ianR1 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Long story short, we moved into an old house and ended up have to dig up the floors due to damp issues and we are now a few weeks off having the sand and cement screed done after the UFH has gone in. Anyway we have a stepped footing in which the insulation board butts up to but this sits 20 -25mm above the insulation board and is about 3/4 of a brick wide. How would be best to prepare this for the screed, initially i was going to fix the perimeter foam around this but it will reduce the depth of screed further so we would only end up with around 25-30mm thickness. These step out bricks are only on external walls of the rooms. Another thought would be to screed up to these areas and then fill the gap with another stronger product ? Any advice on this would be gratefully received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Ah.. When the builder lowered the levels did they alert you to the fact that you have corbelled brick found? Looks like you (builder) has excavated a tad more than you should have? Remember that external walls tend to hold up the roof too! I would ask an SE to have a look and at the same time they may sort out your screed levels. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Do you need the screed? I might ad 25-30mm insulation to the middle, and put a floating floor down, using wood or laminate. Could even use plywood + carpet. Did both of those with a renovation several years ago, and it has been fine since. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianR1 Posted September 4, 2021 Author Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, Gus Potter said: Ah.. When the builder lowered the levels did they alert you to the fact that you have corbelled brick found? Looks like you (builder) has excavated a tad more than you should have? Remember that external walls tend to hold up the roof too! I would ask an SE to have a look and at the same time they may sort out your screed levels. Sorry. Hi Gus, The brick you can see in the pic sits on top of another two courses and then it steps out again another two deep and they then sit on top of a concrete footing, this is the same on the outside skin too (we have a cavity wall). We excavated the minimum we could accommodate the 100mm slab and 100mm Insulation board Being an old house (early 1900's) there are a lot of features we want to keep so raising the floor wasn't an option. The old floor was a bitumen painted concrete in which 25mm concrete was on top of the bricks and then floor boards on top of that. Edited September 4, 2021 by ianR1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianR1 Posted September 4, 2021 Author Share Posted September 4, 2021 1 hour ago, Ferdinand said: Do you need the screed? I might ad 25-30mm insulation to the middle, and put a floating floor down, using wood or laminate. Could even use plywood + carpet. Did both of those with a renovation several years ago, and it has been fine since. F We have underfloor heating being installed so yes we will need to screed. The wife has an engineered wood floor penciled in for that room ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 1 hour ago, ianR1 said: We have underfloor heating being installed so yes we will need to screed. The wife has an engineered wood floor penciled in for that room ! Going a little off topic, however there are now various wet underfloor systems that will go into an 18mm thickness, suitable for use under a wooden floor. There are even ones that don't need to be overlaid with board. Info elsewhere on the forum. As ever with ufh, it is about the insulation underneath. F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayc89 Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 We had a very similar situation - moved into an old house, found the downstairs joists were all rotten, replaced with slab and UFH. We had an architect, builder and BCO onside and all three recommended/agreed that the top two courses of our stepped footing should be chopped out flush with the wall to allow the insulation (and perimeter upstand) to run flush with the wall. The architect and builder specialise is older properties. So we took an angle grinder to them (and oh the dust!). Our footings are pretty deep (for the age of the house) mind, we were 800mm down to swap out the old led water mains pipe and they were still going! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adsibob Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) I’m surprised the BCO agreed to chop off two courses of Corbels. My SE was relaxed about chopping one off, but said I needed to underpin if I wanted to chop much more than that. Although maybe your situation is different. Edited October 11, 2021 by Adsibob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Jones Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 use thinner insulation for 1m around the stepped area so the screed can be feathered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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