Can you get mould in a bathroom with MVHR?

[Mr Punter]

21 minutes ago, Adsibob said:

Thanks.  Any particular silicone you recommend? 

 

I have been using BAL Micromax because I have a load left over.

[Faz]

Grout will give a nicer finish than mastic to your backer boards - just to make sure, you do know that grout comes in all sorts of different colours? You should get something fairly close to your backer board - natural grey maybe?

[Adsibob]

23 minutes ago, Faz said:

Grout will give a nicer finish than mastic to your backer boards - just to make sure, you do know that grout comes in all sorts of different colours? You should get something fairly close to your backer board - natural grey maybe?

But I thought the problem with grout was that it wouldn’t adhere within such a narrow gap? The gaps are probably 0.5mm wide or less.

[Faz]

You are probably right - too tight. Mastic it is then - again it is available in all shades.

 

The joys of construction - the descions you have to make on the way through often to make up for the descions you made earlier! It is a bit of a comedy show when you come to think of it!

[SimonD]

17 minutes ago, Faz said:

The joys of construction - the descions you have to make on the way through often to make up for the descions you made earlier! It is a bit of a comedy show when you come to think of it!

 

Love this. Spot on. Even more of a sh1t show when it was someone else who made the decision assuring you it's no problem! ?

Edited January 30, 2022 by SimonD

[Adsibob]

Comedy show indeed.

I have found some grout that describes itself as suitable for joints that are 0mm to 5mm thick: https://products.kerakoll.com/en-GB/p/fugabella-eco-porcelana-0-5

hmmmm... now I'm really confused.

[Nickfromwales]

Hi. 
Looking at the gap, and the fact that you no longer have any bevel to the face of the cut, I would just scrub these completely clean of any residual adhesive and fill and finish with clear CT1. 
No need for any super skills at all, just don’t cut the nozzle and use at the 3-4mm bead size it comes at. Start at the bottom horizontal ‘grout’ line where these meet the floor / tray / other and work that in vigorously with your finger, rubbing it in in both directions ( don’t worry about the CT1 getting over the face of the tiles / other as it comes off in seconds. Caveat is do NOT let it get on anything that is not flat and impervious ( like floor grout ) as it doesn’t like coming back off that without a lot of extra effort ). 
Once you’ve completed the horizontal application and your finger and wall / floor has CT1 all over it, use cheap baby wipes to clean the wet sealant off your hands first, then off anywhere you do not wish it to be. Use one BW just a couple of times and discard it to a bag, as otherwise you’ll defeat the object and start bringing it back to the surfaces you’re trying to remove it from.   Finish this part of the process by putting a BW over your finger and sweep from one side to the other in one long slow movement ( all the way along the horizontal ) to leave nothing of the CT1 on the tiles or floor / tray. Do this long sweep as many times as is necessary until you’re happy with what you see. Then leave for 24hrs to cure. 
Do exactly the same for all the vertical lines, working from the top > down. Do one vertical line at a time, cleaning 90% of the residual away at the horizontal grout lines up the wall. 
Once you’ve done 3 verticals, get a BW flat on your palm and polish all the area of tile 1 top to bottom. When you’ve done he 90% of tile run 4, go back and polish up tile 2 top to bottom, then 5 > 3, 6 > 4 and so on. The idea is to be constantly working wet sealant over / against wet sealant and to not allow the 90% area to start firing before polishing with your flat palm + BW. 
That will be much better than grout, 50 times better than silicone ( which has a very short lifespan on surfaces which are regularly cleaned  thoroughly ) and will NEVER attract mould / go black.
??