Onoff

Gothic Gate Hinges

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Wasn't sure where to put this...

 

These are the hinges in the church where we got married:

 

SAM_8484

 

 

I'd like to get 4 made up in stainless steel that will offset nicely against the satin black woodwork of my sliding gate, So mock hinges in effect. I'll probably have them done in 5mm stainless steel, laser or water jet cut whatever is cheapest. I'd like to go thicker but the gate is heavy enough already. Aluminium maybe but then I'd have to pay to anodize them. Yet to decide on a design for a mock lock, centrepiece. Really I guess it should compliment the hinge design?

 

SAM_8558

 

I'll fit them just inboard of the red brick pillars currently under construction:

 

I'll aim to use the existing stainless coach bolts to secure them, a little longer if necessary.

 

I'm wondering if the above hinge picture is a candidate for trying raster to vector conversion software (spoken about elsewher on here the other day) to produce a DXF? Or do I want to just import into AutoCAD as it's own layer and "trace" the outline so they're symmetrical?

 

As an aside, when looking for ready made DXFs I came across this site, lots of good stuff on there:

 

https://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-patterns/builders-hardware-patterns.html

 

Edited by Onoff

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54 minutes ago, Onoff said:

I'm wondering if the above hinge picture is a candidate for trying raster to vector conversion software (spoken about elsewher on here the other day) to produce a DXF? Or do I want to just import into AutoCAD as it's own layer and "trace" the outline so they're symmetrical?

 

I'd say import and trace. Raster to vector will probably give you a lot of artifact lines around the flash flare, wood grain, etc which you will have to tidy up by hand, and will probably treat the curves as lots of very short lines (which may not all quite meet due to shadow effects and approximation). I think that would all have to be tidied up before a CNC production.

 

As it's a fairly simple shape, tracing it with straight and spline line sections will probably give a neater result more rapidly and, as you say, allow you to make it symmetrical.

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Take a look through some old YouTube episodes of the Addams Family and you will get some great gate ideas and how to dress the rest of the place so it looks like the family that lives there is really 'out there'. 

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1 hour ago, andyscotland said:

 

I'd say import and trace. Raster to vector will probably give you a lot of artifact lines around the flash flare, wood grain, etc which you will have to tidy up by hand, and will probably treat the curves as lots of very short lines (which may not all quite meet due to shadow effects and approximation). I think that would all have to be tidied up before a CNC production.

 

As it's a fairly simple shape, tracing it with straight and spline line sections will probably give a neater result more rapidly and, as you say, allow you to make it symmetrical.

 

Yep, tried an online jpeg to dxf converter, awful results!

 

I'll trace say the top half about an estimated centre line, then mirror it. That'll keep some of the irregular "character".

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19 minutes ago, MikeSharp01 said:

Take a look through some old YouTube episodes of the Addams Family and you will get some great gate ideas and how to dress the rest of the place so it looks like the family that lives there is really 'out there'. 

 

That's exactly the F*** OFF, if you get in you won't get out look we're going for! I still want Alien Queen figures wrapped around the pillars.....

 

 

  • Haha 1

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39 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Yep, tried an online jpeg to dxf converter, awful results!

 

I'll trace say the top half about an estimated centre line, then mirror it. That'll keep some of the irregular "character".

 

Yep, I think definitely easier to put the character back in than take it out. Presumably as well if you're going laser cut you'll just get it with straight edges and will then want to chamfer / round them to be more like the original, in which case you could also add some character as you finish it?

 

Alternatively if you want to really keep it characterful you could try tracing the photo in pencil, then scan that and run it through a DXF converter? They'll probably do better at interpreting a line drawing and will give the straight lines & curves a bit more of an "artisanal" feel.

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8 hours ago, andyscotland said:

 

Yep, I think definitely easier to put the character back in than take it out. Presumably as well if you're going laser cut you'll just get it with straight edges and will then want to chamfer / round them to be more like the original, in which case you could also add some character as you finish it?

 

Alternatively if you want to really keep it characterful you could try tracing the photo in pencil, then scan that and run it through a DXF converter? They'll probably do better at interpreting a line drawing and will give the straight lines & curves a bit more of an "artisanal" feel.

 

Happy I think with square edges. Just seems wrong taking a grinder to the edges of something that's just been laser cut. Might go water jet or even plasma depending on price.

 

I was half thinking to import the sh!tty jpeg to dxf/dwg and use it as a rough guide. Straight lines are easy and for the curves thinking 3 point arcs picking up on "whatever" from the multitude of broken lines.

 

Ideally want it done by 25th of this month...unlikely! 😂

 

Might have a crack in a minute but this Mythos is going down well at the mo...

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Laser?...

https://www.lasermaster.co.uk

See the submit a drawing link.

 

I entered 500mm x 150mm 3mm SS and quantity of four and an oval shape and it said £84 total. Not sure what set up costs would be for a custom design.

Edited by Temp
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3 minutes ago, Temp said:

Laser?...

https://www.lasermaster.co.uk

See the submit a drawing link.

 

Forgot about them  I'll give them a try thanks.

 

I've local contacts who do plasma, laser, water. Often I can get stuff done at mate's rates but I have to wait until they can tag it onto something. 

 

As an aside I recently got a load fixings re-plated for an R1, free, but again had to wait.

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No CAD last night, omfg the headache that came on. Like something trying to get out!

 

Not sure if it was cutting bricks with the Evolution saw, cutting stainless plate for lintels with the 9" grinder or the Mythos that did it.....

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You only have to draw half of it in CAD, then mirror it.

Just make sure you draw the top half, not the left hand side.

Rotating  it 90° anti-clock, it looks more phallic than gothic.

 

nob hinge.jpg

Edited by SteamyTea

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8 minutes ago, SteamyTea said:

You only have to draw half of it in CAD, then mirror it.

 Wot I said...

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