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Snags before units fitted


daiking

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Got some gaps to fill:

 

1) around waste pipes going going through external wall

 

2) copper pipes going through a stud wall

 

Foam? Acrylic? Silicon type?

 

Next, there’s a 2 switch grid switch isolator thing supplying 2 sockets beneath counter level. One switch/socket doesn’t work. Can the 2 switch isolator be swapped for a high enough rated single isolator switch and then use the cable to the working wall socket and replace the single with a doubleskt? And just blank off the defective one? This is to run the washing machine and tumble dryer - (otherwise the appliances will run off a double extension in the working socket.)

 

The ufh manifold sticks off the wall. A base unit is going in front of it. Most of the back of the unit will need to be removed. Is there anything I need to do in the unit after fitting to make sure it runs ok? Ventilation? Protection to prevent damage/interference?

 

where the services run along the wall near the floor, I am intending to silicon some 20mm aluminium angle to the floor in lieu of a skirting board. Sound reasonable? (It will flood into the rest of the house anyway)

 

The existing waste pipe will need modifying for a sink but I need to speak to the fitter first as to what he is willing to do

 

Hopefully photos make sense.

 

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If those 2 single sockets are expected to feed kitchen appliances (washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer) you are likely going to be disappointed that the appliances won't go back into their recess far enough because of those pipes passing behind them.

 

An annoyance if they are free standing, fatal if they are built in.

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3 minutes ago, ProDave said:

If those 2 single sockets are expected to feed kitchen appliances (washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer) you are likely going to be disappointed that the appliances won't go back into their recess far enough because of those pipes passing behind them.

 

An annoyance if they are free standing, fatal if they are built in.

 

They don’t fit, they’re standalone, it’s not the end of the world ?‍♂️

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You may need the MK grid plate too if looking to change the duff DP grid switch from CED to MK and of course a second MK DP switch to match.

 

It's good practice (as in it's in the electricians guides to building regs) for future reference, to have 100mm clear from the underside of a socket to say worktop (or in this case pipe) so the cable coming out of the plugtop is not unduly bent.

 

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