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Monobloc tap connectors


JanetE

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We've got this continental tap with these connectors and I'm struggling to work out how to connect them to our hep20 pipework. They are 10mm. I've tried the hep20 connectors the metal is too hard and they don't work.

Suggestions gratefully received. 

IMG_20160919_113815698.jpg

Edited by JanetE
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Thanks Peter, I've already advised Jan that you can use any push fit connectors with chromed fitting as the chrome surface is too hard fro the steel ring to bite.  I've also read compression fitting work OK, but that you should use brass olives and PTFE. 

 

We've got 5 basins in the new house with M10 monoblock mixers and the connections for 4 of these are hidden by boxing -in or semi-pedestals.  The last has a bottom hung shower mixer on it, so the chromed M10 connectors will be visible so we've been looking for something like this (though this one is designed for PEX):

PEX-234_70_pdetail_lrg.jpg

The valve isn't really necessary since the other end is connected to a HEP2O manifold, but it's the general look that we are seeking.

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11 hours ago, JanetE said:

We've got this continental tap with these connectors and I'm struggling to work out how to connect them to our hep20 pipework. They are 10mm. I've tried the hep20 connectors the metal is too hard and they don't work.

Suggestions gratefully received. 

IMG_20160919_113815698.jpg

Just bin those and buy some standard flexis ?

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  • 1 year later...

A year later and we are just finishing the fit out of or last ensuite, and we have the issue of what to do to finish the Duravent wall hung basin. We chose a one that doesn't come with a semi-pedestal, because Jan has chosen a monobloc tap with hand shower attachment.   So now we have an immaculate wetroom ensuite with the guts of the under-basin exposed.  We've got a nice smart chrome waste, and we are now faced with the challenge of how to mount flexible tap connectors to the supply without the overall effect looking totally naff.  The best way if I had thought this through properly would have been to terminated the 15mm tails with a pair of tile-flush  ½" BSP female tap connectors and use a pair of the vales shown below  (or the like ). However,  I don't have a Tardis and the tiling has been done so there is no simple way to add one even if we use a deeper cover plate. 

QS-V79106_1_lg.jpg

So the only thing that I can think of is using a pairs of the shower plate mounts that slip over the 15mm tails and present a pair of ¾" BSP male heads. I can get 10mm × ½" BSP female flexible connectors and also a pair of 90° ¾" BSP female to  ½" BSP male chrome elbow, but I feel that this will still look naff. 

 

Has anyone, esp the Welsh wizard (a.k.a. @Nickfromwales) have a better idea.

 

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Sorry @TerryE, I replied on my iPhone but never pressed 'post'....I'm a wally. 

I meant to ask for a pic of what you have so I can advise, but @Temp has posted a good solution if it means it's the only option left. I never make a compression fitting off onto plastic tbh, but if it's the only real solution then you've not much choice. 

Pic please ! :)

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Jan and I agreed on using copper tails of of the wall, but had a big deal debate over whether to use a hep2O area straight coupler and a copper tall with and end feed elbow, or a hep2O elbow. Guess who won? So now I have discovered the big downside of Jan's keep-it-simple approach: it's bloody impossible to use a pipe cutter to trim the tail to length.  I kept the excess to a few cms to keep the walls as clear as possible for the plasterers and the tiler, but when you try to use a pipe cutter, then the tail just twists at the other end in the hep2O connector, and I don't have enough protruding beyond the cutter to grip it and stop it turning with the cutter. So it's back to using a small hacksaw and then deburring tool.

 

Even so, I can still do these neatly to within a few mm tolerance.  I guess having a few mm copper exposed is the best compromise.

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