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Temporary lighting


Triassic

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12 minutes ago, Triassic said:

As the days get shorter I need to install temporary igniting inside my new build.  I have a halogen flood light, what do others use?

Depends how many rooms you need to light. Luckily I have access to lots of lighting samples that we get given for approval on projects etc. by manufacturers. 

 

I like linear LED products, the stuff I use is more designed for offices and commercial spaces so it is quite decorative but a 2m long LED product with 6000 lumens works fine regardless of the pretty package it is in!

 

I also use non-corrosive LED battens. You can pick them up cheaply enough, at the end of the build install them in a garage or shed or something, or if you end up with loads tell people on here about them and they may sell for someone else in the same situation. Just wire them up to a temp lighting supply or if you have power just use plugs on them.

 

 

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On the topic of linear LED lights, I bought some diffused LED lights that look a bit like fluorescent tubes that I'm really impressed with.  I fitted them in my workshop, to replace LED strip, and they are far brighter than I expected and have a really even spread of light.  The can be daisy chained together, too, so the power lead can be plugged in at one end and additional lights just connected by clipping them together.  They fix to the ceiling with clear plastic snap-in clips, so are dead easy to install.

 

 

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Just thought of this: normal mains LEDs (e.g, MR16s with GU10 connectors) have somewhat crude switch mode power supplies in them so presumably produce continuous output. AIUI, filament LEDs, on the other hand, have a lot of individual LEDs in series and work at full mains voltage so I assume they flicker at 50 or 100 Hz (depending on whether there's a bridge rectifier upstream of them). Does that make them unsuitable for use in workshops with rotating machinery (strobe effects making running tools look stopped, etc)?

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I used a 1200x300 LED panel which was just on an extension lead - worked brilliantly (pardon the pun...)

 

Screwfix now do a clamp on LED floodlight which is pretty good too.

 

Festoons work ok, but unless you get expensive 110v High Output LED bulbs they aren't good as task lighting.

 

1 hour ago, dpmiller said:

nothing halogen for sure...

how temporary? portable or fixed?

 

Halogens do have a benefit of also giving off some heat which can be useful in certain circumstances.

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1 hour ago, Ed Davies said:

Is “non-corrosive” another auto-correct? Whatever, what does it mean?

No, it's a type of luminaire often used in plant areas, damp/dusty or potentially impact zones, tunnels, shed, garages, warehouses and sites. It's good on sites where dust and mechanical impact may be an issue - was more of an issue when we used T12/8/5 lamps but the luminaire style is still very common. Made entirely of non-corrosive materials, often all plastics - sometimes metal with paint finishes but not common. The 180° diffuser also helps with ligt distribution and on good model incorporates a micro-prismatic or Fresnel optic to aid in light distribution while reducing glariness such as is found on opal diffuser models.  

Edited by Carrerahill
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1 hour ago, Ed Davies said:

Just thought of this: normal mains LEDs (e.g, MR16s with GU10 connectors) have somewhat crude switch mode power supplies in them so presumably produce continuous output. AIUI, filament LEDs, on the other hand, have a lot of individual LEDs in series and work at full mains voltage so I assume they flicker at 50 or 100 Hz (depending on whether there's a bridge rectifier upstream of them). Does that make them unsuitable for use in workshops with rotating machinery (strobe effects making running tools look stopped, etc)?

 

It depends on the quality - filament style LED arrays are more for GLS replacement LED lamps - almost all of these have a crude LED driver, or simply a current limiting circuit with no rectification and often fail before the LED's. None of these products would be suited to a workshop anyway - no one would really choose a GU10 or B22d or E(S)27 fitting for a garage or workshop although I am sure in domestic applications an old light will be re-purposed - in which case bite the bullet and run an incandescent lamp in it. 

 

Proper LED products of good quality and indeed a proper product designed with an LED board in mind (not a retro-fit situation which are dire) often utilise a propriety LED board such as the Tridonic Talex boards and a matched Tridonic driver the output will be DC therefore there will be no flicker obviously. 

 

If you go down to a local wholesaler, Ed's, CEF etc. and ask for a LED fitting, the chances are you will end up with a fairly cheap (maybe not in terms of what you pay mind you!) LED fitting, still with a whisp of sea air on them, which have recently come in from the far east. They will have a crude on board driver or a very very crude little driver usually potted with no information on them. Commercial life - often as short as 8 months - domestic garage not being used often - potentially 20 years.

 

Here is an example of decent quality (yet not the best) LED lighting suitable for workshops and warehouses and are fitted up and down the length of the country:

 

https://www.whitecroftlighting.com/products/indoor/industrial/    - note their ACL Industry - that is an example of a non-corrosive. 

 

I have these in my garage, 8000 & 10,000 lumen versions: https://www.zumtobel.com/gb-en/products/amphibia.html?&GUID=55A35931-A196-4728-9559-BE773F1B00C3#AMPHIBIA PC Wide Beam   - they would run to about £245.00 each from a wholesaler - however these were left over from a mock-up of a plant room for an NHS trust approval session. 

 

Issue is the most basic product from the likes of Whitecroft in this range is probably £150.00 - however, that is small change to a school or warehouse etc. who need a product to go in and run 12-24hours a day for 10 years while burning 30w. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Carrerahill
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