Dee Posted March 10, 2017 Author Posted March 10, 2017 Simply simon.... Absolutely not! Haven't got a scoobies about cut roofs but if you have please talk me through the process. Step by painful step.... I'm deadly serious,!
Simplysimon Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 read through the leaflet and then ask the questions! at least then you might have a scoobies.
Simplysimon Posted March 10, 2017 Posted March 10, 2017 didn't mean it harshly, you said you didn't have a scoobies! i'm happy to go through step by step, but it's easier if you at least have an idea, if you know roughly what you're doing it cuts out a lot of time if i'm telling you something you already know. you need to understand the geometry of the roof and the constituent parts which is explained in the leaflet simon 1
Dee Posted March 11, 2017 Author Posted March 11, 2017 Apologies but I get fed up with some blokes (trades) dismissing my efforts ? I Have built truss roof before on my garage, felted, battoned and tiled... Also same on a hip but had builders do the timber work so I have an overview. Anyhoo I very just read through your link and it's brilliant! Answers most questions but I would still very much appreciate you being a sanity check for me when I get to the roof... Next weekend probably.... Thank you!
PeterW Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 @Dee for your sanity order this ..! Carpenters ready reckoner and one of these Adjustable Square I did a full cut roof with these and its got dormers and jack rafters and I only made one duff cut after reading this little gem of a book ..! 1
Dee Posted March 11, 2017 Author Posted March 11, 2017 Thank you ? I have to overlap the new rafters that sit alongside the old as it's 6m, how much overlap would you suggest?
PeterW Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 If it was me it would be 6m or between the ridge and the wall plate as you've guaranteed the stability and your not putting any stress points on the existing rafter. What does the design show ..?
Nickfromwales Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 @PeterW that first link just refreshes BH Is it just my end? Can't get any sense from it. ?
Nickfromwales Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 1 hour ago, Dee said: Thank you ? I have to overlap the new rafters that sit alongside the old as it's 6m, how much overlap would you suggest? As much as possible TBH. The more the better afaic, and if ordering the new timber at 4.8m then there's your overlap ( 6.0 - 4.8 = 1.2m tail end ). If ive got the right end of the stick that is .
PeterW Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 2 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: @PeterW that first link just refreshes BH Is it just my end? Can't get any sense from it. ? Fixed it...
Nickfromwales Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Tres bien. I'll order that, as roof cuts are the final frontier as far as my skill set goes. Currently mastering the nemesis that is staircases at mo as I'm trying to bag more garage / attic conversion / extension work this year. 1
Dee Posted March 11, 2017 Author Posted March 11, 2017 First issue uncovered.... See image The new rafters will sit on the right of the existing but there is a joist in the way.... However the joist sits on a steel so will it be ok?
Nickfromwales Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Is that a flue liner @Dee? Can we have a wider angled / zoomed out pic please? Ta.
Dee Posted March 11, 2017 Author Posted March 11, 2017 Yes it is a extractor flue but I can redirect it
Nickfromwales Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Ok. My question was aimed at if it was a boiler / fire ( aka deadly ) flue, I should have been clearer. . I was just going to give you chapter and verse TBH, like stop denting / damaging it for one, but if it's just a humble extractor duct then it's not an issue. . Much better pic. If we can see the whole 'picture', the advice will be better . 1
PeterW Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 Yep keep going ..! I would go bolts at 600mm centers with Sabrefix washers and then if you really want to put a cripple stud from the bottom of the rafter to the top of the joist. Nice that someone painted your steel with magnolia paint..... 1
Simplysimon Posted March 11, 2017 Posted March 11, 2017 hi @Dee, when you seat cut rafter to joist, a good idea is to do it as a pole plate roof. a piece of 30x30mm housed half way at 90 deg across the joist and the other half housed into the underside of the rafter. this will stop any movement. simon
Dee Posted March 11, 2017 Author Posted March 11, 2017 First day completed without too much drama! Only managed to strip roof tiles s off, cut, fit and bolt extra rafters x2 then cover in tarp cos it's gonna pee down tomorrow.... Grrrr Thank you boys for all your help and advice, it really is appreciated.... X PS. I'm trying really hard not to bother with all too much ? Dee
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Posted March 12, 2017 On 09/03/2017 at 20:11, RichS said: Ha ha, not a problem. Just as an aside, I don't know what you're cladding the dormer cheeks with (lead or tile hung or other) but if you simply nail another piece of timber to your outside spar you will have something to nail the main roof tile lath into where it butts up against the dormer. Yes it will carry without but it's a better job with. Outside spar? Can you expand please?
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Posted March 12, 2017 20 hours ago, Simplysimon said: hi @Dee, when you seat cut rafter to joist, a good idea is to do it as a pole plate roof. a piece of 30x30mm housed half way at 90 deg across the joist and the other half housed into the underside of the rafter. this will stop any movement. simon
Dee Posted March 12, 2017 Author Posted March 12, 2017 What size timber should the header be? It's 2.4 wide.
Nickfromwales Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 Select the right timber ( roof / floor etc ) at the top of each chart and fill your boots. Link 1
Nickfromwales Posted March 12, 2017 Posted March 12, 2017 At 2.4, I'd prob go for 5x2" but 6" would be better tbh.
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