Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
35 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Still a bit pricey but better..!!

 

I'd have a bit of a ring around - how many metres do you need..?? Not forgetting any inner supporting walls..?

Inner supporting walls????

 

Timber frame guy 'suggested' . Timber frame; insulation in-between (though check with BOC); membrane; then batten to allow for utilities + plasterboard and skim.

So breathable membrane 'outside' (though still behind insulation and external blockwork) ; internal vapour barrier (???); just truing to make it super air tight I guess,

 

Cheers

Posted

Are you sure there's insulation in the cavity? Check with the Tf people about that. 

Also,as yours coming off b&b floor-what width of wall is supporting the ends of the beams? If it's 100mm & you're then laying 140mm on top to receive the frame,is it not the case that 40mm (or almost a third) of your structure will essentially be sat on fresh air?

Posted
1 hour ago, Brickie said:

Are you sure there's insulation in the cavity? Check with the Tf people about that. 

Also,as yours coming off b&b floor-what width of wall is supporting the ends of the beams? If it's 100mm & you're then laying 140mm on top to receive the frame,is it not the case that 40mm (or almost a third) of your structure will essentially be sat on fresh air?

The tf guy said to check with boc if insulation as well in timber frame void .

the tf at 140mm sat on b&b ; at the edge of b&b which in turn is sat in reinforced concrete walls . So nothing should be sat on un supported b&b if that makes sense .

 

cheers 

Posted
2 hours ago, PeterW said:

Yes - any walls inside the building that are load bearing ..??

Shouldn't be ; apart from 1 - it's placement won't change . Tf guy said just to do bricks for tf base on internal walls I.e thinner 

Posted
9 hours ago, pocster said:

The tf guy said to check with boc if insulation as well in timber frame void .

the tf at 140mm sat on b&b ; at the edge of b&b which in turn is sat in reinforced concrete walls . So nothing should be sat on un supported b&b if that makes sense .

 

cheers 

I wouldn't depend on BCO to have the technical knowledge of timber frames to answer that question properly. Fair chance he doesn't come across them too often. It may be common practice now but every one I ever worked on,the cavity stayed as a void. 

Posted (edited)

Ok. I simply can't find anything at 140 x 140 with good thermal efficiency .

Width must be 140mm.. Almost tempted to just cut basic thermalise's in half! (length ways)

 

This suggests I'm looking for the wrong thing!

 

This is about the best 

 

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/H%2BH-Celcon-Hi-7-Aerated-Concrete-Block-7-3N-140mm-Pack-of-70/p/509601

 

But the height is 215!. I guess my house could grow a bit; BCO wouldn't notice (rather than make timber frame shorter..............)

Edited by pocster
Posted

You need to check all manufacturers - there are loads...

 

Celcon H+H

Quinn Lite

Tarmac Hemelite

Durox

 

Any one of these will do

 

Posted
2 hours ago, PeterW said:

You need to check all manufacturers - there are loads...

 

Celcon H+H

Quinn Lite

Tarmac Hemelite

Durox

 

Any one of these will do

 

I know 

but finding stock of the 140mm is tricky 

Posted

Apparently a fire in a german factory has crippled supply of all aircrete blocks. 140mm impossible to get hold of!.

Any suggestions welcome!

 

Assuming I had the will power I could cut standard 100mm blocks in half and have a 220mm deep floor; but it seems a waste to do that and then fill with thicker insulation and/or thicker screed. Also; anyone fancy cutting 200 blocks! o.O

Posted

Websites are, in my experience, a pretty poor way of finding standard building materials.  It's better (and usually cheaper) to go around (in person) to all your local BM's, give them a list of everything you want, and get the best price.  Often they will price match if you try - my local independent always asked me what the best price I'd had was and tried to match it, even for stiff that was cheap on the web.

Posted

Or,buy the aircrere coursing bricks in 100mm instead of 140mm,invest in a block saw (approx £30 & will come in handy later on in your build) & cut them down to 140mm so you can lay them as 2 courses of headers. 

Or do you have a mate with a petrol saw?

If so,you could lay them header bond flush to the back of your wall (or flush to the front,whichever' more practical) & just cut them down after. Might require 2 runs to get through 140 but will still be pretty quick. 

Posted
39 minutes ago, Brickie said:

Or,buy the aircrere coursing bricks in 100mm instead of 140mm,invest in a block saw (approx £30 & will come in handy later on in your build) & cut them down to 140mm so you can lay them as 2 courses of headers. 

Or do you have a mate with a petrol saw?

If so,you could lay them header bond flush to the back of your wall (or flush to the front,whichever' more practical) & just cut them down after. Might require 2 runs to get through 140 but will still be pretty quick. 

 

Even laid on edge side by side with a 10mm bond would give 140mm...

 

This cat can be skinned lots of ways - first thought would be persevere in getting a supplier of 140mm wide as they are available...! I've had a pack of 140mm blocks this week straight off stock so I know they are out there...

Posted
22 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 

Even laid on edge side by side with a 10mm bond would give 140mm...

 

 

Not quite,would be 110mm. 

Posted

65mm on edge side by side would be 130mm with a 10mm bond making 140mm..?? I'm talking about using a standard 65mm coursing aircrete brick btw...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...