Lead flashing options

[Alien]

The kitchen in my property is an 80's addition. I'm looking for options with regards the lead flashing and flint work.

 

Really keen to stick with a tile aesthetic externally.

 

The previous lead chase was set very low to avoid the flint I assume.

 

I have little choice but to go under the current window line. The sills are coming out next job. Probably just going to brick these up.

 

What are your thougts/ideas on the best way to complete my flashing?

 

Stick with the original line?

Use render bead over the flint to seat the lead flashing to increase vertical lead height?

Other ideas/recommendations? 

 

On another extended area I removed a 2 brick area of flint work and relayed with period bricks to seat the lead inbetween but clearly the windows define my options.

 

Final draped membrane and tile battens to go on yet plus centurion which brings it very close to the window line. 

 

Ty in advance. Pictures attached.

[Dave Jones]

well, can the roof pitch be dropped ? You really need 150mm upstand on lead. That cill is going to need close attention to detail.

[tonyshouse]

Is it glass or polycarbonate? 

[Alien]

Cheers for the replies.

 

5 hours ago, Dave Jones said:

well, can the roof pitch be dropped ? You really need 150mm upstand on lead. That cill is going to need close attention to detail.

 

The roof was built with the rafters through the wall. Whilst it was stripped down thoughts were given to the front wall plate but, without knocking the entire thing down it wasn't viable.

 

So, unfortunately not.

 

I was working at a 75mm upstand and can almost scrape that except for the sill if I follow the original line. The chase line is just below the flint.

 

5 hours ago, tonyshouse said:

Is it glass or polycarbonate? 

 

Neither. 18mm OSB - cold config. 

 

The thought of rubber and flat roof systems crossed my mind but, that would really take away from the property. So, decision made on replacing to as it was built back in the 80's. 

 

First time it's been apart since then and rodents were responsible for this necessity - quite a good job they made too.

 

Removed, 3 layers of polythene, 3 layers of felt with 3 layers of insulation, 1/2 inch chipboard (with delightful original artex attached), celotex and 2 layers of plasterboard. There was some serious 'stuff' in there. 

[tonyshouse]

Pragmatic approach would be stick with existing - it will very likely be OK

[markc]

I’d go with what you have, alternatives are unlikely to warrant the work involved

[PeterW]

Could always give the flint work a couple of coats of Thompson’s or similar to stop any water ingress but I’d also want to get the lead in a decent 30-40mm. Don’t give it any opportunity for water to sit on the lead. 

[Alien]

Thanks for the replies. 

 

Has anyone used render bead to create a mortar line for Lead?

 

Someone whispered to me that they often do this over flint. Sounds like they secure the lead to the flint work on top of the bead, wrap straps around the lead in-between the bead and flashing and use the angle of the bead to create a mortar line in to the flint work. 

 

I am with you in that the existing line would be the easiest option just toying with ideas.

 

I'm going to make another post on a mono ridge I have. You might have some ideas for that.