Trw144 Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I have an element of plastering that needs doing that has just a dawned on me is likely to crack if just done with normal plaster. I ve sketched a side profile of the detail below. Essentially the question is the the plasterboard - it is bound to flex slightly as the glass will and therefore I am worried about cracking. Is it possible to buy plaster that will cope with this movement or is there another option - mdf etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Can't you create a metal upstand in front of the glass and bond the PB to that so its isolated from movement. Allow 3-4mm gap and job done. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 And if the shit hits the fan use this stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Yes, I guess I could. Presumably I could even make it from mdf as finding someone to make it in would would be easier (and cheaper) than a metal fabricator. Some flexible silicone would do for the gap to allow tiny moevement but a flush finish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 You'll see the edges through the glass. Can it be viewed from the left of your drawing? Id use a chrome / stainless U channel to take the return against the glass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 What exactly is this? Balustrade or balcony / other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) It's my landing balustrade, I ll take some on site picture tomorrow but I m with you in thinking a structure that is fixed beneath the glass but not directly onto the glass Should nt see the glass as I have put a white vinyl on the outer edges of the glass beneath floor height, precisely for that reason. Edited October 19, 2016 by Trw144 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 (edited) Will the landing floor be wood? Then i would put the same wood on the top edge of the plasterboard on the other side of the glass so that it looks like it disappears into the floor. Otherwise either a thin mastic bead, or maybe you can put an edge profile on the plasterboard and leave it a couple of mm shy of the glass, like you were doing a shadow gap. Small enough not to see into it but just enough for flexing. Looking again at the pics. Have you considered using battening out the wall so that it goes straight up across the glass. I would think that will look neater and less like something has been boxed in. Edited October 20, 2016 by AliG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 19 minutes ago, AliG said: Will the landing floor be wood? Then i would put the same wood on the top edge of the plasterboard on the other side of the glass so that it looks like it disappears into the floor + Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 2 hours ago, AliG said: Looking again at the pics. Have you considered using battening out the wall so that it goes straight up across the glass. I would think that will look neater and less like something has been boxed in. Can you expand on this? What I was concerned on doing was sticking any battening onto the glass as it will inevitably move, along with the plasterboard fixed to it so this will cause a crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 This is what I want to achieve... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Looking at it again tonight I m not sure if I m worrying about nothing. Whilst their is a little bit of play at the top of the glass due to its height, the bottom seems pretty well braced so not sure if it would cause an issue if I battened straight onto it or not. Any one with any experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliG Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 (edited) I literally just got the quote for my stairs and the balustrade is attached the same way as yours and the guy proposed putting wood to match the floor on top. I am looking at the construction drawings now and they don't have a batten at the top. The batten sits below the glass and leaves the plasterboard sitting in front of the glass not attached to anything.That way there would probably be a little gap that would allow for the tiny amount of movement in the glass. That's what I was suggesting before. Take off the plasterboard you have up and put on battens so that the plasterboard goes right up across the glass fixings. Of course you will need either longer plasterboard or you put a join in somewhere lower. The top of the board would be a few hundred mm above the top batten, but I think it would be stiff enough to hold its shape. You would probably want to put a square edge or wood on top to get a nice finish. You would maybe need to cut small recesses in it for the bolt heads, otherwise you will definitely need to attach something to the top to cover the gap, but I think that could be achieved without actually attaching the top edge to the glass. Edited October 20, 2016 by AliG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Can I throw in a totally different suggestion? Take the glass off (yes I know you probably don't want to) Cover the wooden joists with something nice looking (like the white vinyl) and put the glass back. Then you leave the lower edge of the glass and it's fixing bolts on show and you see through the glass to a nice finished surface on the joists behind it. Then just the ceiling gets plasterboarded with some form of stop bead to finish in line with the edge of the joists leaving the bottom of the glass exposed. Crisp clean and honest architecture. Nothing to crack or move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 17 hours ago, Trw144 said: This is what I want to achieve... Wouldn't buying that house have been so much easier ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 5 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Wouldn't buying that house have been so much easier ? Possibly but you d be bored without my questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted October 21, 2016 Author Share Posted October 21, 2016 20 minutes ago, ProDave said: Can I throw in a totally different suggestion? Take the glass off (yes I know you probably don't want to) Cover the wooden joists with something nice looking (like the white vinyl) and put the glass back. Then you leave the lower edge of the glass and it's fixing bolts on show and you see through the glass to a nice finished surface on the joists behind it. Then just the ceiling gets plasterboarded with some form of stop bead to finish in line with the edge of the joists leaving the bottom of the glass exposed. Crisp clean and honest architecture. Nothing to crack or move. I ve never liked the look of the fixing bolts to be honest so want them covered. Last time I used a white powder coated trim piece but I prefer it to match the plaster/walls around it this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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