Eddie2k Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 (edited) Since I moved into my new build no one has ever explained how my heating system works and the settings have been left unchanged since it was commissioned. I'm finding that in the evening the heating can take over an hour to go up by 1° and sometimes struggles at all to get up to temperature at all and can drop below the low threshold. Each zone in the house is set to 22° and is set to always on. Im using a Panasonic Heatpump WH-MDC12G6E5 (I have been told this system is overkill for the size of house- 169m2 Detached bungalow) There is also a Paul MVHR system installed due to being a passive house which I thought was maybe causing the system to go below the low threshold but on turning it off the heating drops further and rises sharply when turned back on. My query is everything Ok with the controller settings and set up as a whole. The timer is set to come on 0600 - 1400 each day and then off the rest of the day. Is the temperatures displayed on the controller optimal? Ill upload some photos of my setup and some settings - Any info at all would be greatful. Edited March 17, 2020 by Eddie2k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 We have ours set to come on at 06:00 and off at 21:00 When on it's under the control of the room thermostats. What temperature is the water flowing in the UFH pipes? Is there a temperature gauge on the manifold? (I think that is a pressure gauge at the right) Low temperature UFH will only heat up slowly, that's why ours comes on at 06:00 Is the house really passive house standard or is that an off the cuff statement? I am not sure what the controller is saying when it says "outdoor 50 degrees" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie2k Posted March 17, 2020 Author Share Posted March 17, 2020 (edited) Most likely an off the cuff statement from the builders to me as to why the MVHR was needed. The mixer at the manifold is set at 53/54 (You're right - Pressure gauge on the right) The last picture of the controller is saying the Tank is at 50°c so does that mean that is the supply temp to the UFH? Would I be right in thinking the bigger of the two tanks is the DHW and the smaller is for the UFH? My other question regarding the timing - If anyone has any knowledge of the controller does it have a set desired temperature that will shut off the heat pump when it's reached. Currently my electric bill is roughly £5 per day but I'm unsure if this is good or not. My temperature settings are in red settings below Edited March 17, 2020 by Eddie2k Adding more info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Those default settings are "weather compensation" so when it's -5 degrees outside it runs the heating at 55 degrees, but when the outside temperature is 15 degrees the heating will only run at 35 degrees. In addition there is a thermostatic mixer valve on the UFH manifold just under the pump. That will regulate the maximum temperature that is delivered to the actual UFH pipes. It is normal to have a thermometer somewhere near the pump to see what temperature you have it set too. You can get a good idea how hot the UFH water is by just feeling the pipes going down into the floor. Anything less than 40 degrees will feel cool or tepid. If it feels "hot" it is probably approaching 50 degrees. The big tank is the HW tank, the small tank is a buffer tank for the UFH. It looks a well done instalation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSharp01 Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 1 hour ago, ProDave said: "outdoor 50 degrees" Maybe it can predict the future - given that the way things are anything can happen in the next half hour! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Eddie2k said: Currently my electric bill is roughly £5 per day but I'm unsure if this is good or not. Do you know the square meter size of your home? Also what energy performance score did the property get on completion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taff Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 When it was commissioned, did they (the installer/commissioner) not show you how things work. It says on my paper work that at time of commissioning I will be taken through the setup and given a lesson in its use. I flipping hope so cos it looks sooooooo complex looking at your picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taff Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Is that tank 300 ltr? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 The only complicated thing is the control unit most ASHP manufacturers supply. They are needed for setting up system parameters like flow temperatures and options. It looks as though that setup has a conventional central heating type programmer next to it. This is what I normally do and did with ours. Although you can usually set timing functions with the ASHP programmer, they are often fiendishly complicated and nobody understands them. So having a conventional heating programmer just for the on off timing makes a great deal of sense, Then you never need to touch the ASHP's own programmer other than for curiosity. Make sure the installer records in the instruction book ALL the parameters that they have changed from the default settings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie2k Posted March 17, 2020 Author Share Posted March 17, 2020 3 hours ago, Taff said: Is that tank 300 ltr? It's a 305L and 130L buffer tank. 3 hours ago, Taff said: When it was commissioned, did they (the installer/commissioner) not show you how things work. It says on my paper work that at time of commissioning I will be taken through the setup and given a lesson in its use. I flipping hope so cos it looks sooooooo complex looking at your picture. I noticed this question had been answered "YES' on my MCS Compliance Certification but none had ever been explained 'Have the implications of the system design on the costs associated with providing space heating and domestic hot water to the building been explained in writing to the owner?' 4 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said: Do you know the square meter size of your home? Also what energy performance score did the property get on completion? Going by their calculations around about £4 is about right 3 hours ago, ProDave said: The only complicated thing is the control unit most ASHP manufacturers supply. They are needed for setting up system parameters like flow temperatures and options. It looks as though that setup has a conventional central heating type programmer next to it. This is what I normally do and did with ours. Although you can usually set timing functions with the ASHP programmer, they are often fiendishly complicated and nobody understands them. So having a conventional heating programmer just for the on off timing makes a great deal of sense, Then you never need to touch the ASHP's own programmer other than for curiosity. Make sure the installer records in the instruction book ALL the parameters that they have changed from the default settings. The Newlec 7 day programmer to the right hand side of the ASHP controller is some how connected to the thermostat wiring centre so it is set to 'Always On' as I was told it's best to keep the UFH on 24/7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taff Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 Have you got your updated sap report? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 17, 2020 Share Posted March 17, 2020 EPC C76 is far from being a passive house.with a primary energy need of 29,406kWh per year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddie2k Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 14 hours ago, Taff said: Have you got your updated sap report? I haven't had any other paper work since moving in - What would be on it? 14 hours ago, ProDave said: EPC C76 is far from being a passive house.with a primary energy need of 29,406kWh per year. That's good to know. Does all the settings and temperatures look to be normal then? I'll change the heating schedule so that it is similar to yours and see if that helps the heating in the evening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 23 minutes ago, Eddie2k said: I haven't had any other paper work since moving in - What would be on it? That's good to know. Does all the settings and temperatures look to be normal then? I'll change the heating schedule so that it is similar to yours and see if that helps the heating in the evening As we now know the not a passive house, then you need the heating on until probably 8 or 9pm If it goes off at 2pm it is no surprise it is getting a bit cool in the evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taff Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 You would need to be reassessed I guess, they will then reissue an updated sap report ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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