler moved and first fix electrical done and windows in

 

we need to knock through old bathroom to put new into new part of house and partition plaster etc etc but not sure what needs to be done first?

 

we obviously don’t have money to pay a builder to manage it for us we’re just doing what we can ourselves and getting people in where we can.

 

is there some type of consultants we can pay to come and have a look for us and put us on the right track?

 

many thanks 

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If you can’t pay a builder who will do the work?

there are loads of consultants but probably much more than a general builder.

no way to give any more detailed advice without knowing what’s involved, site restrictions, loads involved etc etc

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16 minutes ago, nod said:

Knock through 

Put your partitions up Get plumber back Then Electrian When both of these two are happy Get your plasterer back to board out and skim and fit any tiles 

 

We need to remove the bathroom to knock through as that’s in the way through to new part.

I need to at least have the toilet and sink in the new bathroom before knock through.

I also need to re route the soil pipe before I can install the new toilet.

it’s probably easy if you know how but it’s not something I’ve done before.

I’ll post a pic of new side part the window you see is the old bathimage.thumb.jpg.72b561d318520c88684509bb2f85a31d.jpgroom 

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42 minutes ago, markc said:

If you can’t pay a builder who will do the work?

there are loads of consultants but probably much more than a general builder.

no way to give any more detailed advice without knowing what’s involved, site restrictions, loads involved etc etc

Really just need someone for an hour it’s only small build.

I can do some work myself and will do second fix plumbing as did an nvq 2 some years ago (10) I wouldn’t call myself a plumber but have a general idea

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I can’t work out what to do next, the bricklayer we employed is coming to do the knock through but I’m not sure when that’s being done in relation to everything else.

I want to put the plumbing roughly in place and then floorboards up stairs so I can start laying out for the bathroom with a view to getting some things in place.

after that I’m not sure where to go with it all.

the awkward part is having to remove the old bathroom in order to proceed with new one.

I’ll have to disconnect the soil pipe and re route it before I can connect the new one and I imagine it will take me a while to do

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9 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

It looks like you are making decent progress.  You could get Building Control to visist just to confirm that they are happy to date.  Can you get the whole thing watertight?

 

Very neat housing of joists into the wall btw.

Building control are not being helpful in the slightest, I emailed them for guidance on fitting a fire rated door myself and they ignored me,3 phone calls all ignored.

 

They dont like having to deal with me instead of a builder, I have lots of questions and I think theyre too busy to answer.

I fitted the door and will be very unhappy if they tell me its wrong as I asked for theyre guidance but was not responded to.

 

They are due next for pre-plaster inspection.

 

We need a garage door then were watertight, the guy took the £500 deposit and has dissapeared.

 

I do need to move the soil pipe first though as its venting inside the upstairs, we have the windows open full time for now but its not ideal I know. I need to dissconnect the current toilet etc from the soil pipe before I can re-route it to the outside wall.

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1 hour ago, Paul Alan said:

I do need to move the soil pipe first though as its venting inside the upstairs

 

You need to block it off straight away.  You could just fit a dirgo on it for the time being if the basin / shower are not draining properly, but allowing sewer gasses in where people are living is very dangerous.

 

Some houses only have dirgos and do not have an external vent pipe.

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1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

 

You need to block it off straight away.  You could just fit a dirgo on it for the time being if the basin / shower are not draining properly, but allowing sewer gasses in where people are living is very dangerous.

 

Some houses only have dirgos and do not have an external vent pipe.

Thanks mate!

 

The Durgo valve is the perfect solution, If I buy the one that can also be used externaly it will save me from having to mount the soil pipe so high up the wall, so it's a double win.

 

Do you think that the shower/sink might be slower to drain using the AAV

 

 

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3 hours ago, Paul Alan said:

Do you think that the shower/sink might be slower to drain using the AAV

Not at all.

Just remember that replacing a soil and vent pipe ( SVP ) with an air admittance valve ( AAV ( btw, Durgo is a manufacturer of an AAV like Hoover is a vacuum cleaner ;) )) you no longer vent your system to atmosphere. If you have neighbours either side with SVP’s then you’ll be fine, but if you are end of run I would recommend you preserve that point of venting the sewer gasses.

On the soil / plumbing side, you sound in over your head. Part with some money and get a plumber to support you. Nothing stopping you T’ing into the stack to keep a WC pan connected and working, whilst using that run to carry on to the new location, then swap over in a day, blanking off the temporary loo. Just rotate the branch ( T ) when no longer required, to get it bellow floor level, and fit a cleaning eye / rodding cap in the branch to block it off. 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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9 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Not at all.

Just remember that replacing a soil and vent pipe ( SVP ) with an air admittance valve ( AAV ( btw, Durgo is a manufacturer of an AAV like Hoover is a vacuum cleaner ;) )) you no longer vent your system to atmosphere. If you have neighbours either side with SVP’s then you’ll be fine, but if you are end of run I would recommend you preserve that point of venting the sewer gasses.

On the soil / plumbing side, you sound in over your head. Part with some money and get a plumber to support you. Nothing stopping you T’ing into the stack to keep a WC pan connected and working, whilst using that run to carry on to the new location, then swap over in a day, blanking off the temporary loo. Just rotate the branch ( T ) when no longer required, to get it bellow floor level, and fit a cleaning eye / rodding cap in the branch to block it off. 

 Thanks Nick

 

I am going to buy an AAV and use that to solve the current problem , then re-use it externaly to save me going so high with the soil pipe.

 

I'm also going to the under floor plumbing and heating pipe work and put them in place for the new appliances, then I can put some floor boards in place and start laying out for new bathroom.

 

If I had some spare cash would gladly deligate...maybe I should have listened to my teachers in school after all

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi - I had to knock down both my kitchen and bathroom before I started building my own two storey extension. I even continued living in the house by making some temporary living arrangements. Not sure if this will be helpful or not but you can see what I did in my blog post. Here is my post about my temporary living arrangements. The whole project is blogged step by step so you can check out as much or as little as is useful to you. It's not a commercial site - just me and my blog that I hope will help or inspire others. good luck  diyhomeextension.co.uk

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