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Doubling up rafters


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Simply simon.... Absolutely not!  Haven't got a scoobies about cut roofs but if you have please talk me through the process. Step by painful step.... I'm deadly serious,! 

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didn't mean it harshly, you said you didn't have a scoobies! i'm happy to go through step by step, but it's easier if you at least have an idea, if you know roughly what you're doing it cuts out a lot of time if i'm telling you something you already know. you need to understand the geometry of the roof and the constituent parts which is explained in the leaflet

 

simon

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Apologies but I get fed up with some blokes (trades) dismissing my efforts ? I Have built truss roof before on my garage, felted, battoned and tiled... Also same on a hip but had builders do the timber work so I have an overview. 

Anyhoo I very just read through your link and it's brilliant! Answers most questions but I would still very much appreciate you being a sanity check for me when I get to the roof... Next weekend probably.... Thank you! 

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If it was me it would be 6m or between the ridge and the wall plate as you've guaranteed the stability and your not putting any stress points on the existing rafter. 

 

What does the design show ..?

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1 hour ago, Dee said:

Thank you ? 

I have to overlap the new rafters that sit alongside the old as it's 6m, how much overlap would you suggest? 

As much as possible TBH. The more the better afaic, and if ordering the new timber at 4.8m then there's your overlap ( 6.0 - 4.8 = 1.2m tail end ). 

If ive got the right end of the stick that is ;)

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First issue uncovered.... See image 

The new rafters will sit on the right of the existing but there is a joist in the way.... However the joist sits on a steel so will it be ok? 

1489226575041639109568.jpg

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Ok. My question was aimed at if it was a boiler / fire ( aka deadly ) flue, I should have been clearer. ;)

I was just going to give you chapter and verse TBH, like stop denting / damaging it for one, but if it's just a humble extractor duct then it's not an issue. :)

Much better pic. If we can see the whole 'picture', the advice will be better ;)

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Yep keep going ..! I would go bolts at 600mm centers with Sabrefix washers and then if you really want to put a cripple stud from the  bottom of the rafter to the top of the joist. 

 

Nice that someone painted your steel with magnolia paint..... 

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First day completed without too much drama! Only managed to strip roof tiles s off, cut, fit and bolt  extra rafters x2 then cover in tarp cos it's gonna pee down tomorrow.... Grrrr

Thank you boys for all your help and advice, it really is appreciated.... X

PS. I'm trying really hard not to bother with all too much ?

Dee

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On 09/03/2017 at 20:11, RichS said:

 

Ha ha, not a problem.

Just as an aside, I don't know what you're cladding the dormer cheeks with (lead or tile hung or other) but if you simply nail another piece of timber to your outside spar you will have something to nail the main roof tile lath into where it butts up against the dormer. Yes it will carry without but it's a better job with.

Outside spar? Can you expand please? 

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20 hours ago, Simplysimon said:

hi @Dee,

 

when you seat cut rafter to joist, a good idea is to do it as a pole plate roof. a piece of 30x30mm housed half way at 90 deg across the joist and the other half housed into the underside of the rafter. this will stop any movement.

 

simon

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