Do this look right for fitting? Sound proofing is poor - why? Internorm windows. Cherwell.

[Gemmando]

We’ve just had Internorm windows fitted - they are Timer Aluminium HV450 so should offer sound reduction 41-46dB. They have replaced timber sash windows. I am attaching some fitting pictures as not yet plastered. Bought for sound proofing but disappointed in what they are giving. 
 

could anything have been done on the fitting to improve the sound proofing? We asked for best sound proofing tapes/materials. It is a huge amount on windows £ to not get what we wanted. 
 

They are not plastered yet - will this make a big difference? 
 

thanks everyone. 

[ToughButterCup]

4 minutes ago, Gemmando said:

...

They are not plastered yet - will this make a big difference? 
...

 

In our case, yes it did. 

@craig 'y boy will be along in a minute - he's got naff all else to do.....

(I'll get my coat )

[craig]

From what I can see in the pictures, it looks like they are using FM330 PU foam from Illbruck (could be Soudal), it looks as though they have not missed any spots. I do not know if they have used any compriband which is great for reducing sound as the sound doesn't just go through the window, it goes past the window (i.e. between frame and building). You'll have little to no foam at the packers (and is normal) but it is where the compriband comes into play.

 

What I see in above pictures doesn't look bad at all, actually a decent application but the foam needs tidied up now that it has stopped expanding before plastering. It will make a difference in sound reduction.

 

When are they coming back to finish?

 

12 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

@craig 'y boy will be along in a minute - he's got naff all else to do.....

 

You're correct, although I have just sat down in front of the PC. Opened emails and literally I got a notification and seen you had tagged me. I thought aww naw, what have I done now

Edited February 25, 2021 by craig

[Moonshine]

The expanding foam isn't good at stopping sound, and you are likely hearing a good deal of flanking noise coming round the window.

Once the plaster board is on and is sealed externally it will make a difference.

[Gemmando]

Thank you very much - it is a relief to hear that the plastering will make a difference and the drown of car engines may decrease. Plasterer coming Monday. I’m not sure on compriband

[MikeGrahamT21]

Best way to find out where the sound is coming from, length of rubber tube, one end in your ear, and the other end hunting for noise. Put a speaker outside the window if you have one, and play so white noise at high volume, and you'll find out where the sound is coming in.

 

Remember, soundproofing has much less of an effect on lower frequencies, so your boy racer sounds like likely still come through more so than a high frequency sound.

 

You've got plenty of gaps there between the cavity closer and the cavity? Ideally the cavity closer should be taped to the blockwork, to actually seal the cavity, and this will probably help massively. Foam looks a little light/non-existant between window and lintel, worth checking that its filled well before the plaster goes on.

 

Ensure the plasterer uses bonding coat and then skim coat, not plasterboard, this will have a much bigger effect on soundproofing

Edited February 25, 2021 by MikeGrahamT21

[Gemmando]

Thanks Mike this is really helpful. If I was going to buy some tape, to tape the cavity closer to the block work - what would you recommend?  I should also fill the holes then in the block work. What should I use? Trip to Screwfix coming. Thanks so much. 

[MikeGrahamT21]

12 minutes ago, Gemmando said:

Thanks Mike this is really helpful. If I was going to buy some tape, to tape the cavity closer to the block work - what would you recommend?  I should also fill the holes then in the block work. What should I use? Trip to Screwfix coming. Thanks so much. 

youll need to prime the blocks and then use tape which is flexible and has the ability to take plaster. I used the kit from airstop.co.uk which is quite cost effective.

 

don’t worry about any holes outside of this joint between the cavity closer and the blockwork , these will get filled with the basecoat plaster (bonding coat).

 

airtight tape is a specialist product, you won’t find it in screwfix.

 

Someone may be able to suggest another alternative, this was just the approach I used which worked well for sound proofing. 
 

as long as the cavity closer is solid, bonding coat will fill any voids and provide a good level of sound reduction.

[SimonD]

I've just installed windows using the Soudal SWS foam which has a sound insulation value of 60 dB - I've been quite impressed by how well the foam insulates for sound. I'd be surprised if the Illbruck was any worse.