Ways to fill gaps

[Jilly]

The new windows are great, but there are a lot of (some big) gaps between the ply (140mm block with external insulation covered with weatherboard).

 

I'm quite sure the builder will squirt foam in there, but it seems crap and unpredictable. Is that the only way? You can see right through to the external insulation in places.  

[Onoff]

Decent foam, done right? is alright. Compriband BEFORE the windows/doors go in is better. 

 

Is it all going to be airtight taped?

[Jilly]

Oh heck, done it again. My builder is clueless about all the things you lot worry about and I discover this things retrospectively. I've bought some Contega tape which a friend who has a Passivehouse recommended. What foams are the best as my builder will use nasty cheap stuff?

Edited January 18, 2021 by Jilly

[Onoff]

Illbruck is a name to conjure with. Really good stuff. They do airtight expanding foam and tape too similar to Compriband. <£10 a tin to go in a foam gun. A couple of quid cheaper you have Everbuild acoustic/airtight foam.

 

We have a "window" man on here, can't recall his name, Craig? 

 

 

[craig]

That's unfortunate and not a lot you can do with it now in all honesty. However, I would recommend squirting Illbruck FM330 in the gaps and on the inner side 15mm - 7/12 TP600 compriband. You can't do a lot at the blocks other than trim the compriband. Then over that I would apply ME508 airtightness tape. I would also suggest buying ME902 primer before sticking the airtightness tape onto the blockwork.

He has something running up vertically, not sure what type of tape it is but it doesn't look like it is doing anything tbh.

Edited January 18, 2021 by craig

[Ronan 1]

Gents on this does the window company usually take care of the air tightness sealing and tape when they are on a supply and install contract ??

[TonyT]

24 minutes ago, craig said:

That's unfortunate and not a lot you can do with it now in all honesty. However, I would recommend squirting Illbruck FM330 in the gaps and on the inner side 15mm - 7/12 TP600 compriband. You can't do a lot at the blocks other than trim the compriband. Then over that I would apply ME508 airtightness tape. I would also suggest buying ME902 primer before sticking the airtightness tape onto the blockwork.

He has something running up vertically, not sure what type of tape it is but it doesn't look like it is doing anything tbh.

Looks like it’s the external facade wrap

[craig]

2 minutes ago, Ronan 1 said:

Gents on this does the window company usually take care of the air tightness sealing and tape when they are on a supply and install contract ??

 

They should. Depends on what the package being offered indicates, some may not take this on at all.

[Ronan 1]

3 minutes ago, craig said:

 

They should. Depends on what the package being offered indicates, some may not take this on at all.

That's great thanks, I'll know to make sure it's included now, the last time I got windows fitted there was no talk about air tightness ?

Edited January 18, 2021 by Ronan 1

[Jilly]

Nope there's been no talk of airtightness, looks like we don't need the trickle vents!

 

I'm going to talk to the builder and maybe do this bit myself with foam, tape and primer...

Edited January 19, 2021 by Jilly

[Onoff]

Nobody seen White Gold? (Netflix). Never a truer word said. I recall when having "double glazing" fitted to your house was a status thing. Windows being made deliberately undersized by a country mile to speed up the install. Bloody great gaps left covers with wood trim or upvc strip mitred bonded on. No expanding foam as that would have held the job up. The draughts around the outside made the windows probably less airtight that the old wooden ones taken out. Clearly it still goes on today. 

 

I've a number of ill fitting 2G windows to rectify as I go. The couple I've bought and fitted myself have been fitted with foam and/or Compriband. The difference is very noticeable in terms of draughts and noise reduction to those with giant gaps.

 

See the trim at the top:

 

 

20mm gap and the top. Sides and bottom similar:

 

 

 

Gap at the bottom when the sill was removed:

 

 

 

Animals!

Edited January 19, 2021 by Onoff

[TonyT]

The installers were on price work, it’s to be expected ( unfortunately)

[Jilly]

Just spoken to ills brook, they are going to put me on to their specialist, but i need to diagnose there the leak is coming from (its not obvious) as the foam will eventually break down if it gets wet.

[craig]

1 hour ago, Jilly said:

Just spoken to ills brook, they are going to put me on to their specialist, but i need to diagnose there the leak is coming from (its not obvious) as the foam will eventually break down if it gets wet.

 

Was it Glenn?