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Posted

Is it me ?

Does a 15mm Hep2o to 3/4” bsp bent tap connector not exist ?

Can find 22mm and to 1/2” . Perhaps everyone bought them before the virus !

Posted (edited)

Doesn’t exist !

So will need to go 22mm Hep2o to 3/4” Male straight connector . Then 22mm Hep2o reducer to 15mm

Seems daft . Guess there must be some historic reason .

Edited by pocster
Posted

Because you don’t normally connect 3/4” taps to 15mm pipe. 
 

That is basically a bath tap connector you’re talking about. Can get it as a straight connector and use a stem elbow or  Use a 22mm fitting with a 15mm stem reducer  

Posted
  On 07/04/2020 at 18:25, PeterW said:

Because you don’t normally connect 3/4” taps to 15mm pipe. 
 

That is basically a bath tap connector you’re talking about. Can get it as a straight connector and use a stem elbow or  Use a 22mm fitting with a 15mm stem reducer  

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It’s for a thermostatic shower .

I’ve quickly looked at a ‘stem’ fittings don’t get how that works / fits . ?

Posted (edited)
  On 07/04/2020 at 18:45, PeterW said:

So you use a 22mm elbow and shove one of those in and you now have 15mm

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-stem-coupler-f-15mm-x-m-22mm/8401f

 

Or you use a 3/4 to 15mm Titan and then use one of these. 
 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-equal-90-stem-elbow-15mm/8137f

 

The straight bit goes where the pipe normally goes in a standard connector ..??

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So the 1st ‘stem’ one you link is just a reducer then ?

 

So I’ll still need some 22mm pipe and inserts ?

Edited by pocster
Posted

Yes assuming the shower has a 3/4” female connection ..? You said tap connector which is the opposite to that 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 07/04/2020 at 19:27, PeterW said:

Yes assuming the shower has a 3/4” female connection ..? You said tap connector which is the opposite to that 

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I did sorry , yes . Shower is female .

Didn’t know you could do this with Hep2o , guess it saves having 22mm pipe and inserts to join it all together !

Posted (edited)
  On 07/04/2020 at 21:33, Barney12 said:

My showers had the same 3/4” female. 
 

Its a lot simpler, cheaper (and tidier) just to make the direct connections in copper and then join to hep2o with a coupler.

 

This: https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/82086

and a length of 15mm copper pipe. Add a 90 to the copper run if it suits the install. 

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Yeah ; I thought of this - certainly would be cheaper . Other issue was I have to do something similar at the other end I.e connecting to shower head - stem then wall plate .

Parts ordered now .

Whilst I’ve been trying to avoid joints think I’ll have to in order to get the water in pipes to connect to thermostatic valve - 90 degree tees I guess .

No way they are going to bend that tight ( nor do I want to try ! )

97198710-D287-42AF-89EC-985B99E73A75.jpeg

Edited by pocster
Posted

I'm sure I've shown this picture before. But I had the exact same issue. So i use 3/4 bsp male to 15mm compression, which I joined on to 15mm hep2o elbows. Make sure you use copper olives, not brass ones.......brass will not work, its just too stiff.

 

To test the system I attached spare hep2o shutoff valves to all the outlets and let the system come up to mains pressure and left for a day to see if anything dripped.......it did drip....from the 3/4bsp. They take alot of tape. 

 

Also, don't make my mistake. I made the central space for my shower valve too wide. So the ply on the left which was for the shower screen to have something substantial to mount to is too far over. The stud needed to be at least another 50mm to the right.

6480f283-5ab1-4519-b864-c79d0b4056d9 (2).jpg

  • Thanks 1
Posted
  On 08/04/2020 at 10:16, AdamSee said:

 

To test the system I attached spare hep2o shutoff valves to all the outlets and let the system come up to mains pressure and left for a day to see if anything dripped.......it did drip....from the 3/4bsp. They take alot of tape. 

 

 

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I always use Loctite 55 on brass to brass threads. Brilliant stuff. And WRAS approved. 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 08/04/2020 at 11:24, tommyt said:

I always use Loctite 55 on brass to brass threads. Brilliant stuff. And WRAS approved. 

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Think I'm going to have to try that on a fitting that I left dripping for the last year. The water is really hard here and usually weeping joins eventually stop after a while, bit it didn't in this case. Great for dealing with dogey plumbing. Not so great for the kettle or when you want to close the stop cock in a rush.

  • Like 1
Posted

+1 to using anaerobic sealant.  I discovered the Screwfix  Liquid PTFE, a few years ago.  Works exactly like Loctite sealant, even smells the same, and gives a guaranteed watertight seal every time.  My only gripe is that the bottle is a PITA to use, as the stuff is a bit too thick to pour, so you end up having to really squish the bottle to get the stuff out: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 09/04/2020 at 07:40, Jeremy Harris said:

+1 to using anaerobic sealant.  I discovered the Screwfix  Liquid PTFE, a few years ago.  Works exactly like Loctite sealant, even smells the same, and gives a guaranteed watertight seal every time.  My only gripe is that the bottle is a PITA to use, as the stuff is a bit too thick to pour, so you end up having to really squish the bottle to get the stuff out: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j

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that’s where the 55 cord is so much better, it’s a breeze to wrap a bit of cord around the thread and hey presto. 
 

I agree wit the liquid stuff. The loctite version has a bellows style bottle but it’s still genuinely annoying :) 

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