daiking Posted August 5, 2019 Posted August 5, 2019 Got some gaps to fill: 1) around waste pipes going going through external wall 2) copper pipes going through a stud wall Foam? Acrylic? Silicon type? Next, there’s a 2 switch grid switch isolator thing supplying 2 sockets beneath counter level. One switch/socket doesn’t work. Can the 2 switch isolator be swapped for a high enough rated single isolator switch and then use the cable to the working wall socket and replace the single with a doubleskt? And just blank off the defective one? This is to run the washing machine and tumble dryer - (otherwise the appliances will run off a double extension in the working socket.) The ufh manifold sticks off the wall. A base unit is going in front of it. Most of the back of the unit will need to be removed. Is there anything I need to do in the unit after fitting to make sure it runs ok? Ventilation? Protection to prevent damage/interference? where the services run along the wall near the floor, I am intending to silicon some 20mm aluminium angle to the floor in lieu of a skirting board. Sound reasonable? (It will flood into the rest of the house anyway) The existing waste pipe will need modifying for a sink but I need to speak to the fitter first as to what he is willing to do Hopefully photos make sense.
daiking Posted August 5, 2019 Author Posted August 5, 2019 (edited) A problem solved. One of the switches is defective. The ones with the scorch marks is the one that is working ? going to replace both ? Edited August 5, 2019 by daiking
ProDave Posted August 5, 2019 Posted August 5, 2019 If those 2 single sockets are expected to feed kitchen appliances (washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer) you are likely going to be disappointed that the appliances won't go back into their recess far enough because of those pipes passing behind them. An annoyance if they are free standing, fatal if they are built in.
daiking Posted August 5, 2019 Author Posted August 5, 2019 3 minutes ago, ProDave said: If those 2 single sockets are expected to feed kitchen appliances (washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer) you are likely going to be disappointed that the appliances won't go back into their recess far enough because of those pipes passing behind them. An annoyance if they are free standing, fatal if they are built in. They don’t fit, they’re standalone, it’s not the end of the world ?♂️
daiking Posted August 5, 2019 Author Posted August 5, 2019 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: screws not tight enough. I swapped them round, the unmarked one just didn’t want to work. All that jazz in a 25mm back box as well, amateurs.
daiking Posted August 5, 2019 Author Posted August 5, 2019 https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-1-way-20a-dp-grid-switch-white/47279 1 way 20A DP is correct? These existing ones are CED (shit)
Onoff Posted August 6, 2019 Posted August 6, 2019 You may need the MK grid plate too if looking to change the duff DP grid switch from CED to MK and of course a second MK DP switch to match. It's good practice (as in it's in the electricians guides to building regs) for future reference, to have 100mm clear from the underside of a socket to say worktop (or in this case pipe) so the cable coming out of the plugtop is not unduly bent.
daiking Posted August 6, 2019 Author Posted August 6, 2019 Obvs on the grid and plate. height is fine it’s the plumbing that messes up that space for the white sockets filling that plaster hole will be fun too ?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now