Cost effective way to soundproof cinema room blockwork wall?

[ashthekid]

I have a ground floor cinema room in my project that I made sure was made entirely out of blockwork walls on all 4 sides.

There is sizeable timber joists on the ceiling which then has a bathroom and bedroom above. Above the joists is 18mm chipboard and then 20mm UFH boarding and eventually carpet or bathroom tiling.

 

What I would like to know is what is the most cost effective way to provide as best soundproofing to this room as possible without breaking the bank and also avoiding resilient bars which I am not a fan of.

 

I plan to dot and dab 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard to both sides of the blockwork or would I be better to dot and dab the outer side with 12.5mm and then perhaps batten inside blockwork with 12mm PSE timber batten and then 15mm acoustic plasterboard.

 

As for the ceiling, I was perhaps thinking 12.5mm acoustic plasterboard, then 12mm PSE timber batten and then another later of 12.5mm plasterboard. I'm not having any spotlights on purpose(just wall lights). And of course 100mm acoustic Rockwool in-between the joists.

 

Would this be a good setup?

It is only a 4m x 3.3m room size.

[tonyshouse]

Dense concrete blocks, ideally 140mm , wet plaster one side other side two layers of plasterboard of different thicknesses

 

ceiling full fill with dense rockwool batts, better to use poured concrete but more expensive , definitely double tack ceilings and carry blockwork to 20mm below floor and fill gap with rockwool 

 

ALL AIR PATHS MUST BE SEALED, even gaps round lighting wires will net noise in and out. 
 

22mm chipboard floor for me, no holes 

[AliG]

The best thing to do is absolutely not to dot and dab the plasterboard.

 

I have some blockwork walls with dot and dab on them and they are very poor for limiting sound transmission.

 

As @tonyshousesealing air paths is key. No point having double plasterboard etc if there are gaps around the edges between the wall and the ceiling. Dot and dab will make this worse.

 

I would worry that two layers of plasterboard with battens between would actually amplify the sounds and simple double boarding might be better.

 

Even once you have done all this, a lot of sound will come through the door.

 

 

 

 

 

[Iceverge]

Speaking of doors has anyone installed an acoustic one. They're not mega expensive. I was in a commercial building yesterday and I was impressed by the sound supression of a normal fire door with fire seals. Light years difference from a timber one in our house. 

 

[Temp]

If space allows I'd build a separate stud wall to support two layers of plasterboard or even Hardi backer board for extra mass. Sound insulation between stud wall and blockwork. Studwork to be free standing as much as possible, eg not fixed to the blockwork to minimise transmission paths.

[Mr Punter]

6 hours ago, Iceverge said:

I was impressed by the sound supression of a normal fire door with fire seals.

 

I put some of the self adhesive plastic smoke seals around some doors in our house.  It stops the doors making much noise when they are closed and really helps with sound, even though the doors have a 10mm gap under.

[Mr Punter]

@ashthekid why the dislike of res bars?  They do a decent job of decoupling, which is key to blocking transmission.  Failing that, an independent wall with, say 50mm metal i studs, 2x 15mm plasterboard and Rockwool infill.  It depend on budget and sacrificial floor area.  For the ceilings you could do a separate metal frame ceiling.  Again depends on how much budget and headroom you have.

 

With flats we do res bars and 2 layers of 15mm soundbloc on the ceilings plus 28mm acoustic overlay boards onto 22mm chipboard for the floor above.

[ashthekid]

Sadly I don’t have a lot of space to do any decoupling. It’s a only a 3x4m room. 
and I can only really afford to put some kind of TecSound rubber panels onto the blockwork and then perhaps a very small batten, possibly 18mm with then 15mm soundbloc on top. 

[Iceverge]

You can get 16mm resilient bars.

 

Can you sound proof the other side of the walls. No reason this wouldn't be effective I can see. 

[ashthekid]

Have no room on the other side because of door openings etc on them.